Several years back I bought a '93 LT1 / ZF6 clean with real low miles.. I found out about VATS on the trip home when I stopped for gas. At first , I thought it was voltage related but soon realized a little squirt of brake cleaner in the key slot would fix the problem. Now that fix no longer works. The key switch feels a bit loose and my spare key is difficult to get out of the slot. My gut feeling is to replace the key switch assembly ( which is something I've never done before) and possibly add a VATS bypass switch. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

The M6 cylinder is different. Replacing it as a DIY? Not extremely difficult but might be worth a conversation if you have a shop relationship of any sort. Someone familiar with correct tools could actually be considered a 'savings'! If you actually have 'key rotation' issues that would certainly be an indicator that a cylinder will fix it. When you buy the new cylinder it will come with only a 'brass' work-key that will only rotate the cylinder. Your current keys will be of no value. The reasonable thing to do would be get new resistor blank(s) and match the current resistance. If it's a 'rotation' only issue doing the VATS bypass right now might be overkill but certainly a thought. Buy it in advance? I wouldn't think so.

 

To clarify, cylinder will rotate and security light comes on . With the spare key which is like new with sharp cuts , it is difficult to pull out but even with the main key there is sometimes a jiggle fest and the cylinder moves a bit in the column .A Vats bypass might enable me to drive it to a shop. The idea of taking that column apart does scare me a bit.. Is there anything else I should be looking at? I'm pretty sure a new cylinder would be a good thing but not sure it's the only problem.

 

I gotta wonder if using cleaner has removed TOO MUCH of the factory lube necessary for the ignition switch to turn smoothly?

You know...I've heard/read it's 'not the best idea, but I've "shot" powdered graphite into my 89/ZF6 ignition switch 5-6 times over 23 years. The mechanism is always "smooth" after doing this. Seems it MIGHT be a bad idea because of the ignition's "need" to read the VATS pellet in the key. Not sure I've had this problem? Maybe...once/twice?

IIRC, it sets a 3 min delay before start is possible.

Also, IIRC, you can place a resistor "in line" with the VATS "circuit to force a success VATS test -- regardless of pellet working OR being clean OR whatever. Seems like the wire to put it in is just under the dash on the DS and accessible w/o pulling the steering column. Might not be the same on yours though?

Picking the correct resistor is done my measuring the pellet with an ohm meter.

Though I've yet to see the need to do it, installing a resistor ELIMINATES the VATS issue. And that COULD "solve" the problem of a no-VATS start. Probably 20 yrs ago, I started thinking I'd need an ignition switch. Graphite (alone) has done the job -- regardless of what you read. (Just don't shoot a MOUNTAIN of it into the key slot! LOL)

I've bought small tubes of graphite (hotel toothpaste size) from hardware/autoparts stores.

NOTE: After squirting dry graphite in the lock, I turn it back/forth several times (without starting the engine), remove the key and wipe any residue from the key. Repeat one/two times more....until key stays clean.

 

Get a ohm meter and measure the resistance of the "chip" on your key. It's a resistor not really a chip. Then you can wire in a resistor under the dash to eliminate it or purchase a pre made Vats bypass plug for the resistance you measured before.

There are I believe only 15 different resistance values.

 

I had the same problem 10+ years ago and could not get the key out of the cylinder. I did do the job of replacing the cylinder and getting new keys. I had all the tools except the lock plate tool which I borrowed from AutoZone. Not a hard job but it does take time. Look at how things come apart and take pictures. Care for reassembly is upmost.

I believe WVZR-1 assisted me with some information and had a great link for a procedure but unfortunately the link does not work anymore. However there is still information out there which is good to read. I don’t know what WVZR-1 has today.

Fast forward to today and last month I got stuck 60 miles in Daytona from home with a VATS event and could not start the car. Had a spare key, did all I could but had to get a tow home. The short story is one of the leads (contact) for the key pellet was open from the contact in the key cylinder to the plug at the base of the steering column. So I believe there is a broken wire right at the cylinder where it turns and that where it probably broke. I know it needs a new cylinder but in the mean time I inserted a resistor at the base of the steering column to simulate the key pellet so I can get the car started and useable.

 

My recent experience with VATS
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...y-feature.html

 

Here is the thread to the last thing I wrote after replacing my cylinder. It has my notes but as I said the link is to old and won't work.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nder-94-a.html

 

yes that snap ring was the hardest part for me although the first c clip was its own challenge I tried 3 different snap ring pliers and finally went postal with long nose and a small flat blade. The mean old round ring use 3 picks or two picks and a small flat blade. Force the point of the pick under near one `end` to get started. Put it back on with 2 under it if you can if its like mine theres a `land` it will drop in halfway back down. It was a fight but everything else was no big deal just take your time use a few `baggies` or whatever to keep little pieces organized in. The last job my brother helped me with rip my brother

 

Well guys , thanks for the replies! Now the mystery thickens. Was going to go to the electronics store and get a resistor to plug in line but before I did , I checked for a short / open on the plug coming down from the key switch. Much to my surprise it checked OK and with the key in resistance was correct. When I plugged the lead back in , no more security light and it started. I hate chasing intermittent problems especially ones that will leave me stranded! What besides resistance on the key circuit can activate VATS? BTW , I'll never understand why anyone would stick a meter probe through wire insulation 2 inches from a connector!

 

If you have an issue in the column then it will be generally 'intermittent' - if you use the tilt often that's enough to aggravate an issue with the wires to the lock cylinder. Don't be fooled you may still suffer the 'no crank' at a later date. Buy a resistor and fabricate a connector - carry with you!

 

Was thinking that myself and yes there was a code 53 in the history! No I never use the tilt wheel but there were several previous owners and half the wires under the dash have been probed.
At least now I'm running and can get back to chasing the miss under a load after I get up to operating temp. Thinking coil or corroded contacts in the opti cap. I think I will take your advice and have a pro install a new key cylinder as well.