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I took my new to me '85 for a longer drive today (had to run it through the smog station). I noticed on the drive that it ran about 157 degrees on the highway in 45 degree temps. When I was parked with it running at the smog station, it climbed to 210 deg.
Does this sound like the PO installed a 160 degree thermostat? I would have thought that it would run at 160 all the time, or around 200 all the time if it was stock.
Given the outside temps and you cruising on the highway, yes its quite likely that theres a lowered stat in the car. Only times I ever saw my 86 with a 160 run that cool and stay there is on winter mornings or evenings in the 30s.
A stock stat might not have stayed open very long in 45F cruising but would have run warmer than 157.
Even though it shouldn't start opening until 160, it's quite possible to "drive the temps down", below the rating. How? All that cold air and you have a COLD slug of water in the radiator, Stat opens and that comes into the block, up through the heads before hitting the stat and closing it again. Meanwhile, Coolant temp sensors sees water under 160 for a brief period.
I use a 160 degree thermostat in the 350 engine in my boat. It runs for hours at a time at about 3400 RPM, making power all the time. It needs to be cool when it's working like that. Corvette engines need to be hotter than that, as they aren't always working hard like that. Engine oil will sludge up if the engine is run too cool. Get a 180 or 190 degree stat and make sure your fans run properly.
Corvette engines need to be hotter than that, as they aren't always working hard like that. Engine oil will sludge up if the engine is run too cool.
Nope, nope, nope.
Same engine. Oil will not "sludge up" from a 160 stat. Nope, nope, nope. The "Corvette" engine is absolutely fine, running at most any temp the OP chooses to run it at...that you can buy a stat for.
While I agree with Tom that low operating temps won't cause "sludge", I feel that low temps can contribute to condensation build-up, and milk-shakey oil on the heads. The 327 in my 18' Jet Boat is cooled with bleed-water off of the jet drive. Because there is no recirculating water pump, there can be no thermostat. I have a gate-valve to adjust the water flow and the operating temp. I have to open the valve far enough to keep the exposed exhaust manifolds (water cooled) cool enough at idle to not burn occupants that may contact them. But at speed, with the increased water flow off the jet drive, the engine runs about 150F. If the valve covers are off the first couple of days of a trip, there is condensation on the underside of the aluminum valve covers, and sometimes puddling of liquid water in the low spots in the heads. At the end of a 8-9 day trip, the moisture is gone, and so are any signs of milki-shakey oil.
That SOUNDS like condensation from storage...and running it evaporated it off.
IME, If you're getting condensation in your oil, (in a car, using a thermostat...any thermostat), that is your driving cycle and that is called "Severe conditions" in your owner's manual. Oil changes should be done accordingly, in that case.
The boat sounds cool, BTW...I totally dig old skool, hot boats. Wish there were more around here to stare at.
I took my new to me '85 for a longer drive today (had to run it through the smog station). I noticed on the drive that it ran about 157 degrees on the highway in 45 degree temps. When I was parked with it running at the smog station, it climbed to 210 deg.
Does this sound like the PO installed a 160 degree thermostat? I would have thought that it would run at 160 all the time, or around 200 all the time if it was stock.
You will get less controversy and arguments discussing politics, than you will get discussing C4 Thermostat temps. But here I go..... The engineers designed the C4 with a 195 F T-Stat for many reasons. I'd change your 160 F t-stat with a stock 195 F t-stat next time you do a coolant change. People claim performance gains at lower temps. (Maybe in drag racing, but unlikely in a street cars). And remember the ECM controls the coolant temp via the fans; the t-stat simply controls when the coolant will bypass the radiator. In cold weather, a 160F t-stat may not allow the engine to warm up enough to the point where the ECM can control the temp.
The engineers designed the C4 with a 195 F T-Stat for many reasons
The engineers had to meet criteria that we don't have to and we don't care about. Making that case would apply to any/all mods to the car. I.e. you could never change anything on the car b/c "the engineers did if for a reason". But...we (nearly) all change things because we have different goals and criteria than the engineers did.
Originally Posted by 1985 Vette
People claim performance gains at lower temps. (Maybe in drag racing, but unlikely in a street cars).
"People" don't just claim....it's actually been proven. Take some time to read THIS THREAD....then NOTE that in all of the tests referenced in that thread, none of them exploited the biggest power advantage to lower operating temps -the potential to run more timing w/o detonation. They simply gained hp with cooler temps, no other changes.
Originally Posted by 1985 Vette
And remember the ECM controls the coolant temp via the fans; the t-stat simply controls when the coolant will bypass the radiator. In cold weather, a 160F t-stat may not allow the engine to warm up enough to the point where the ECM can control the temp.
The ECM doesn't control the temp. The fans don't control the temp (other then when stopped or otherwise "no" air flow). The thermostat controls the lower operating temp range. Cooling system capacity, ambient temps and air flow control the upper end of the range. An engine w/a 160 stat will run a minimum of 160 -even in the coldest temps, and it will warm up to 160 just as fast as the same engine with a 195 stat.
Neither choice is "wrong"....it all depends on the goals. Many 'Vette owners like "more power", so....that's a common goal/criteria.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Apr 23, 2022 at 11:15 AM.
I have a 160 in my 93 and even if the coolant temp is always around 180 in normal backroads driving condition oil temp will be around 190 which’s perfect IMO
I drove the car to work a couple of times this week. It runs at 157 going down the highway, but as soon as I stop, the temp starts to climb. Sitting in a drive through it goes up to about 228. This is all in ambient temps in the 40’s and low 50’s. I am doing a full tuneup and fluid changes on the car this weekend. Part of the service will be installing a factory thermosat.
I drove the car to work a couple of times this week. It runs at 157 going down the highway, but as soon as I stop, the temp starts to climb. Sitting in a drive through it goes up to about 228. This is all in ambient temps in the 40’s and low 50’s. I am doing a full tuneup and fluid changes on the car this weekend. Part of the service will be installing a factory thermosat.
If its climbing up that high in those ambient temps, that is probably why the previous owner put in a 160, these things will run up to that temp, when the fans come on at 228, if they are left to idle.
Wouldn't be a bad idea to flush your coolant system and replace all the coolant, along with the radiator cap, if you're changing the stat out.
I drove the car to work a couple of times this week. It runs at 157 going down the highway, but as soon as I stop, the temp starts to climb. Sitting in a drive through it goes up to about 228. This is all in ambient temps in the 40’s and low 50’s. I am doing a full tuneup and fluid changes on the car this weekend. Part of the service will be installing a factory thermosat.
The 228 F when idling is normal. When idling, my 85 and 88 both will go up to 225-228 F before the cooling fans comes on and stays on until about 210 F. Both have stock 195 F T-Stats.