When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From: NNCC No Name Car Crew; Owned 1 C2, 2 C3's, 1 C4, 3 C5's, 1 C6, 2 C7's; Now '86, '03; S. DE
2024 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Wnner - Unmodified
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '21-'22-'23-'24-'25-'26
Originally Posted by Natty C
Yeah, no. I'm not gonna let some regulator tell me how often and how far I can drive my car.
I'd rather just fix the problems.
Do you for one moment think that is enforced? Just register it as an antique and keep your regular tag, and you don't have to display an antique tag. You can get an estimated bill from an authorized mechanic registered with the state, if the cost to fix exceeds the cost of what the state thinks it will be, it can be waived. Lots of legal ways you can get around that, just have to research the DMV regs for antique vehicles.
Back to being harassed with antique tags. Lots of excuses you can use, I'm getting gas, just worked on it, checking to see how it runs, have to put air in the tires, and on and on.
Also with antique tags, no more yearly tag fees (free) while owning vehicle, no more inspections. If using as a daily driver, then forget about it.
Hmm none of those hoses are easy to get to let alone did they have a procedure for a 27 yo car. I was thinking a pressure tester on the filler neck. I guess I have to crack open the fsm to see it there's any info. But my old dog who is going to puppy heaven on Friday is covering that particular outlet that powers that particle light on my particular reading light. Hang tight there will be some more comments.
I already replaced the bad hose. It was pretty obvious that it was bad. It was dry rotted and split all to heck.
I'll replace the rest of them after it passes.
Sorry to read about your dog. I sure have been there and done that.
It's a pressure tester at the filter neck. So maybe a leak down means it's venting. It could be a split hose. Not so bad. A leaky purge solenoid or a cracked canister. ?
From the form, those appear to be two completely different tests. There's a generic brake system test (the top 'PASS') and a more in-depth safety inspection (the bottom 'FAIL').
so I guess the passed the ricers with the cut springs and all the other stoopid **** they do......and yes at that age we were all young, dumb and full off ***.....lol
I am so glad I don't have to go through that crap down here in Texas. With my 84 they get in it, hit the horn, drive it about 15 mph, hit the brakes and then pull it into the bay and check the wipers, lights, signals. Done. I spend way more time there answering questions about the LS swap than what is spent on the inspection.
Does one of their technicians run your car through the brake test or do you?
The reason I ask is that I had a similar experience years ago when registering a kit car up here in CT. I saw the car before me fail because his brakes didn't grab at the same time. I knew my car (a VW bug based kit w/ drum brakes) wasn't going to do well. My father was with me at the time and he said "when you drive over the pad, hit the brakes hard."
He was right, and I passed just fine. If I had gently applied the brakes, I would bet anything that one would grab before the others. But if you hit hard, they all grab pretty close to the same time.
So if you get to run your car through, hit 'em hard. If a tech runs it through and he babies the brakes, tell him to do it again and step on the pedal like a man.
... or maybe choose to say something less inflammatory. Either way though, keep your eye on them.
I guess I'm unfamiliar with state inspections from other states. This is insane! So they test brake performance and they pressurize your gas tank? I've never heard of such a thing. This is nuts.
I thought it was bad that here in PA they scrutinize every rust hole in the frame. Then they complain when you weld them shut.
Does one of their technicians run your car through the brake test or do you?
The reason I ask is that I had a similar experience years ago when registering a kit car up here in CT. I saw the car before me fail because his brakes didn't grab at the same time. I knew my car (a VW bug based kit w/ drum brakes) wasn't going to do well. My father was with me at the time and he said "when you drive over the pad, hit the brakes hard."
He was right, and I passed just fine. If I had gently applied the brakes, I would bet anything that one would grab before the others. But if you hit hard, they all grab pretty close to the same time.
So if you get to run your car through, hit 'em hard. If a tech runs it through and he babies the brakes, tell him to do it again and step on the pedal like a man.
... or maybe choose to say something less inflammatory. Either way though, keep your eye on them.
No, we drive it through ourselves. We get up to speed and don't hit the brakes until they yell STOP!
Any reason you can't just go back to the inspection station and ask them to interpret the report to you?
Aside fro mthe confusion of it, it didn't really matter. Brakes needed servicing regardless. So, that's what I did all day. It's out of the way for a couple of more years anyway.
When I ran it through today, though, the technician said that the brakes should have been recorded as failed the first time around. But the notation at the bottom of the previous inspection report about brake failure also served as an inspection failure.
But I suppose the flip side of it is that if you can pass a DE inspection in one of these old cars, it's in good shape overall.
Just as an aside, I didn't let the car heat up either time. I ran it through cold both times. The inspection lane is only a few miles down the road. So only a few minutes drive.
There's another hose in the evaporation line from the tank to the canister you need to check. It is under the car, on the Left side,just inboard of where all the brake lines go up into the car for the ABS module. It is a rubber line about 3" long. The vapor line is contained with the brake line bundle from the front of the car, then the little rubber hose connection to the hard line that goes up to the tank. If the hose in the engine compartment was rotten, this one may be too.
On the next inspection, if it doesn't pass, be sure you understand the report. Ask the tech exactly what the failure(s) were. Take the time to understand. It's your problem to fix it, but you can't fix it if you don't know what failed or what is being checked.
Thanks. I replaced that one you're talking about this morning. I knew about that one, it was in the FSM. It wasn't actually bad as far as being disintegrated like the one up front that connects to the pipe going to the tank pressure control valve, but it was dry rotted.
I'm just glad those hoses were the problem because I just installed that fuel tank a few weeks ago and I was sweating it, wondering if I half-assed sa connection in there some place.
Ended up replacing all of the hoses coming to and from the canister while I was in there.
Your previous thought on it was correct. The notation on the bottom meant the brakes failed. It should have been labeled FAIL in the top section of the first section.
