Long story short, last year I bent all nice stainless tubing for my parallel fuel plumbing. It ended up having some wacked out harmonic with the injector pulse and VRFPR where I would get lean spikes at narrow RPM bands that would make the car undrivable at those spots regardless of fueling or pressure that was thrown at it. The fix was some rubber line and hose clamps on the feed side off the T coming from the fuel pump.

Since the car is coming back apart this winter (at least the top end is) I was curious if AN line would work well enough for this as a fix. It is obviously going to be stiffer than regular high pressure rubber line (and much less of a fire risk....) but I would imagine it will still have some give compared to aluminum or stainless tubing no? I'd just hate to spend money on all the AN parts and end back up at square one anyway.

Part two of this is I am going through the valve train and switching to two piece pushrod guide plates. Is welding really necessary or is it more for the ability to just bolt it back in and go when disassembled.

And I guess part three, for the cold lifter tick I have, look for a plunger in the lifter sitting lower than the rest or something along those lines while it is apart?

That is pretty much all I really have to address at this point in time. It was suggested I try fully collapsing the lifters then pumping back up to help as well. Not sure that is the best move.

Thanks for any input.

 

I have used the PTFE lined AN lines for my entire fuel system before. It has to be PTFE lined or it will not last.

I just installed a new OEM Fuel Tank Module on my C3 made by Holley. It has the pressure regulator mounted inside the fuel tank so you don't need a return line. The kit came with Earl's AN Tubing with PTFE inside it.

We have a 1988 C4 that had corrosion on the fuel lines, I could have done AN there but instead chose to keep it like it was originally and I replaced the fuel Supply and return lines with new ones pre-bent for the C4. They sell them at Classic Tube in Upstate NY.

When I have a lifter that starts to tick I will try a slightly heavier oil and see if it goes away. If not I pull that valve cover over the offending valve and tighten it up a quarter turn. This worked on a Buick Small Block that my Dad was getting ready to have rebuilt due to the ticking.

Only one chemical helper (Snake-oil to some) that I have seen work on parts like that is Justice Brothers Oil Additive. This stuff really does work and can repair surface defects on the metal. I use it on my C3's expensive engine regularly when I do an oil change.

 

Good info on the PTFE line. I only need about 2 feet as the rest of the hard line is still in great condition. (I swapped the throttle bodies from plumbed in series to plumbed in parallel to support the fuel flow required for the new engine is all.)

I tried a thicker oil for the lifter, I went to a 15w40 for a bit and it made no difference. It only does this cold... once coolant hits 140 or so or it runs for a minute or two it goes away and never comes back. That is what is weird about it. I'm used to warm ticks, this doesn't do that.