Ive toyed with the idea of a solid axle conversion - if i want to put down the power level that I want to

that said, here is an example of a solid axle - gone wrong

(ive heard some of the c4 solid axle conversions rely on ‘nuts’ off fhe rear stabilzer bar mounts. Yikes. )

how do i avoid this from happening?

 

Yeah, I owned a 69 Dart Swinger GTS 340 many years ago. As long as you don't build your car with the rusty metal found (and ignored) in so many old muscle cars these days, you'll be fine. Those cars are renowned for barely staying on the road with all the rust underneath them. A good set of spring hangers and pitman arms, mounted solidly to the frame should be good enough for your purposes. Get some advice from locals who have built drag car frames before you start.
Loved the music, though!

 

Not sure if your question is serious.
Any competent chassis shop can fab up a solid axle. A forum member used to make a bolt-in kit also.

I have a 9" 4-link wishbone in my 92. If I was to do it over I would go 3-link similar to an older Shelby Mustang. Will (with white Corvette) also runs a 3-link. The 3 link can be set up to handle good and still be great at the drag strip.

Attached are photos of my 1992 with 26" and 28" tires

 

3 Link here.

 

Don't use leaf springs or anything Mopar when you do your conversion ... AKA ... don't hunt for the cheapest hillbilly way to do **** on your car !

 

93 ragtop warned that one of the forum members here was selling a solid axle comversion that used wingnuts off the rear stabilizer bar as prt of its mount. Im not sure if that has been corrected - but this video is what im trying to avoid with that type of conversion

ive built a mean blown, nitrous 1993 c4 6spd and tune it myself. Ive overcome many hurdles on that path.


Oh yeah….Bullying has been out of style since about 1988, im not intimidated

 

You have a couple of choices for the rear suspension.

Tbe Carroll's Rodcraft 4 link works great. Bolts right in and realistically its the only choice that you can go buy and install yourself. Its a quality kit and one of the simplest installs available. I know a guy that has the kit under his C4 that races NMCA LSx crate class and it works excellent. His car runs 9s with a 500hp LS3 sealed crate engine.... The only things I'm not positive about is the shocks they supply... Depending on power and the surfaces you planned on using, you might need some custom valved shocks and maybe a bigger rear ARB... both pretty inexpensive upgrades in the grand scheme of something like this.

Anything else will be custom fabricated. You better do your research on the chassis shop you take your C4 to for this kind of work..... and be prepared to wait because quality race car fabricators are guaranteed to have a waiting list. That said you have your choice of suspension design with a custom built rear suspension. Parallel 4 link, F Body TQ Arm 3 link, S197 Mustang 3 link, Foxbody, GM A or G Body triangulated 4 link, Leafsprings... all of these designs can be made to work unbelievably well. There are advantages and disadvantages to each.... My car has the S197 style 3 link for packaging and "stock suspension" class rules reasons but any of these others can be made to work as well as my car. Best to talk with the shops your considering for the work because after the work is done they are your first outlet for setup and tuning advice/help.
Will