stripped clutch ball stud
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,882
Likes: 234
From: Bangkok, Thailand
stripped clutch ball stud
I tried heating it, used a 12mm hex socket but it wouldn't budge - till it stripped. Yes, I was turning clockwise.
So, now how in the hell to you get the bellhousing off? I can't get the fork off the release bearing and the bearing will not turn either. A Ford guy must have designed this setup.
So, now how in the hell to you get the bellhousing off? I can't get the fork off the release bearing and the bearing will not turn either. A Ford guy must have designed this setup.
Last edited by mcm95403; Jul 10, 2021 at 10:00 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,882
Likes: 234
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,882
Likes: 234
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Pro
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 647
Likes: 126
From: Liliha Bakery stuffing my face with coco puffs!
I'm not going to even pretend I know anything about this...does locking screw prevent removal?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ing-screw.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ing-screw.html
Last edited by stew86MCSS396; Jul 10, 2021 at 01:14 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,882
Likes: 234
From: Bangkok, Thailand
I'm not going to even pretend I know anything about this...does locking screw prevent removal?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ing-screw.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ing-screw.html
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 14,064
Likes: 1,166
From: N. Alabama
You might call ZF Doc. When my clutch started grinding while depressing the clutch pedal I discovered it had loosened. I had to get another ball stud, of course the bellhousing was removed, and loctited the heck out of it on reinstallment. That was years ago and I can't remember all the details. Perhaps ZF Doc has a good solution for you. GL.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,113
Likes: 1,994
From: St. Charles MO
Originally Posted by ZF Doc
Remove the bell housing by aligning the fork on the two flats
of the release (throw out) bearing and pull the fork back from the bearing while rotating the bell housing in a counterclockwise direction.
Note: Excessive clutch disc wear may require loosening of the
ball stud to disengage fork and bell housing.
- The 6mm Allen socket ball stud locking screw is a
counter-clockwise turn-to-loosen thread and is tightened to 10 lbs-ft. The torque spec in the manual is incorrect.
- The 12mm Allen socket fork ball stud is a clockwise turn-to-loosen thread (left handed) and is tightened to 33 lbs-ft. NOTE: If the fork ball stud is not able to be loosened/removed (clockwise rotation), the allen socket portion of the threaded stud has cracks in it allowing it to expand remaining locked in position. This happens more often than one would expect likely due to the thread being the opposite direction thread type where counterclockwise rotation actually tightens the ball stud more so resulting in cracking the thread portion of the ball stud. Removal of the stud once the thread portion has cracked is best done buy CAREFULLY cutting the stud in half by using a cut-off wheel through the retainer hole of the bell housing. Once the stud is severed below the shift fork, the bell housing can be removed and a 1-1/8" socket can be used to back the stud out for replacement. When backing the stud out from the flywheel side, it is to be loosened by rotating in the counterclockwise direction.
Caution: Do not let the clutch hydraulic slave cylinder (actuator) hang from the feed line.
Be sure to secure the actuator off to the side in a horizontal position. This will reduce the likelihood of any suspended debris in the clutch hydraulic fluid from settling in the actuator at the seal which can lodge in the seal and possibly compromise the clutch hydraulic system.
***CAUTION*** Do not, under any circumstance, use any type of leverage bar between transmission and bell housing. Manipulation by varying support height with floor jack may assist in aligning the bolt holes.
of the release (throw out) bearing and pull the fork back from the bearing while rotating the bell housing in a counterclockwise direction.
Note: Excessive clutch disc wear may require loosening of the
ball stud to disengage fork and bell housing.
- The 6mm Allen socket ball stud locking screw is a
counter-clockwise turn-to-loosen thread and is tightened to 10 lbs-ft. The torque spec in the manual is incorrect.
- The 12mm Allen socket fork ball stud is a clockwise turn-to-loosen thread (left handed) and is tightened to 33 lbs-ft. NOTE: If the fork ball stud is not able to be loosened/removed (clockwise rotation), the allen socket portion of the threaded stud has cracks in it allowing it to expand remaining locked in position. This happens more often than one would expect likely due to the thread being the opposite direction thread type where counterclockwise rotation actually tightens the ball stud more so resulting in cracking the thread portion of the ball stud. Removal of the stud once the thread portion has cracked is best done buy CAREFULLY cutting the stud in half by using a cut-off wheel through the retainer hole of the bell housing. Once the stud is severed below the shift fork, the bell housing can be removed and a 1-1/8" socket can be used to back the stud out for replacement. When backing the stud out from the flywheel side, it is to be loosened by rotating in the counterclockwise direction.
Caution: Do not let the clutch hydraulic slave cylinder (actuator) hang from the feed line.
Be sure to secure the actuator off to the side in a horizontal position. This will reduce the likelihood of any suspended debris in the clutch hydraulic fluid from settling in the actuator at the seal which can lodge in the seal and possibly compromise the clutch hydraulic system.
***CAUTION*** Do not, under any circumstance, use any type of leverage bar between transmission and bell housing. Manipulation by varying support height with floor jack may assist in aligning the bolt holes.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,882
Likes: 234
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Sorry, I didn't read your question carefully enough. The fork kind of slides onto the groove in the throwout bearing from the left side (as you look toward the front of the car/transmission). If you have the bellhousing fully unbolted and the slave cylinder off, you should be able to slide the entire bellhousing to the left to slide the fork off the bearing, using a counterclockwise rotating motion. Then it should be free. It shouldn't be very difficult - I had little trouble doing it with the engine still in the car. If the fork won't come off the bearing, then something is wrong there. Makes me wonder if the pivot stud is screwed so far in now that it is somehow putting tension on the fork/bearing. Here's what ZF Doc says:
