When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
OK Taking the mounting bolts for the steering rack gave me enough room to get the balancer on
No need to remove it. Though getting the wrong way bolt on the driver's side out with the cooler in the way was fun
I'll check the belt alignment with an old belt before I button everything up.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
OK, glad I checked the belt alignment
The balancer is WAY too far out.
Explains what I had to loosen the rack to put it on.
I'll have to take it all apart and see if something got stuck inside.
OK, glad I checked the belt alignment
The balancer is WAY too far out.
Explains what I had to loosen the rack to put it on.
I'll have to take it all apart and see if something got stuck inside.
I am with you on that. I once had a ball bearing, real tiny one get behind the hub. Caused a bit of an alignment issue with the Opti, as it was behind the lower timing chain gear on the crankshaft.
OK, glad I checked the belt alignment
The balancer is WAY too far out.
Explains what I had to loosen the rack to put it on.
I'll have to take it all apart and see if something got stuck inside.
Dude. That looks like a situation where if you move that pulley back much further to be in line with the belt drive accessories, it's going to be close to hitting the Opti no? How much gap do you have to the Opti now, and how much further back does that pulley need to move? If there's not enough clearance...
That looks to me like one where you'd want to check with the guys that modified that hub for this application and make sure that the pulley is the right one. It's possible that there's nothing interfering with the fit on that hub now and that's as far back as you're going to get it, which implies a different pulley setup is needed...
If so this saves you the trouble of having to pull everything off and find that there's nothing interfering with that hub at all.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Same balancer & adapter that's been on there' for 10 years.
It's should be TIGHT against the opti.
May a 1/16 in clearance.
Here is what it should look like
Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
Here's a pic before it was installed in the car.
I took the balancer & adapter off.
DIdn't see anything, though I definitely didn't clean the keyways enough on the adapter.
Here's a couple of picks I took
I poked around being careful not to mess up the seal, I hope.
I put the adapter back on, seemed to go on further.
I'll know when I get the balancer back on.
Last edited by BrianCunningham; Sep 6, 2021 at 07:01 PM.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
When I put the waterpump back on I rerouted the lower vent line so that 1) it doesn't interfere with the waterpump bolts 2) the moisture that gets pulled out of the opti does not go back in via gravity
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Got everything hooked up save the radiator.
Fires up, but the idle is ROUGH
The "Service Engine" light comes on ( well there's no radiator)
I did check the codes, only fault was (H43 Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit)
Some of the connections from the MAF to the throttle are on, but not TIGHT, so I can move them to get the radiator in.
I also rerouted the opti vent, so I'll check those.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Back up and running.
Took it for a spin, still has trouble under load (rich)
But I wanted to take it for a spin before replacing the O2's
burped the system, and of course there's always one hose clamp that needs to be tightened down more.
Last edited by BrianCunningham; Oct 11, 2021 at 05:24 PM.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
I FINALLY got it running right!
After ordering a new cable, I put a datalogger on it.
Turned out the MAF was reading way to high at idle.
On a draw through MAF car, the bypass valve is supposed to open and recirculate unused air back into the supercharger so that's it's not counted. That wasn't happening.
Checked for vacuum leaks, had a few, but was really killing it was all the goop forced into under pressure. I cleaned it up, the MAF reading dropped, and now it's not fouling the plugs.
Took it for a drive yesterday, you can't believe how good that felt.