thanks everyone - i am hoping to get time to get in the garage today - I have not tried to start it with things loosely in place - i think I will route it and get it in place first only because I have the new cable so i might as well replace it - I think i saw 2 fusible links that are attached to this extra wire along with a plug - normally i would be all in with the while you're in there - but I want to see if the cable is the "fix". i am afraid that if i change other things i may create new variables - this way if the cable is not the fix, i can eliminate one thing - does that make any sense - a little early i know but at least in my head at the moment it does

there also appears to be a few of those links by the starter as well - maybe?

 

There's likely 3 @ the starter and either 2 or 3 from the additional lead @ the battery! The FSM pretty much 'explains all'.

 

positive battery cable - boy that was fun - not the problem apparently - same condition - battery shows 11+v at cranking - less than .5v (.03) from neg battery side to block with key in on position - (if i understood how to do that right . . . )

fusible links? if so - does anyone know the sizes of the fusible links at the starter? -

 

my other question would be can it be the fuse tied to the clutch that lurks behind the dash? i read about that little nugget in my searches - just curious

 

my bad called it the wrong thing -
clutch safety switch by the pedal? - is that a thing for the 85 with 4+3?

 

tried jumping the selinoid with a remote starter switch - heard a single click then nothing - selinoid?

 

The Starter Solenoid is a distinct "possibility". I have not bothered with replacing one of those in 30 + years. I used a gear drive starter and made my Corvette "Crank like a Chrysler". The gear drive starters come with a new solenoid. If you are not comfortable taking the starter apart you might find a shop that repairs things like starters and Alternators.

So you put a remote starter on the Big wire feeding the solenoid and then connected the little single wire to the big wire through a Handheld remote starter switch. If 12 volts is not available on the big wire on the solenoid then the test is a waste of time.

Remove the starter and have someone test it for you as the starter and the solenoid needs to be checked out by a professional.

Did you try and run the new wire externally from the battery positive to the Starter Solenoid to test it first? A shorted out starter might be pulling the current down and giving you the .5 volt you said earlier. Disconnect the wire feeding the starter solenoid and verify that it now has full battery voltage when it is not connected to anything but the battery.

Clutch lock out "Safety" switches are a pain to figure out at times. This is where the FSM will come in handy.

 

yes the fsm flow chart recommended the test which i think i performed ok - instead of jumping the two posts with a screwdriver or pliers i bought a remote starter switch from performance tool - it has a light on the handle that indicates it has power to it so it seemed to do what it was supposed to - it was a real sob to reach the smaller post with the clip but eventually got it connected and the light came on - the only thing that seemed confusing was whether or not the ignition switch was to be in the start/on position -

when connected and the light on i pushed the button and heard a single click - not like when the starter is trying to work and the battery is dead - one click then nothing

i will say with the new positive cable the dash lights are very bright - so at least there is that

i double check the cable to make sure though i am pretty sure i checked it before pulling it through everything

any recommendations on starters for replacement if need be?

thanks again for the patience and help

Sean

 

Not knowing your plans for your Corvette I would venture to say that a Good quality Rebuilt Starter is a great way to go as long as the "quality" is there. I would have a local shop rebuild it as long as they stand behind their work.
These newer commercially available rebuilt starters are not holding up very well so I had mine overhauled and put it back on my 427. It still struggled starting the 427 when warm so I then wrapped it, no change. I finally got tired and bought a new gear drive Starter from Summit. That gear drive was the solution I was looking for! It cranked the engine over easily and quickly.

The nice thing about the gear drive starter was that it can be rotated around to make it fit the best for your application. I have never had any heat soaking issues with this starter either.

Using my MSD ignition system I retarded the timing by 20* while cranking and this made starting really easy. It would crank like a Chrysler and start right up!

 

thanks - is it a direct fit ? I may down the line want headers so that may way into the decision - would rather not buy 2 - and would probably want new

 

The Gear Drive Starter I installed on my C3 was very easy to install as it is tiny and lightweight compared to the factory starter. They go right in without any problems or issues. When you go to headers you can rotate the motor location IF you need to. I have had this starter with my Stock Cast iron Manifolds and with the headers and it just works and fits just as well.

Find a good knowledgeable person at Summit, Jegs or any one of these companies and they should help you. I think I spent about $200 a long time ago for the gear drive starter.

 

that does sound promising!

 

is the Gear Drive Starter - the same as the reduction or is that different? just to help with the search

 

The Gear Drive starters have been used for decades on Chrysler vehicles. They do have a reduction gearing so they might be known as reduction starter possibly. If your engine is going to stay stock on the compression ratio then you don't need to buy an expensive Hi-Torque starter. The NEW gear drive starters begin at $136 and go up on Summit. Find a nice small one that can fit out of the way.

 

summit was where i was looking - i was not finding gear drive starter for some reason - feel kinda stupid - type in gear drive and get the reductions all they are showing is the end gear - selection sends me to gear reduction -

 

Take a peek at Summit and look up the "Powermaster Starters". That will be the the beginning of the gear drive starters. That is the base unit for $136 that I mentioned earlier.

Have a great day!

 

i just wanted to reach out and say thanks again for all of the input and help - the new powermaster 9600 - started the engine - it did take 2 shims supplied with the starter - i will still go back and cover the open gap at the bottom where the starter did not fully cover - the new positive cable fit fine and reached with only a little extra tugging - all of the other connections reached fine as well - i am going to do some tests on the old starter to see what exactly was wrong - but that will come later - driving comes first!

thanks again everyone!