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This is very interesting thread about the VATS being the culprit.
I have a 96 LT4 car. I made some minor upgrades to the motor when I rebuilt it.
I called the guy at PCM for less and he sent me a reprogrammed PCM. He set it for the cam per the cam sheet. Set it for 30# injectors, set the fans at 195. Turned off the skip shift. Turned off the lower O2 sensors. If I decide to bite the bullet on some headers I wont have to mess with the rear O2 bung. He never said anything about the VATS. I got the PCM plugged it it and the car runs great. I know he didn't turn it off because it was still working, the flashing etc. Fast Forward 1 year. I had to replace the starter actuator in my column because the old one decided to break. This was another new repair for me and took a while. I pulled the column to get easier access. I had to have the ignition switch out, I can't believe how small the VATS wire is, so I decided to bypass the VATS. I checked my key, 8K ohms, ordered the bypass module from Ecklers. Installed it and the car starts and runs as normal. Is the VATS info not housed in the PCM on the 96?
Thank you
No its not housed in the PCM for a 96 year model sweetie it is housed in the CCM (Center Control Module) its behind the cage thats behind the radio and climate control
IDK how to make friends on here...just ask most any of the other members and I'm sure that they'll confirm!
You should post up some pics of your shop! I'd love to see it. Here are a couple of mine....
Please share some details on the Ferrari!!! Is it real or a replica? If it is a replica it looks very accurate as many I have seen have the incorrect front end treatment and bumper.
Which Ferrari? The red one? Or the one that grooms snow?
Real.
It was a 1963? IIRC? '62 or '63 250 California SWB with actual racing heritage. Ski resort I work at was hosting a group or rich bastards that own classic Ferrari's and these guys actually drive them!
They spend two days at our resort and one of them wanted to adjust the clutch, came to the maintenance shop that I run and asked if they could use the lift and do the adjustment? Of course, my response was something like, "**** YEAH you can!!"
the mechanic (travels along with these guys) brought it down...SUPER cool guy, and we put it up on the lift. Literally, as soon as it was up in the air, a thought dawned on me; "What if something happens to this car while it's in my shop?!? Thing is probably worth like, $3million!"
It turns out that it's worth way, WAY more than $3 mil. I tried to enjoy scrutinizing the car and looking at everything (I was surprised that it has a solid rear axle and leaf springs), but mostly I was trying to help expedite the adjustment and get the car out of the shop!
Everything went seamlessly however and it turned out to a great, unique car-guy time.
So this might be the place for a VATS story. I will be extensively brief as it was a long story. Get a laugh at my expense
Back in May I went to a car show with my Corvette club at Daytona (at Daytona1 opposite speedway). I was in a office building parking lot and when I left the car would not start or turn over due to a VATS event. The security light was on solid and tried for an hour hoping it would start eventually. Did all the cleaning and anything I could think of but nothing changed. I was then by myself, hundreds of cars gone and 60 miles from Orlando.
So called AAA and was strung along and waiting for 7 hours till the tow driver texted me he was broken down. AAA said they could do nothing till morning (leaving a lot out). I spent the night in the car and in a nice Fairfield hotel lobby as he let me stay as there was nothing I could do, no tools or test equipment.
So finally a tow truck driver arrived about 9:30 AM and got home at 11:00AM. Very nice guy and even helped push the car into the garage. 19 hours to get home, no sleep.
Now here's the good part. At home started a base of steering column. Got to the connector for the key (pellet) and made a resistance check with the key in ignition. The reading was open. Then I made a continuity check of each wire that went to the key pellet contacts. One of the wires had no continuity and was open. Probably due to the turning of the lock cylinder one wire broke or at least that’s the theory I'm going with. So I made up a trim pot (adjustable resistor) I had and set it to the correct resistance, installed it and the car started as the CCM was happy now. So that's how it is now, all is good (as some would say VATS if bypassed but electrically all is still functional) and haven't decided if I want to replace the lock cylinder and get new 3 keys.
So I made up a trim pot (adjustable resistor) I had and set it to the correct resistance, installed it and the car started as the CCM was happy now. So that's how it is now, all is good (as some would say VATS if bypassed but electrically all is still functional) and haven't decided if I want to replace the lock cylinder and get new 3 keys.
That works! That is what I did to finally "prove" what the issue was. I couldn't believe it when it started. (2nd try/resistance value)
Vats info for u i saw your questions
