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Hi guys,
I’m in the UK and trying to fathom a stalling problem which may or may not be transmission related any help would be greatly appreciated.
Engine, gearbox, running gear and electrics all come from a 1990 C4 now residing in my 1951 3100 truck.
The issue is as follows:
Engine fires up and runs fine in park and neutral, however when I engage reverse or drive and remove my foot from the brake pedal the truck moves for a short distance and then the engine slowly runs down and stalls.
Put it back into neutral or park and she fires straight back up, back into gear same problem.
Thankyou in advance
Hi guys,
I’m in the UK and trying to fathom a stalling problem which may or may not be transmission related any help would be greatly appreciated.
Engine, gearbox, running gear and electrics all come from a 1990 C4 now residing in my 1951 3100 truck.
The issue is as follows:
Engine fires up and runs fine in park and neutral, however when I engage reverse or drive and remove my foot from the brake pedal the truck moves for a short distance and then the engine slowly runs down and stalls.
Put it back into neutral or park and she fires straight back up, back into gear same problem.
Thankyou in advance
A little more detail would be helpful.
1. Is this a new build you are commissioning or did things work and then manifest itself?
2. What happens if you give it some throttle and attempt to drive?
3. Have you tried removing the electrical connector?
A TCC locking up somehow is first in my thoughts but better information is needed. Fill us in, the bandwidth is free.
Hi,
when I bought the corvette and drove it home it never stalled but I don’t think the trans was great it had a lot of miles and the oil smelt disgusting.
when removed the trans I drained it fitted a new filter, cleaned everything, painted the casing before installing.
on it’s first shakedown run it drove up the lane and back and then stalled as I pulled into the drive.
From stopping and starting etc I just managed to get it into the workshop.
When it’s dropping off revs before stalling the throttle doesn’t seem to pull it back, it just stalls.
Hi,
when I bought the corvette and drove it home it never stalled but I don’t think the trans was great it had a lot of miles and the oil smelt disgusting.
when removed the trans I drained it fitted a new filter, cleaned everything, painted the casing before installing.
on it’s first shakedown run it drove up the lane and back and then stalled as I pulled into the drive.
From stopping and starting etc I just managed to get it into the workshop.
When it’s dropping off revs before stalling the throttle doesn’t seem to pull it back, it just stalls.
Question 3, do you mean the fwd plug on the gearbox.
Do I start the car with the plug disconnected and see what happens or am I checking for corrosion on the pins etc as the plug has been disconnected and reinstalled when I had the trans on the bench.
Question 3, do you mean the fwd plug on the gearbox.
Do I start the car with the plug disconnected and see what happens or am I checking for corrosion on the pins etc as the plug has been disconnected and reinstalled when I had the trans on the bench.
Yes, unplug it and try and drive it. If it travels, then that potentially rules out a hydraulic problem. You saying it does not stall when your foot is on the brake points to an electrical fault because doing this opens the + feed to the transmission.
PS: While you are under there, write down the model number from the back right pan rail so I can look up the electrical schematic for your trans.
Sounds like TCC lockup, but that should not be possible in fist gear even if commanded by solenoid.
The brake switch should disengage lockup solenoid and you said that you could shift into gear without stalling if you keep the brake engaged.
If the ECU side of TCC control is shorted to ground, and there is another problem making the transmission start in second or third, this would explain the problem.
Sounds like TCC lockup, but that should not be possible in fist gear even if commanded by solenoid.
The brake switch should disengage lockup solenoid and you said that you could shift into gear without stalling if you keep the brake engaged.
If the ECU side of TCC control is shorted to ground, and there is another problem making the transmission start in second or third, this would explain the problem.
Agreed. That is why I asked him to disconnect the control cable from the transmission. If it drives normal then it is electrical which I already suspect. He said he had the pan off to change the fluid. Possibly the + wire is somehow grounding out. It would be a weird situation though as it only effects the car when placed in gear which means the grounding would have to be done by contacting some portion of the shift linkage. This one is interesting.
Agreed. That is why I asked him to disconnect the control cable from the transmission. If it drives normal then it is electrical which I already suspect. He said he had the pan off to change the fluid. Possibly the + wire is somehow grounding out. It would be a weird situation though as it only effects the car when placed in gear which means the grounding would have to be done by contacting some portion of the shift linkage. This one is interesting.
Yes, but it cannot be only electrical because even if the TCC solenoid is engaged it should not be able to lock until second gear or higher. This is the hydraulic design of the valve body. So transmission might start in higher than first, or some other internal problem that makes it possible to engage TCC in first.
Hi Arbee,
I have just tried removing the fwd electrical plug on the transmission.
The truck did not want to move, the number on the case of the transmission is 8663551.
Cheers Russ
Hi Arbee,
I have just tried removing the fwd electrical plug on the transmission.
The truck did not want to move, the number on the case of the transmission is 8663551.
Cheers Russ
That is not the number needed. It should start with a number followed by a two or 3 letter string.
Hi guys, thanks for your input.
1) I will find the ident number as requested
2) Fit a fuel pressure gauge to the rail and see if the pressure drops off when it stalls out.
A further detail that may be important is when reverse or drive is engaged and I release the foot brake the car creeps along for a short distance as expected before it runs down to stall?
I have also kept abs in the equation not sure if this may have any input?
Hi guys,
checked for the transmission I’d number but could not find one on any part of the transmission casting that picks up the pan and I viewed this from the top with the tunnel removed.