When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
replacing LT1 front engine seals
Got the car apart.
Last time I did this, I did it w/o removing the front cover.
I really wanted to do it that way again, as removing the front cover in my case would mean dropping the road race pan
On my searches I found this.
It's on a Camaro, and on the earlier opti drive, but some good tips
A sharpie for a seal installer, I never would have thought of that.
Not sure about a screw in the top seal
there's a slot, but that gave me trouble last time.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
I thought the pistons were cracked, but then I looked at the valve reliefs
The only thing I can think of is that I lost ignition one some of the cylinders which caused a RICH condition, the computer tried leaning it out, which caused what happened to the other cylinders.
Putting a new cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
I'll do the O2's as well and see what happens when I fire it up.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
OK so I want to turn the engine slightly to take more pics
Before I do that I need to put the hub mount back on.
Before I do that I want to put the opti back on.
Before I to that I need to tear it down, clean it, and put a new cap & rotor on it.
So, teardown of an 8 year old MSD opti that's been CAKED in oil.
Oil soaked cap. looks like normal wear
fouled connections
rotor wear
I didn't think anything got in there till I took the separator out.
Drenched
cleaned up
The optical wheels comes out. the FRONT is marked
I think the smaller screws that come with the kit are for the STOCK rotor
Reused the old screws with some LOCKTIGHT
Yeah, I got a lot out.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
The "cap off" method worked installing the opti
a little dab of gasket maker kept the o-ring in place so I could install the cap.
Put the lower vent line (suction) on before installing the cap.
Yes, the balancer adapter isn't on all the way.
I installed it just enough so that bring the pin in the cam to the top.
If you put it on all the way, the shaft coming from the opti into the cam is a real PITA to get in there. I'll fully install that next.
Then I'll get the plugs & wires installed.
I'll temporarily hook up the coil & see it it will fire up before putting reinstalling the waterpump and the supercharger.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
I had someone else build the engine.
Here's the hub adapter and the bolt that goes into the crank with the thick washer.
Can someone explain to be how this is suppose to hold the hub adapter and with it the balancer on?
Did not know they made a damper to bolt onto the stock (type/modified) hub-Cool.
"Can someone explain to me how this is suppose to hold the hub adapter and with it the balancer on?"
How was it when assembled? Do you mean for re-assembly?
The hub is a press fit, and I have heard over the years people having that bolt be loose, and hub was still tight.
My Hub has the bolt and keyway as Callies cut it for their 3.85 inch stroke in my 396.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
OK I didn't realize fixing my car was going to involved irradiating the honet's nest under my tool box!
I laid down 250lb of asphalt so, hopefully, they don't come back.
After all that, I tried getting the balancer back onto the hub adapter.
It came off with the steering rack in place, but it looks as though I need to at least loosen in to get it back on.
All I need is 1/4 inch!
In the process I found that the mechanic who upgraded my rack put all the bolts in from the bottom. Funny I though the bolts were suppose to go in from the top in case the nut falls off.
Last edited by BrianCunningham; Aug 30, 2021 at 11:52 AM.
replacing LT1 front engine seals
.
