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1995 Cranks no Starting Issues, LT1 Auto, 100K, issue began 12/21. Had the car idling getting ready for storage, it got hot and bubbled over a little. Shut it down and added old stabile. I tried to start and it would just crank. I put my foot to the floor and is started. Sputtering. This spring, I replaced injectors, fuel filter, most of the gas, strainer, fuel pump, checked fan relays, air filter, oil change, temp sensor on water pump and now have a air idle control on order. When it starts, it runs great. But often long crank, last night when hot, it would not fire at all. Where should I look next. It was idling at around 1200. My fan is working now with the AC. That temp sensor was bad. Thank you for all your help in advance.
How was the temperature bad? Is that the one in the WP. Because open or low reading it will throw the mixture way to rich (or lean if low reading). What was the digital temp reading in the speedo?
Check the vacuum line to the FPR to see if it has fuel in it. If it has, the engine is loading up.And of course check fuel pressure as said, a given.
One last likely cause is a intermittent ICM. They are temperature sensitive when going bad and can produce low or no spark with no warning. Your symptoms do match a bad ICM but not saying it's bad, got to check it out.
Rock auto daily driver injectors, temp sensor in water pump was 3 ohms pin to pin or case. New one was 2500 ohms pin to pin open to case. It will start with foot to floor. Then it runs decent. 30 to 40 fuel pressure. 40 at key on, 30 at idle, then it jumps up with throttle. It feels flooded and smells of gas. Or choke is on.
Friday night, I had to put it to the floor to start it and it ran good, Saturday the same. Sunday it ran good until I shut it off at Wendy's. Came out a short while later and if I gave it too much gas it would try to stall. Temp was over 200. The digital and analog gauges are different, analog is higher. I let it cool a few hours and it ran good again. Once it got over 200 it started acting up again. Slow throttle response and would barely restart. I have a new pressure regulator in already. Fuel pressure holds after I shut it off.
Rock auto daily driver injectors, temp sensor in water pump was 3 ohms pin to pin or case. New one was 2500 ohms pin to pin open to case. It will start with foot to floor. Then it runs decent. 30 to 40 fuel pressure. 40 at key on, 30 at idle, then it jumps up with throttle. It feels flooded and smells of gas. Or choke is on.
Did you check the vacuum line off the FPR.
2500 ohms is OK at ambient temperature.
A low or shorted reading would make for a very lean mixture when engine is cold.
There is no choke on this engine. But when you put your foot to the floor it sends a signal to the injectors to shut off or lower fuel flow. This is to clear our a flooded engine.
A temperature of 200 is right in the ball park and no problem.
Analog and digital gauges can read different. Go by the digital because the engine does and it controls A/F. The analog does nothing and is just reference.
I'm thinking at this point you don't have a fuel problem. I think you have a spark problem. It is a possibility the ICM might be intermittent with heat. They are known to cause hard starting, no start at all, and engine quit at random times.
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