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I thought I would follow up that this year I completed my first Autocross season with this set up with no issues. I'm running a 383 SBC that makes a bit more than 400 HP. I'm running Kumho Autocross 315's and or Hooser Slicks. I'm using the Ram basic Clutch single Steel Flywheel with the basic organic Disc. I would be hard pressed to understand why any street driven C4 would need more clutch than what I'm using.
Just an update after a year of use. Limited Street use and 5 Autocross events with a Strong 383 and sticky 315 Hooser Tires. During the Winter wile changing out the Rear End I thought I would pull the Clutch just to have a Look at it. Both Flywheel and Pressure Plate looked good, but the Disc was nearly worn to the Rivets. When I told Ram Tech the thickness of the Disc they couldn't believe it wasn't slipping. In the Past I have said that all You need for a performance built is the basic Organic Disc, but I have changed my Tune! I sent my Disc to Ram, and they Rebuilt it with what they call their HD Power Grip material on both sides. I knocked off the Glazing on the Flywheel and Pressure Plate on my Lathe with a Disc Sander and installed my refurbished Disc with their Puck Style Pads. Did my first Auto Cross today after 25 miles street break in and all was good. I was expecting a Grabbier harder to control feel to it, but I can say that if I didn't change it myself, I would swear that nothing at all was done, and the car drives exactly as it did with the organic Disc.
Performing my conversion this weekend weather permitting. The throwout bearing slides on the input shaft sleeve easily but it is tight. I’m thinking of installing it on the trans before mating the trans to the bellhousing and fishing the hydraulic lines through the clutch fork opening. I don’t see how I’ll be able to push the trout out bearing in place through one hole.
also - I’ve read posts that a clutch pedal limiter is needed. No instructions provided by RAM in the box.