L98 shuts off when cornering hard
I assume it has something to do with the gas sloshing away from the fuel pump. Is there a fix for this?
It’s an automatic so I have to completely stop in traffic to put it in park and re start the engine. It always starts back immediately but it’s pretty unsafe.
1987 l98




Above 1/3 tank and it didn't have the problem..
There is a thread on the forum with pictures where someone made a baffle that attached to the fuel pump that allowed them to run the tank pretty dang low and still track and corner hard without fuel cutouts.
@VikingTrad3r might recall
There is a yellow plastic baffle in the fuel tank that the sock sits in. I thought that would be enough to stop the sloshing.
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I assume it has something to do with the gas sloshing away from the fuel pump. Is there a fix for this?
It’s an automatic so I have to completely stop in traffic to put it in park and re start the engine. It always starts back immediately but it’s pretty unsafe.
1987 l98
here are @Kubs pics he sent me years ago.
Kubs hope u dont mind me sharing your oics and what you stated:
“”Yes the bottle is one of the tall style Lucas Oil gear lube bottles cut in half (or there abouts). I drilled a 3/8" hold in the bottom and the side about halfway up, and also have the return line feeding into the bottle.
Yes, I have been able to run it dry. You need to pull the yellow tray out of the bottom of the tank and the bottle will sit on the bottom. You will be able to use every drop in the tank.””





I made sure to direct the fuel return discharge directly onto the sock of the primary (always-on) pump and it made no difference
next, i swapped the wiring for which was the primary pump vs. booster pump and it didnt matter whether it was the top pump or bottom pump - i still get starvation issues below 10 gallons on cornering.
i callled up racetronix and they suggested i buy some foam and put in the bottom of the tank to the right and left of the fuel pickup bucket
Holley Hydramat isnt really a good option because
1. its a wear-item and its expensive. >$250 if i remember right and thats just for 1 pump filter (which might be all i need)
2. i dont believe they make any models of it with the correct outler size to match my rxp340 pump inlet(s)
ive compared the hanger/filter location of the old walbro 450 l/hr pump to that of the primary pumps filter location on the dual rxp340 (with starvation issues ) and i didnt notice anything different. Its (the 450 l/hr) return tube discharge was directed onto its sock filter but again that didnt make any difference when i did that with the rxp 340’s.
ive tried bigger fuel socks that span more of the width of the bucket, and that made no difference
and again, it doesnt matter whether i wire the top or bottom pump as the prinary (or always-on) pump. That makes no difference, it still fuel starves on cornering below 10 gallons
ive enclosed a photo of my current fuel pump setup (with starvation issues)
the only other odd thing is the new pump setup (with Herko stainless hanger and fuel level sender) always tells me i have much less gas in there than i actually do
that said, ive pushed the limits of running it down to ‘E’ and dont notice it running out of gas early. Just starvation on turns
if anybody has any ideas. LMK
i may try the foam, but would hate for that to cut down on my fuel fank useable capacity (for trips)
Last edited by dizwiz24; Jun 5, 2023 at 09:39 PM.
(ex. Breaks down and clogs a filter)
why am i the first to mention it
my only other experience with foam was:
i had special methanol resistant foam in my ATL well cell tank for the methanol sprayer.
and the 100% methanol still stained ‘yellow’ and left deposits on my sprayer nozzle. Its a fine nozzle that can eventually clog with deposits.
so i pulled the foam out. No more staining of the methanol
(im told methanol is the worst of the worst) as far as corrosiveness.















