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So I’ve been rebuilding my ‘88 L98 after a spun rod bearing.
I didn’t prime the oil until I already had everything installed. I spun the oil pump and a ton of oil spewed out of the radiator. I haven’t a clue of what I missed and I’m devastated. Frankly, embarrassed to even air it here, as I look back and realize I should have primed the galleys before I got it off the stand.
So now I’m suspicious that I routed the soft hose wrong. Does anyone have pics or can point me to the section in the FSM that might show me the right route? Here’s where I attached the soft hose
So now I’m suspicious that I routed the soft hose wrong. Does anyone have pics or can point me to the section in the FSM that might show me the right route? Here’s where I attached the soft hose
Look at it this way, better to find out now then when you first tried to start it. We have all been there at some point, even if we don't want to admit it.
Water pump seals don't appreciate oil. If the system can be isolated to only the oil contaminated components and cleaned that would be ideal. But if not, residual oil may become an issue.
The reason I recommended Cascade (similar dishwasher detergent should work as well) is because it doesn't foam like a regular detergent i.e. Dawn would. You can use it in a running cooling system without ending up like Bobby Brady and the whole box of laundry detergent.
Water pump seals don't appreciate oil. If the system can be isolated to only the oil contaminated components and cleaned that would be ideal. But if not, residual oil may become an issue...
I’m wondering if I should drain the oil. I filled the coolant first (ie no oil in the engine ) and it took two gallons of coolant. That second gallon took a while to fill, as I’d fill to the top, level would slowly drop, fill again, drop, etc. I just assumed that was because of air gaps and restriction of the thermostat. But now I’m wondering if the coolant could have flowed into the engine oil passage through that oil temp port.
I suppose I’m going to find out anyway when I remove that hose to fix my mistake. Probably wiser to just drain the oil and check the filter anyway.
I got it fixed. Drained the oil, no contamination. Filled with 4.5 qts oil. Spin the oil pump and there’s a bit of resistance. Is there any way of telling if the oil is flowing without taking off the valve covers?
There should be some resistance, if you want you can just crank the motor with distributor hot wire disconnected and see if you have oil pressure or pull the distributor and use a priming tool.
Originally Posted by Shunyun
I got it fixed. Drained the oil, no contamination. Filled with 4.5 qts oil. Spin the oil pump and there’s a bit of resistance. Is there any way of telling if the oil is flowing without taking off the valve covers?
Yeah, the pump should provide enough resistance (once primed) that it can be difficult to hold the drill (a good corded drill), and it should REALLY bog the drill down.
If the drill is whirring along w/low load, keep priming.
You could pull the oil pressure sensor to see if you got oil...but be warned; when it starts pumping, it's gonna be a geyser! You could also pull the same plug that you had plumbed to before, in your pic above.
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Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jun 22, 2023 at 10:03 AM.
Disaster.
