C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

replacing LT1 front engine seals

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Old Aug 30, 2021 | 05:09 PM
  #21  
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OK Taking the mounting bolts for the steering rack gave me enough room to get the balancer on
No need to remove it. Though getting the wrong way bolt on the driver's side out with the cooler in the way was fun

I'll check the belt alignment with an old belt before I button everything up.
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Old Sep 5, 2021 | 04:42 PM
  #22  
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OK, glad I checked the belt alignment
The balancer is WAY too far out.
Explains what I had to loosen the rack to put it on.
I'll have to take it all apart and see if something got stuck inside.


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Old Sep 5, 2021 | 07:08 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
OK, glad I checked the belt alignment
The balancer is WAY too far out.
Explains what I had to loosen the rack to put it on.
I'll have to take it all apart and see if something got stuck inside.

I am with you on that. I once had a ball bearing, real tiny one get behind the hub. Caused a bit of an alignment issue with the Opti, as it was behind the lower timing chain gear on the crankshaft.
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Old Sep 6, 2021 | 01:00 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
OK, glad I checked the belt alignment
The balancer is WAY too far out.
Explains what I had to loosen the rack to put it on.
I'll have to take it all apart and see if something got stuck inside.

Dude. That looks like a situation where if you move that pulley back much further to be in line with the belt drive accessories, it's going to be close to hitting the Opti no? How much gap do you have to the Opti now, and how much further back does that pulley need to move? If there's not enough clearance...

That looks to me like one where you'd want to check with the guys that modified that hub for this application and make sure that the pulley is the right one. It's possible that there's nothing interfering with the fit on that hub now and that's as far back as you're going to get it, which implies a different pulley setup is needed...

If so this saves you the trouble of having to pull everything off and find that there's nothing interfering with that hub at all.
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Old Sep 6, 2021 | 07:00 PM
  #25  
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Same balancer & adapter that's been on there' for 10 years.

It's should be TIGHT against the opti.
May a 1/16 in clearance.
Here is what it should look like
Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
Here's a pic before it was installed in the car.



I took the balancer & adapter off.
DIdn't see anything, though I definitely didn't clean the keyways enough on the adapter.

Here's a couple of picks I took



I poked around being careful not to mess up the seal, I hope.
I put the adapter back on, seemed to go on further.
I'll know when I get the balancer back on.

Last edited by BrianCunningham; Sep 6, 2021 at 07:01 PM.
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Old Sep 10, 2021 | 06:33 PM
  #26  
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OK that lines up better



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Old Sep 14, 2021 | 02:24 PM
  #27  
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When I put the waterpump back on I rerouted the lower vent line so that 1) it doesn't interfere with the waterpump bolts 2) the moisture that gets pulled out of the opti does not go back in via gravity


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Old Sep 14, 2021 | 02:30 PM
  #28  
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I mocked up the supercharger and its mount to make sure the clocking was correct because this time I plan on installing both together



When I took the supercharger off I was stopped from removing it as a unit with the mount by the drain line.

The only way to remove it was to unbolt the supercharger from the mount, which in the car was a real PITA!

So, this time I attached a pigtail line, I cutback the exiting line and use a coupler so it can be installed/removed as a unit.





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Old Sep 27, 2021 | 03:54 PM
  #29  
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Got everything hooked up save the radiator.
Fires up, but the idle is ROUGH
The "Service Engine" light comes on ( well there's no radiator)
I did check the codes, only fault was (H43 Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit)
Some of the connections from the MAF to the throttle are on, but not TIGHT, so I can move them to get the radiator in.
I also rerouted the opti vent, so I'll check those.

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Old Sep 29, 2021 | 05:24 PM
  #30  
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Rough idle was just a vacuum leak, not to mention all the junk in there.

Got the intake for the blower clocked so I can put the radiator back in.

I'll do the O2 sensors after it all buttoned up.

Last edited by BrianCunningham; Sep 29, 2021 at 05:24 PM.
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Old Oct 11, 2021 | 05:23 PM
  #31  
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Back up and running.
Took it for a spin, still has trouble under load (rich)
But I wanted to take it for a spin before replacing the O2's
burped the system, and of course there's always one hose clamp that needs to be tightened down more.

Last edited by BrianCunningham; Oct 11, 2021 at 05:24 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 04:26 PM
  #32  
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I FINALLY got it running right!

After ordering a new cable, I put a datalogger on it.
Turned out the MAF was reading way to high at idle.

On a draw through MAF car, the bypass valve is supposed to open and recirculate unused air back into the supercharger so that's it's not counted. That wasn't happening.

Checked for vacuum leaks, had a few, but was really killing it was all the goop forced into under pressure. I cleaned it up, the MAF reading dropped, and now it's not fouling the plugs.

Took it for a drive yesterday, you can't believe how good that felt.



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Old Jul 18, 2022 | 09:59 AM
  #33  
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Awesome!

Good find on the By-Pass Valve


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