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So I check the codes and found none. The Pass-key (A/D) count was 140…. Whatever that means.
I could not locate the location of the actual pass key resistance as seen by the CCM. Perhaps I could see it with my ALDL Droid scanner. It is currently packed as we are in the process of moving but I will grab it next time I am at the storage facility.
So I check the codes and found none. The Pass-key (A/D) count was 140…. Whatever that means.
I could not locate the location of the actual pass key resistance as seen by the CCM. Perhaps I could see it with my ALDL Droid scanner. It is currently packed as we are in the process of moving but I will grab it next time I am at the storage facility.
That would match your thoughts of resistance being a #9. See 8D-57 of FSM
*** I actually believe that when all diagnostics are done you're going to find an issue internal to starter. Most often a pair of contacts, a plunger and basic maintenance corrects the issue.
136-143..... making progress. I guess i need to try and get it to do it again and see the security light is doing with the key in the on position to rule out a VATS problem. It is just so darn intermittent and always at the worst time when I am in hurry to be somewhere.
136-143..... making progress. I guess i need to try and get it to do it again and see the security light is doing with the key in the on position to rule out a VATS problem. It is just so darn intermittent and always at the worst time when I am in hurry to be somewhere.
Do you leave the column in a 'single' position when driving and also garaged? Knowing how to get to the VATS info you could maybe lift the column, lower the column and changing keys compare the A/D counts when checking. If you had very erratic readings then you could maybe assume the wires at the lock cylinder are maybe faulty. There's no 'HURRY' to get to 'CRANK' w/LT5. I believe I've mentioned to you how to likely determine & duplicate the issue that last left you 'stranded'!
The column does not adjust. Also, the problem is very random. I used to use the car to drive to the gym frequently. It seemed to happen there the most often. I will take it to the gym this weekend and maybe I will get lucky.
Correction: Yes of course the column does adjust but I never messed with adjusting while having the problem. Good idea however.
Also, if the problem is with the key cylinder reading to the correct key resistance, would that throw a code? Theoretically it is not a malfunction.
Yes - you'd like to have very high ambient outdoor temp and need to be sure your stay in the gym is similar time value as in the past. NO START you return to gym and repeat the routine!
In case you're interested. I bypassed the VATS on my 88 vert only b/c I heard of all the problems with it. The full conversation I had with the OP of the below linked post
gives a straightforward and easy bypass of the VATS with the exception of removing the breadbox which was something I wanted to do, could have done it by just removing the
dashpad. In any case, hope this helps you https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...orkaround.html
So I was thinking that if this problem is not related to the VATS system and maybe related to the starter, when I turn the key, should I not still hear the fuel pumps energize?
So I was thinking that if this problem is not related to the VATS system and maybe related to the starter, when I turn the key, should I not still hear the fuel pumps energize?
What you say is true. That said, the system does NOT energize and prime the pump each and every time you turn the key. So turn it once after a longer shutdown and it primes. Within a certain time, maybe 5 to 10 minutes (IIRC), it will not prime again. Best way to know is to check if the starter is getting signal.
No. The pump(s) primes and stops.When the engine cranks, and reference pulses are present, the pump(s) are turned on again. If reference pulses are not received (ie, the engine is not cranked) the key must be OFF for about 10 seconds before it will prime again. Not 5-10 minutes.
Could have sworn it was longer than 10 seconds but it's been a long time.
So I was thinking that if this problem is not related to the VATS system and maybe related to the starter, when I turn the key, should I not still hear the fuel pumps energize?
easy way to check is to put a test light on the solenoid lug and when you turn the key to start, see if it lights. If so and the car doesn't turn over, you have a bad solenoid / starter. If not, it COULD be VATS.
Last edited by RalfKramden; Sep 8, 2021 at 07:22 PM.
Reason: correction
easy way to check is to put a test light on the solenoid lug and when you turn the key to start, see if it lights. If so and the car doesn't turn over, you have a bad solenoid / starter. If not, it COULD be VATS.
the problem is getting to the starter lug. If you own a ZR1 then you know the intake plenum and coil packs have to be removed unless the wire can be identified elsewhere in the system and checked at that point. Ruling out the VATS system first seems to make the most sense at this point.
Have you replaced the the lock cylinder yet, the contacts inside can grow poor over the year's. It's not a bad job but it can take some time to the novist.
beside getting a bypass kit or doing the correct thing of replacement of cylinder you can buy a new cylinder plug it in and leave a key with correct chip in it and do what a friend of mine did. He cut a hole in the kick panel and mounted the extra cylinder in the hole so if he wanted to disabled the car he would pull key from kick panel
hahaha. I am less concerned about disabling VATS and my car getting stolen. The best theft deferent around here is a stick shift.
As a follow up to this old thread, at the end of the day I honestly think the high tension lines or some other radio type interference was responsible for the issue. I have since moved and have driven the car for the last 2 years never having the problem again..... knock on wood. It only ever happened when I parked near this particular power-line system at my gym or the Home Depot just down the road.