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My driver side headlight worked fine one minute the next it quit working all together the passenger still works fine. It has brand new motors. Any ideas?
is it moving at all? may have to have someone turn the headlights on while you stand outside to see/listen. You can also put a test light on the plug and watch what happens when turned on.
If good power, good ground, good gears, good motor it will work
Also check linkage for binding. You said motor is new, did everything get assembled in correct position?
is it moving at all? may have to have someone turn the headlights on while you stand outside to see/listen. You can also put a test light on the plug and watch what happens when turned on.
If good power, good ground, good gears, good motor it will work
Also check linkage for binding. You said motor is new, did everything get assembled in correct position?
everything when it perfect it worked about 20-30 times and stopped it’s still getting power just fine but the motor doesn’t even kick on or make any sound
Unplug the connector from the motor that isn't working. Use jumpers to apply battery power directly to the motor. See if the motor moves. If it does then you probably have a bad ripple current or isolation relay. This happened on mine with new motors. The contact in the relay was passing voltage, but corrosion on the contact face was bad enough that it couldn't pass enough current to allow the motor to move. I ended up replacing both of the factory relays with a new relay box and two standard 5 pin relays and a toggle switch. It works so much better now.
Unplug the connector from the motor that isn't working. Use jumpers to apply battery power directly to the motor. See if the motor moves. If it does then you probably have a bad ripple current or isolation relay. This happened on mine with new motors. The contact in the relay was passing voltage, but corrosion on the contact face was bad enough that it couldn't pass enough current to allow the motor to move. I ended up replacing both of the factory relays with a new relay box and two standard 5 pin relays and a toggle switch. It works so much better now.
I’ll give it a shot this weekend and see working 5 12s I don’t have any time to do anything but I’ll update you this weekend.
I’ll give it a shot this weekend and see working 5 12s I don’t have any time to do anything but I’ll update you this weekend.
I feel your pain. I worked 5 12's for a lot of years. I don't miss that one bit. It sucked real bad when I did it on swing shift. Going back and forth between day and night shift almost killed me.
Unplug the connector from the motor that isn't working. Use jumpers to apply battery power directly to the motor. See if the motor moves. If it does then you probably have a bad ripple current or isolation relay. This happened on mine with new motors. The contact in the relay was passing voltage, but corrosion on the contact face was bad enough that it couldn't pass enough current to allow the motor to move. I ended up replacing both of the factory relays with a new relay box and two standard 5 pin relays and a toggle switch. It works so much better now.
The system in the 84 is completely different than what is in the 92. The 84 used multiple relays while the 92 has a headlight controller.
The system in the 84 is completely different than what is in the 92. The 84 used multiple relays while the 92 has a headlight controller.
True, I forgot about that. I would still apply power directly to the motor as a test. At least it would eliminate the motor being the problem. Or it will verify that the motor is the problem.
bad but not broken connection (voltage vs amperage) if one of the relays/connectors does have a bad connection, it could show voltage and still fail under load (amperage). applying current direct to the motor will eliminate all the relays and connections as a source.