Lots of great ideas on this thread. Hows it coming?

 

Well not too much new. I got the headers in. I bolted them up just to see what they looked like.




So tonight I got the oil pan on. I went with a C6 LS2 pan. It was a little expensive but the Camaro LS1 pan I have in the car now sits about a half an inch below the crossmember. The C6 pan is a inch shorter than the Camaro pan. To use this pan you need a pickup tube and windage tray for it. All in all not too bad.





So I was looking at the oil float switch in this pan. The Camaro pan has one too. But what caught my eye was the fact that the C6 float has 3 wires. The Camaro float only has 2. So at first I thought it was just a normally open and a normally closed contact with a shared common. But the multimeter proved me wrong. It does have a normally open contact and the other pin is a oil temp sensor. It seems to work as a basic thermistor. So I may at some point down the road feed that to gauge. I would probably have to adapt the signal using one of those ebay gauge converter boxes. They sell them for fuel level gauges but they work for basically anything that uses ohms. As long as you can pass ground through it.

So other than a few finishing touches there isn't much more until I'm ready to drop it in. I just got done installing a full Intellitronix gauge set. Also I have been thoroughly enjoying burning the tires off the car this summer/fall and just generally beating the crap out of the LS6 and the 4L80e. I can't wait to get this 6.0L in there though.

 

So in anticipation for the new motor I figured I would put new gauges in the car. Years ago I put some very cheap ebay gauges in. To put it into perceptive as to how cheap the ebay gauges were I paid $150 for the full set. That included speedo (with gps sender) tach, oil pressure, water temp, volts and 0-90 ohm fuel level. So for the money I have to say I was impressed. They kind of worked. They were slow to respond, and the oil pressure and water temp were way off. But if nothing else it would tell me if it in fact had oil pressure or not.

Anyway I got a set of little dash LED's. This included turn signals, high beam indicator, battery, oil, temp, brake, and check engine. I finally got all these wired and working. The turn signals and high beam indicator were easy. Then I used the fan #2 output from the Holley to run the over temp light. I used the float switch in the oil pan with an Arduino programmed as a basic 10 second on delay timer to turn on the oil light if it ever ran low. I wired up the parking brake switch to the brake light. Lastly I configured a Holley output to blink the check engine light if oil pressure dropped below 15 psi, fuel pressure dropped below 52 psi, trans temp is over 200 deg, AFR is over 15:1.

Then I splurged and got a set of new gauges from Intellitronix. It took over 2 months to get them. I had to use an in line resistor to get there oil pressure gauge to read properly. But other than that the quality is very good. I did have a little trouble with the speedo. The Holley ECU will only output a -PWM signal for a speedometer. The Intellitronix needs a +PWM (square wave) or you can use raw VSS signal. I had to tie into the VSS and do it that way.







You can see in the picture that the check engine and battery lights are on because the engine wasn't running.

Sorry the pictures are so blurry. I couldn't get my camera to focus.

Not that any of this has anything to do with my LS build. But I kind of feel that if you are going to make power in a street car you need accurate gauges. That and if anyone is considering an LS swap in general it's nice to look and see how other people overcame obstacles like gauges.

 

Nice work. Gotta do whatcha gotta do. An OEM 6k rpm tach isn't going to cut it with pretty much any cammed LS. My swap car has the sheet metal cluster insert and Marshall gauges. Not perfect but looks decent and they are functional.

 

Well sorry it took so long. But I finally got all my other cars fixed for the winter. And I got all my other projects out of the way...well most of them anyway. That and I took a break from 3D printing guns. I mean how many basement built Glock 17's does one man need anyway. So I started pulling the old LS6.



A buddy came over and helped me get the hood off. Then I started un-plugging stuff. So last night I managed to get all the electrical connectors off, the fluids drained and the headers off.






These headers worked well but I just outgrew them. I bought way bigger long tubes that will be replacing them. But if anyone is looking for a cheap set of LS swap headers that will fit a C4 these will be up for sale soon. They are from the now out of business Street & Performance. 1 5/8" primary 2 1/2" collector and they were Jet Hot coated. I have never had good luck with ceramic coating on headers. So that's why my new set is stainless. But these are still solid and could be cleaned up and used again.

Tonight I'm going to support the transmission on the jack plate on my lift so it wont fall and then start pulling converter and bell housing bolts. My goal is to have it ready to pull by the end of the night. I only have an hour or two after work to mess with it until Christmas break starts. That's when most of the work will get done. The big issue with this isn't getting the new motor in. It's up sizing the exhaust and fuel system. But I can't do either of those things without the new motor in place.

 

Well I got to the point in my Christmas vacation were I am board to tears. So that means work getting done on the car again. Got the motor pulled.




Then I got the old fuel lines pulled out today. I never realized how much of a PITA getting the factory fuel lines out is with the Dana 44 still in the car. I'm glad I didn't have to be nice about it. And I'm glad that flexible hose is going back in. Next I need to figure out what I did wrong with my fuel sending unit. I fabbed it up to hold the new 450 pump. But when I dropped it in the tank it's hitting something. I kind of got frustrated and called it good for the night. There's not much gas in the tank. I might have to drain it out and then steal my kids GoPro to set inside the tank so I can figure out what it's hitting.

On a side note take a look at my old sending unit. This is a Walbro 255. I can't believe it's this rusty and still works.

 

So next I'm gonna clean up some wiring. I'm waiting on the 6an and 8an fuel lines and fittings. I also ordered a flex sensor and fittings for it. I have to solder a 10K ohm resistor in the input harness for the flex sensor so the Holley ECU can read it. I should have all that done by this weekend. Oh and I need to up the wire and relay size for the new pump. I'm running 10awg all the way back and going to get a 50 amp relay. Once I get the fuel system all hashed out then the LQ9 can go in. I still need to learn how to tune with E85. Looks like there are lots of YouTube videos on the subject.

 

So I got the flex sensor and the harness in the mail today.



So I'm going to use this on the return line instead of the feed. I know it's a bit of a debate. But lots of people have used flex sensors on the return and had very good results. So I'm going to give it a try. This way it won't restrict the feed line at all. This sensor is for a 3/8 fuel line. I'm using a -6an for my return so that's close enough. Anyway I need a way to mount the sensor. I saw a couple options online. But why spend money if I don't have to. So I'm 3d printing a mount. Also I need to solder a 10k ohm resistor into the flex harness. This is so the Holley ECU can read the signal. So I'm also printing a small enclosure for the resistor.



So this is what I came up with. I have a mount for the sensor and a small box with a lid. I'll fill the box with epoxy once the resistor is in there and soldered. I'm going to try and make these out of PETG. For those that don't know this type of plastic is similar to what pop bottles are made out of. I only have a little left however so it might not make it. If I run out mid print I'll switch it over to ABS and re-print. I hate working with ABS but I have a bunch of it. Either way both PETG and ABS are very good at dealing with heat.

The only reason my printer is open at the moment is I ran out of guns I want to print.




I do so love making guns in my basement.

Anyway I'll post some pics of the mount and the enclosure when there done. The slicer tells me they will take 6 hours.

 

I really like that you are printing your own guns. Very nice!

That flex fuel sensor is the same unit (and basic configuration) that I use on my C6TT.

 

Yeah printing guns get addictive. I'm not even a Glock guy. Their just so easy to print and build I can't stop They keep multiplying.

 

So this is what came off my printer.




The flex sensor clicks into the base and a zip tie holds it to the mount. Then the little box will hold the resistor and will get potted. I plan on mounting both of these on the top of the brace that runs between the radiator and the front of the motor. My return fuel line comes off the fuel rail on the front of the motor on the drivers side. So the return line needs to cross the engine bay anyway to get to the passenger side. So I think that's a good spot.

 

Well it turns out that I have a 3 day weekend ahead of me. I get MLK day off work. Now here in PA it's supposed to get super cold this weekend. But I don't think that will stop me. So I figured tonight I would make a dent in the fuel system.

First I had to fix my sending unit. It was hitting something inside the tank. Probably the plastic tray at the bottom. So I had to re-weld a few things.




It dosn't look like much. But it holds the pump and should work just fine.

Next I routed and mounted the fuel lines. I had to fab a mount for the new filter.



I cut some old exhaust tubing and welded feet on it. Then I painted it with a bake on epoxy paint. I'll throw another clamp on it but one will hold it for now.

Then I used some stock steel and some pieces of old brake line to fab some fuel line hangers.

 

So then I moved on to figuring out the flex fuel situation. To use a GM flex sensor with a Holley ECU you need to use a 10K ohm resistor. If I understand it this is to help protect the sensor. If you skip it you may burn out the sensor. This is a very crude napkin style doodle of the schematic that I needed.



So I terminated the short wires on the plug that came with my flex sensor inside of the 3D printed box I made for it.




So after I had everything soldered and shrink wrapped I filled the box with glue and put the lid on. So it's fully potted and shouldn't be able to move inside the box at all. Then I labeled my wires so I know whats what. I really only need to run 3 wires to it so it's not too bad.




This is my box plugged into the sensor. A bit later tonight I'm probably going to finish wiring the pump relay and run the wires for the flex sensor. I'm waiting for a new fuse holder to come in the mail so I can't get all the wiring done tonight.

 

So the list for this weekend is as follows.

- bead blast and powder coat the LS swap adapter plates
- finish fuel system wiring including flex sensor input to ecu
- lower the new motor in and bolt it in
- start modifying the C5 headers I have so they fit
- order parts...this is why credit cards exist right?

 

So last night I started putting belt driven accessories on the new motor. So fun fact, LS1/LS6 blocks have threaded mounting holes for accessories that LQ9 blocks don't.

This is the aluminum block



This is the LQ9 block.

These holes on the LS6 are were I mounted my belt tensioner. So I was kind of screwed. I ended up drilling and tapping the mound on the iron block that looks like they just didn't drill it on the truck motors. I tapped it for M10x1.5mm. But I have no idea what to do for the 3rd bolt, being there is no boss for it in the block. I guess two bolts will just have to be good enough.



I didn't take a picture but with two bolts it seems very solid. Also I'm still playing with belt spacing on the alternator. On mine, the alternator bolts to the water pump. Being that this is an LS3 water pump the spacing on the pump is different and the accessory tabs on the pump also have different spacing. So I'm using stacks of hardware store washers until I get it spaced properly. Then I'll measure how thick a spacer I need and machine one, but I can't get that quite right until I get the balancer on. That will be for today.

 

Thanks for the flex fuel info. I have a holley hp and was thinking of this project some time.

 

Sure thing. I want to point out though that you only need the 10K ohm resistor with a Holley ECU. If you are using another brand or a GM PCM you will need to wire it differently. I got this info from the Holley forums. So you'll be fine doing it this way but if someone else finds this thread I just want to point out that this is a Holley only sort of thing.

 

Well last night I hit a small snag because I screwed up. I went to pull the crank pulley off of the LS6 so I could swap it onto the new motor. At that moment my air compressor decided that it didn't want to work in the cold anymore so I had to use a breaker bar to brake the bolt loose. Well of course the motor spins when I try and take off the bolt. So I do what any redneck would do. I jam a pry bar in one of the openings in the flex plate to stop the motor from spinning. Well this worked just fine.....except I bent my flex plate. Yeah I'm an idiot. Anyway I just so happen to have a huge pile of random 5.3 and 6.0 truck motor parts laying around. I found another flex plate that was identical to the one I bent. I even found the bolts to go with it so crises averted.

So I got the F-body crank pulley on the new motor after baking it in the oven at 210 deg for an hour. I also used a propane torch just on the inner opening on the pulley just to make sure it would fit. So it pressed right on by hand when hot enough. I used an old bolt to make sure it was seated all the way.

Then I used a heat gun to get my compressor going again. The pilot line froze. Anyway I used the impact to pull the pulley bolt out. I added blue thread locker and then I used the impact to run the bolt back in until It stopped turning. For those of you that don't know that is the proper torque spec. When a 3/4" impact can't turn it anymore then it's tight enough.

Then it was time to lower the beast in. So this is what happened today.









Before I quit I got the motor lowered in and 3 bell housing bolts in. The motor mount plates were powder coated and bolted on the new motor yesterday.

 

Well I found two problems after I set the motor in.

1st I accidentally crushed one of the trans cooler lines when I lowered the motor in. This is the issue with doing things like this alone. All my friends are either too lazy to help or they work 70 hours a week so having help isn't an option and one person can't see everything at once.

2nd The notch I cut in the crossmember for the F-body oil pan isn't deep enough for the LS2 pan. The front of the pan clears the crossmember. But there is only the thickness of a zip tie between them. I'm afraid that when the motor revs that cast pan will hit the crossmember.

So the motor has to come back out. I have more than enough -6an braided steel line to replace the trans line that I crushed. Then I'll have to cut out the plate I welded in the crossmember and weld in a piece of angle iron instead. This will give me the clearance I need.

What sucks is that the clearance issue is directly in front of the pan. Now in my mind I think "The motor can't rock forward." So it could be OK. But I can't leave it that way. It doesn't give me a warm fuzzy feeling. So I guess I know what I'm doing this weekend.

I'll see if I can get some pictures of the issue when I get home.

 

Sorry I didn't update this when I said I was going to. But I got frustrated and took a couple days off. So I didn't get a good picture of how close the C6 oil pan was to the crossmember. What I did though was I pulled the motor back out. Then I cut out the old patch I welded in back with the LS6 using the Camaro oil pan. The C6 pan was almost touching the center of the flat plate I put in. So I didn't need to cut the hole in the crossmember any bigger. What I needed to do is weld in a piece of angle instead of bar stock. So it makes a step.





Being that I have coil overs in the front I don't have a mono spring to worry about. So I have all the room in the world to work with. But if you're reading this thread and you encountered the same problem you might want to get different motor mount's to raise the motor up. But for me I like to weld and without a mono spring I can make what I have work.

So it's 15 deg in my garage right now. So once the heater can get the temp up a bit I'm going to drop the motor back in and hopefully everything will line up. The crushed transmission hose I mentioned earlier, being that it's steel braided PTFE a quick pinch with a pair of pliers seems to have fixed that. It looks good as new.