Elgin is ok stuff.. I am not a fan of Comps cast roller cores, had one laying around I was gonna make a lamp out of.
15k miles and went flat.
I think a custom cam isnt needed, too many times youll get one "thats close" which will turn out to be a catalog cam anyways.
had great luck with Crower and Isky....sure either one of those will make good power. Put a little work to those heads it will really run.
Dont need a ton of cam with the valve angle and efficiency of the Ls line regardless of flow #s
Keep us posted

 

Consult with Mike Jones of Jones Cam Designs, he is known as CamKing at speedtalk and yellow bullet forums. Since you already have a sloppy stage cam and want more power, the things he can do with his inverse radius flank lobes is amazing, very common to get you much more area under the curve without adding to seat to seat duration. If I were you, I'd spend the extra 100 bucks for the custom grind from literally one of the best v8 cam designers in the world bro. He has done prototype work for nissan, nascar, and others. You do not get the priveledge of doing that work at that level unless you are at the top of your profession.

Most combos are cammed wrong and no offense but it usually happens when guys start asking what everyone else is using for a similar combo, you don't need a cam that works in their car, you need one that works for your car, your intended use. Go to his site, fill out the two page questionnaire and then follow his recommendation up with a telephone call, he can do a decent cam that meets your goals, and exceeds them, is easy on valve train parts, or he can grind something for max power that is high maintenance and will require more monitoring of valve springs, lash, etc. The key is to be brutally honest about what you have, how it will be used, and how much maintenance work you expect to do once it is installed. Give him a shot, I have not heard one single person regret buying one of his cams, he really is one of the best!

 

Grats on cam, now with the money saved what are you planning next? Bandits cam sounded good. though I only heard a short audio clip at cold start.

 

I did a build thread on the motor. Here.

I have to pay for a FAST 102 somehow

 

I make 750bhp with a stock LM7 + TFS-30602001 + PAC1218 at 16psi of intake manifold pressure on an LS1 intake (not good) using OEM exhaust manifolds to drive a S364 (small turbo).

I have 38,000 miles on it since 2017 , its my daily driver. I recommend keeping the lift down to a minimum for longevity, and using a slow ramp to keep the lifter happy and control the valve at high RPM.

But you need a turbocharger.... $0.02 (turbo it)

 

As fun as turbo's are I have no interest in messing with an intercooler and all the extra pipe that goes along with a turbo build. I think 400 to 425 at the wheels NA and then a 200 shot of nitrous will give me everything I need.

 

Weren't you banned from LS1tech for being completely full of sh*t about absolutely everything?

 

That 4l80e honestly is the monster holding you back then. Without a turbo I recommend you consider building your own 4l60e to reduce the rotating mass of drivetrain components and free up some power and acceleration of the shafts is easier. It can be done for sub 750hp easily. Dana at probuilt (700r4l60e.com) or clinebarger are two other options if you just wanted to buy a good one instead. And there is at least 1 other great builder but you already know who.

 

I Was banned for telling a mod that PCV helps keep oil inside an engine. And it does.

U mad brah?

I post on 15 other forums and LStech is the only place that ever banned me for being accurate. Where is your PhD In mechanical engineering brah?

 

Did you just use "brah" in a sentence? Do you wear a flat brim hat?

 

Funny you mention this, considering it was what my full-ride scholarship was for lmao.

I absolutely 100% implore everyone here to take anything Kingtal0n says with a grain of salt.
He claims he's had a turbo LS since 2017, but in 2017 he was asking people what an OBD port looked like on LS1tech.
His name has become synonymous there with both trolling and being completely full of it.

He's been banned since 2019 and calling someone a kingtal0n there is still used as an insult.

 

Makes sense now, the 4l80e seems a great choice since it will handle all the torque Phobos will throw at it without upgrading any internals. If driveline recommendations are in order why not a carbon fiber driveshaft instead of custom trans. Less expensive and cooler to talk about....Of course i'm fine with aluminum also.

 

What I like about the 4L80e over a built 4L60e is the fact that when I destroy it by doing something stupid I can just go get another one. I don't have to be easy on it. It I break it I'm only out $200.

I didn't even go aluminum on the driveshaft. I had a 4130 moly steel shaft made with 1350 forged yokes. By the time you get a 4L80e into a C4 the new driveshaft is so short going with aluminum would have only saved me a pound. It just didn't seem worth it.

 

Nod, I was just going along with the troll. Reading your build thread now. Cheers,

 

You are 100% correct on Jones, I've talked about Cam theory a few times with him. I can not believe that people will skimp on one of the most critical part of what defines the way a engine runs. I would add Mike to that list of people on cam design. I checked on retail pricing and a cam is close with shipping to $500 but its not a cast cam. They are 8620L billets. I am building a 496 big block for my 1980 corvette in another thread. I needed a bigger event to feed that engine, but wanted good manors so I changed Lobe separation Angle to 114 The final cam was a 226 232 114
What I think both of us are saying it do not scrimp on a cam
We have a 2010 CTS V we play with, It is a daily driver for a 75-year-old lawyer. He goes with us to the Texas Mile twice a year. It runs 205 mph every run with ease. The cam I did for it was unusual but very effective. Its a zero lash 223 230 119 LSA in at 114. Notice the 119 LSA. It gives it good daily manors. It may appear small, but this cam is much bigger than it appears. The intake closing is very late and captures air. The exhaust opening is early effectively starting blowdown. The two most important event numbers on a cam are open of exhaust and close of intake. I also do not turn the blower as hard, relying on turning the motor harder and moving the same amount of air.

 

Meh, cams are generic. Every engine has one. There is no mystery or magic needed for a daily or street racer (pros and cons to everything). Budgets are usually a deciding factor. Do you I want two parts or one part for the same amount of dollars for example. You are right that you can engineer better performance tailored for exact needs with custom anything but that should deserve an added labor cost. If you read Phobos build thread you would understand his decision criteria better and get a really good laugh. I think he has some talent with words and pictures.

 

Thank you!

 

Do what we did in the late 60's, choose the first one on the list that stated - not recommended for street use.

 

This is the best advice yet!

 

Or do like the ls guys do, pick a stage 5.2 bottom of the page cam cause it sounded good on a cold start clip keep the 2.73 gear "for mileage" then complain it doesnt make power, bucks when in 2nd lugging it in the parking lot. Yup hot rod! lol