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Man.
Sorry, to hear that.
I'm sure it's simple. Oversight
At this point. The TH kit is plug & play.
Mine fired up instantly.. super smooth. My only issue was the base tune, ZF pulse, Fans not kicking in.
But. I purchased at the threshold of proto/ release date. I know that kit should be perfected. Now.
Paul is great to work with. Shipping to CAN. Is not fun. Did that once.
Ok, back to basics. You must have a scan tool.
Or HP tuner basic. OBD II to USB cable. to data log?
At least to validate PCM parameters.
Some of your dash functions are lost with the TH kit.
No scanner or HP Tuners... how much and where can I get the software and cables. What dash functions do I lose because I was under the impression that I wouldn't lose any
EFI .. must have.
Quickest. Resolution. To eliminate online ship time.
Local store. That has a OBD II scanner. Due to the fact you converted to OBD II. Simple is ok. More advanced is best. Like datalog.
You will need to datalog everyday. Start, idle, part - WOT. Especially when you connect. Boost.
If i were you. Get a wideband. Install. Pre turbo.
The wide band is invaluable.
EFI .. must have.
Quickest. Resolution. To eliminate online ship time.
Local store. That has a OBD II scanner. Due to the fact you converted to OBD II. Simple is ok. More advanced is best. Like datalog.
You will need to datalog everyday. Start, idle, part - WOT. Especially when you connect. Boost.
If i were you. Get a wideband. Install. Pre turbo.
The wide band is invaluable.
Two kits. Pro kit with a adapter to montior a Wideband while datalogging. Fantastic feature.
Standard kit. Cannot convert. However. They allow a trade- up credit.
Your choice.
Software is licensed per PCM = pay for other PCMs.
But you currently only need to tune one PCM.
Cost effective.
or way more money for a series of models. Price is per credit.
1 credit = $49.95.
The ALDL cable you can find places like CATS, tunerpro.
Two styles to choose OBD I solo cable
Or a Y cable to use on both OBD I & II
I have the Y cable from CATS. Industrial quality very thick. This current cable price. is double. Compared when i purchased. Mine.
I know mine works with. Datamaster and of course HP tuner.
Hopefully this helps out a bit.
Last edited by THE 383 admiral; Oct 1, 2022 at 07:48 PM.
No scanner or HP Tuners... how much and where can I get the software and cables. What dash functions do I lose because I was under the impression that I wouldn't lose any
my last understanding.
The downside. Calculations like Diag codes from dash, the driver information system/ Trip monitor Avg MPG & related. Non existent. Due to CCC connection.
Unless a recent revision was made?
This sucks. After tuning the factory PCM.
Nobody will/ would believe my average MPG
Do you have a timing light. Just place the PU. Coil on your wires. You should see spark from the flashing strobe light. Alot easier and safe.
This system should still fire without the crank sensor.
The cam sensor is critical.
My experience was opposite. I bad Crank sensor the car will have no spark. A bad cam sensor, or broken cam reluctor ring the car will fire but be hard to start and have a check engine light for low resolution.
How tight does the crank sensor need to be to the wheel because the way I have it setup there is a little drag on the tape... I sent these pics to Paul and he said they looked good... so a bad crank sensor will cause no spark?
The clearance/ gap looks perfect.
Just enough contact to feel drag/ Resistance.
Re-read from TH my previous is backwards
Straight from TH
***Crank sensor spark critical***
"The crankshaft reluctor has 24 unique pulses per 360 degrees of engine rotation that the Gen 3 PCM interprets to know engine position. This is where the "24x" terminology/saying comes from.
**** Cam sensor spark on / off****
The camshaft reluctor provides what is called the "1x" signal because it is either on or off for 360 degrees of engine rotation. The camshaft reluctor allows the PCM to know an important piece of information.....whether a given cylinder is on its firing stroke or intake stroke"
End result. Your coils are connected, good fuse? proper crank sensor gap. NO spark.
Unknown reason points to the crank sensor.
What did Paul say. Besides the crank sensor gap looks good.
The clearance/ gap looks perfect.
Just enough contact to feel drag/ Resistance.
Re-read from TH my previous is backwards
Straight from TH
***Crank sensor spark critical***
"The crankshaft reluctor has 24 unique pulses per 360 degrees of engine rotation that the Gen 3 PCM interprets to know engine position. This is where the "24x" terminology/saying comes from.
**** Cam sensor spark on / off****
The camshaft reluctor provides what is called the "1x" signal because it is either on or off for 360 degrees of engine rotation. The camshaft reluctor allows the PCM to know an important piece of information.....whether a given cylinder is on its firing stroke or intake stroke"
End result. Your coils are connected, good fuse? proper crank sensor gap. NO spark.
Unknown reason points to the crank sensor.
What did Paul say. Besides the crank sensor gap looks good.
I showed him the picture when I was putting everything together because I thought the slight drag notation on the directions was a little vague. He just said it looked correct.
Fuse 25 and 30 are both good... I think I may have a bad crank position sensor. Can I buy a new one at the parts store for this? What's the part number for it?
