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Which IC is used in the 1989 ECU? I am thinking it is the 27C128. Is this true? Are there other Proms that can be used in it's place? I would like to buy either the stock PROM or something updated to work with.
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Stew is leading you the right direction. Use the chip he linked -- by burning it with one of these. Then, plug it "onto" this chip (PROM) socket adapter - which replaces your stock PROM. From that point on, you can alter and "burn" your own PROMs. Of course, you'll also need an ALDL cable and a laptop...and a lot of patience! LOL
Note that you don't need to use Moates's burner if you don't want to. TunerPro includes a BIN Stacker built right in that lets you stack the EPROM contents so that you can get the offsets right (essentially, if the BIN is 64k and the chip is 128k, it just writes the 64k twice).
So if using Tuner Pro, what is the interface for the IC to the computer? The Moates Burn 2 provides a ZIF socket to USB connection to the computer if I'm not mistaken. What am I missing?
From: Liliha Bakery stuffing my face with coco puffs!
Might be a lack of understanding of the expectations. All the Burn 2 does is read/write to the EEPROMs nothing more. Use your 1320 to collect data through the aldl port, using the data alter bin accordingly with "tunerpro", burn the new bin with "Flash and Burn" w Burn 2 to your EEPROM and repeat.
If you wanted to venture down the real time emulation, need to look at Moates APU1 or Ostrich 2.0. TBH, for me it's only proven useful for dialing in idle meaning sit there, clean it up and flash. All the other times, I've just data logged, parked, manipulate values, upload new bin and repeat process. With the Ostrich 2.0, it can be left hooked up and driven daily but that's something that I would never do. Some have complained of connection issues. I just prefer to dial everything in to my liking and at the end of tuning session burn latest modified bin to an EEPROM.
So if using Tuner Pro, what is the interface for the IC to the computer? The Moates Burn 2 provides a ZIF socket to USB connection to the computer if I'm not mistaken. What am I missing?
Went
You misunderstand. I’m just saying that if you already have a cheap Chinese chip burner or something, you don’t need to shell out for a BURN2 just to use their software. If you’ve never burned a chip before, feel free to go with their stuff just to take some of the guesswork out.
i just meant that the “offset” problem can be handled by TunerPro, after which you can burn the BIN to a chip using any chip burner on the planet.
I use Moates stuff. Make sure when burning chips that you use the correct offset. As I first had errors as I used the offset that the program popped up. And then I found out you have to change the offset. I took a screen shot and saved it so I could remember what to set it to as sometimes it resets.
Check this link out and you want the offset from the "16k (16384)" and "27SF512" row. If you don't use the correct offsets, your burns or rips will give you an error:
From: Liliha Bakery stuffing my face with coco puffs!
Originally Posted by Went
I ordered the Moate's Burn2 programmer module and the G1 module.
Went
I think you're all set up! Just need to get over the next hurdle of making sense of the data and knowing what to change. One other thing, assuming you have a mail order tune, it would be nice to know what was changed on that bin. Easy if your tuner had equipped you with the G1 and the modified PROM as you can pop it into the Burn 2 to read it. If bin was burned directly to "solder" mounted PROM/memcal...then this may interest you Moates HDR1 however it's really not necessary. I feel working off a "stock" tune is better than working off a mail order tune that you have no idea what was done to it.
It's not a mail order tune. Although there is a possibility a G1 has been installed. The tune has been changed a couple times so maybe. What is the best way to make heads or tails of the data? Hate to be such a noob. But I've got to start somewhere. If the Eprom is on a G1 adapter, I should be able to pop it off and read the bin contents with the Burn2 adapter? Then "sift" through the data with Tuner Pro?
It's not a mail order tune. Although there is a possibility a G1 has been installed. The tune has been changed a couple times so maybe. What is the best way to make heads or tails of the data? Hate to be such a noob. But I've got to start somewhere. If the Eprom is on a G1 adapter, I should be able to pop it off and read the bin contents with the Burn2 adapter? Then "sift" through the data with Tuner Pro?
Went
You got it! A chip burner is also a chip reader. You just need the correct XDF for TunerPro to be able to interpret the data you grab from the chip.
From: Liliha Bakery stuffing my face with coco puffs!
Sorry for giving information in piece meal...everything up front would have been better especially if you are mail ordering parts. Anyhoo...the DIP socket on the G1, well let's just say it's not really designed for you to be removing and replacing the PROM multiple times. This is where a ZIF socket comes in handy. You can get one similar to the one on the Burn 2 but with everything installed, removable cover on ECM will not sit flush when reinstalled. Orientation of the PROM is important, too...if you look at the EEPROMs you ordered, there's a little half circle on 1 end which designates pin 1. There's also a notch on the DIP socket on the G1 which designates pin 1. With that said, some people will use the handle of the ZIF socket to designate pin 1 but if you decide to get a ZIF socket like the one on the Burn 2, the handle will interfere with the case when you lock the PROM into the ZIF socket.
Now for the sad part, I've only tuned speed density cars and have no experience with MAF. I believe there's some good tutorials over at thirdgen.org. I'm purdy sure it's paying attention to the BLMs and adjusting the LV8 tables accordingly... I'm sure there's some talented tuners here and they will eventually chime in!
(Is the socket on the G1 adapter a spring clip type or machined IC socket? I could plug in a ZIF socket while making changes I suppose. Maybe one of the ZIF sockets with the really short locking lever?)
Oh, I see, it's a machined IC socket. I should have looked closer at your picture links stew86MCSS396.
Okay, I received my stuff from Moates. (one day early!) My ECM is out. I've extracted the part holding the three IC's. Is the 27C128 IC soldered down? Should I just be able to gently pry it up a little at a time from both ends and out? I assume I have to insert it into the Burn2 module to read the bin file and save it to the computer. I've extracted IC's from boards in the past. Some sockets hold on with a death grip and others just about let the IC fall into your lap...some are soldered down. What have I got here?
Okay, I received my stuff from Moates. (one day early!) My ECM is out. I've extracted the part holding the three IC's. Is the 27C128 IC soldered down? Should I just be able to gently pry it up a little at a time from both ends and out? I assume I have to insert it into the Burn2 module to read the bin file and save it to the computer. I've extracted IC's from boards in the past. Some sockets hold on with a death grip and others just about let the IC fall into your lap...some are soldered down. What have I got here?
Thanks, Went
Do not attempt to remove anything from the original Memcal. Please read the instructions on Moates's website on how to install their adapter. If you want to read from the Memcal, you'll need to either make an adapter yourself out of spare pins laying around (if you have any), or get something like this: http://www.moates.net/hdr1-memcal-he....html?cPath=64
Thanks Nomake Wan and stew86mcss396. I called Moates and they said it was soldered in place. I kind of thought so looking at the legs. So I did order the HDR1 module. I have read the G1 memory module installation instructions and it appears pretty straight forward. Stew86mcss396, I totally missed the mention of the HDR1 in your thread #12 or, If I may, I'm going to chalk it up to being old and tired...