When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
my 500 dollar car..... should of sold it when i could of made some cash...
this thing has been a total nightmare but i am figuring it out. i have read a whole lot of posts about problems like needing a clockwise rotation power steering pump and what will work.. this forum is great and almost a must have if you are new to these cars..
hopefully this will be back on the road by the fourth of july..
the hooker headers dont even fit right, they are hitting the heat sheild on drivers side some, is that normal? i was bummed after spending money like that and have to fight with it
im going to be running an electric water pump and am having a hard time with accessory brackets for power steering and alternator. i bought the billet specialties serpentine kit for old style set up but the double crank pully hits the rack and pinion... i thought about spacing the rack out and adjusting tie rods to work. im back to using factory bracket with power steering and alt on drivers side but it looks like the belt will just barley roll on power steering. do i need to add in the air pump delete thing? i just wanted to run it with just alt and power steering. that rack and pinion is so close like 1/4 to half inch too close.. foiled... 800 bucks into shiny fancy pulleys and can't use them
im going to be running an electric water pump and am having a hard time with accessory brackets for power steering and alternator. i bought the billet specialties serpentine kit for old style set up but the double crank pully hits the rack and pinion... i thought about spacing the rack out and adjusting tie rods to work. im back to using factory bracket with power steering and alt on drivers side but it looks like the belt will just barley roll on power steering. do i need to add in the air pump delete thing? i just wanted to run it with just alt and power steering. that rack and pinion is so close like 1/4 to half inch too close.. foiled... 800 bucks into shiny fancy pulleys and can't use them
If you're using the stock accessory setup you'll need the air pump delete, otherwise you'll have improper belt wrap and a slipping belt.
As for powersteering, have you looked at going electric? The MK3 MR2 has electric powersteering and the pump can be run entirely standalone with just a relay, im looking at it for my LS swapped C4 WIP.
Last edited by ThatOneKid; Jun 13, 2021 at 08:26 AM.
This is mine. 88.
The left pulley is from a Mercruiser setup.. if you have a marina near you they could sell you one cheap. It adjusts with 2 wrenches and works great. Had to modify bracket a little (still don't know why, I have GM fastburn heads). The alternator is a 1 wire unit that fits the stock lower alternator bracket (but had to drill out lower hole in alternator 1 size bigger, no big deal). And then on top I made the support rod. Engine uses stock crank pulley, stock power steering pump, and stock waterpump.....was easy to do.
as far as headers I cant help you there. I have heddmans and they fit perfectly..
Just throwing some ideas at ya.
I assume that you are nor using any emissions equipment or AC.
Using a standard rotation ( stock is reverse ) mechanical water pump is easier because you can use all stock brackets exept for top alternator where you fabricate a turnbuckle as tensioner.
If using an electrical waterpump you will need to fabricate an extra idler pulley to make the belt go around the water pump motor.
the hooker headers dont even fit right, they are hitting the heat sheild on drivers side some, is that normal? i was bummed after spending money like that and have to fight with it
Seems to be the case. Drill out rivets and push it against the body, closing the gap. Refasten.
I assume that you are nor using any emissions equipment or AC.
Using a standard rotation ( stock is reverse ) mechanical water pump is easier because you can use all stock brackets except for top alternator where you fabricate a turnbuckle as tensioner.
If using an electrical water pump you will need to fabricate an extra idler pulley to make the belt go around the water pump motor.
this is exactly what i had to do. i just don't like the everything on 1 side idea
Seems to be the case. Drill out rivets and push it against the body, closing the gap. Refasten.
you mean the heat shield? kinda what i firgured. though i thought take it to the hoist and mark, cut, bend, re weld with tig...
just makes me laugh after seeing hooker header adds in every thing i have seen for 40 years and have to do all that... thought they was american made for american muscle
that looks clean, fostersperformance, just not the look i wanted and i have already bought the clockwise rotation c5 power steering pump and electric water pump.. so i am going to make it work, some how. maybe i will play with rack and pinion this weekend and see how much it need's shimmed. half inch spacers under the bolt base would do it, i think.. if i get it all working i can just aluminum weld the spacers in place.. if thats what it takes
nightmare
