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Drag racing didnt go the way i hoped.
While I got my fastest time, on boost alone (no nitrous).
11.5 @ 123.6 , my nitrous runs spun the clutch disk (spec stage 3+) broke loose once the nitrous (75 shot) hit.
its odd though the clutch can handle a burn-out (with line lock on), but it cant handle a nitrous hit.
looks like i will be putting in a new clutch this winter.
(any advice? SPEC makes a twin-disk where one hub is sprung-hub . That might be what im leaning towards)
Despite having mickey thomson et street r’s in 315/35r17, im still making awful, but rear-end safe,
2.0 60 ft times.
in fact, im now wondering if prior runs i did in years past, on this clutch, where i thought my tires were what was spinning.., it was this clutch spinning at launch instead. i had just assumed i had bad technique, but in reality a mechanical failure wasnt allowing me to take full advantage of a good launch and instead influences me to ‘bog’ vs. spin and completely ruin a run.
My current technique is hold rpms around 3200 rpm and ease off the clutch while giving it some gas once the light hits the last yellow. I included a video of the clutch spin runs (where i immediately let off in 1st and 2nd when it happens - and just coast in)
ive also included a timeslip for the 1 good run i had (no nitrous, just boost) in a reply to this thread.
i also dont get good datalogs (datacat) off the stock 1993 ECM during drag racing for some reason.
it will record idle conditions, highway pulls, etc. but for some reason always craps out / or doesnt have the resolution to capture drag pulls. Esp 1st gear where stuff happens fast. I may go to a Holley ECU at some point and be able to do all i want.
beware that 2018 mustang 5.0’s with a Lund Racing tune, 10spd auto, and E85 (no boost or anything like that) run 11.6’s (with 1.7 60 ft times on mickey thomspon et street r)
i also saw a 2009 corvette z06 with cam, headers and the same 315/35r17 mickey thompson et street r’s i have, running 11.2’s. He said he’s never been able to get it in the 10s - despite what people say his car should be able to do.
ive got work to do this winter. So if anyone has any advice on clutch, id like to hear
I don't have any advice on the clutch-but just wanted to say it's probably been slipping for awhile-with your combo when you sort the clutch I'm betting you'll be in the solid 10's no problem
What is the torque rating for the SPEC stage III+ clutch, you most likely have to step up to a higher level assuming no mechanical issues are causing your problem.
The 2.0 60ft is slow, so once you have that dialed in you should get a much better time.
What is the torque rating for the SPEC stage III+ clutch, you most likely have to step up to a higher level assuming no mechanical issues are causing your problem.
The 2.0 60ft is slow, so once you have that dialed in you should get a much better time.
i wamna say its rated way higher than the 625 rwtq max or so i prib make spraying nitrous
like rated somewhere around 850 max rwtq
what I do know about that clutch is:
1. Its old , installed 2011 but prob only 30k miles on it
2. Zfdoc and some others posted that the spec pressure plates they are using dont have even clamp force distribution and he has a method he uses to tweak and check them. No idea if thats an issue
i pulled the flex plate and nothing (ex. Rear main seal) seems to be leaking on it or anything like that
Diz ... How many Teslas have manual transmissions ? And 10-speed auto Mustangs don't need boost to keep up with you ? Don't buy a clutch ... get a 6L90E with a performance converter .
Diz ... How many Teslas have manual transmissions ? And 10-speed auto Mustangs don't need boost to keep up with you ? Don't buy a clutch ... get a 6L90E with a performance converter .
id go with a sequential manual gearbox - like this guy did
Diz ... How many Teslas have manual transmissions ? And 10-speed auto Mustangs don't need boost to keep up with you ? Don't buy a clutch ... get a 6L90E with a performance converter .
id go with a sequential manual gearbox - like this guy did
Yeah ... he isn't drag racing ... and he has LS power .....
Grubbworm wont run an LS - bc it’d either break or he’d lose (according to him his filled Buick station wagon factory lt1 block is stronger than those)
Google up the Hoonicorn , guy has his 14 yr daughter driving it , defeating a Plaid (that tried to cheat and jump the light) , while manually shifting it.
Ok, good runs. In my 1990 (with a 4l8OE trans) I have run the best of 11.54@120.xx with an average 60ft time of 1.68. my best 60ft was 1.60 on a cold day (Jan/Feb) at Orlando Speed World. After spending 6 months plus i went from 1.90 to a low of 1.60 tunning QA1 shocks ( the original factroy shocks were not helping). I'am only making 525hp @ crank and 418hp to the rear with the 4l8OE trans. Foot braking @ 2500 rpm and trans in 3rd gear shifts automatically at 6800 rpm. Front tires hooziers 275/17 LT are set @40lbs and M/T 315's are set at @ 17lbs .I know that I'am losing at lot of power thru the 4l8OE transmission. Most of my runs on average are 11.74 to 11.77 @ 118.xx.
I just replaced my old transmission controller (compushift 1) wth a new compushift sport controller. There is a lot to learn with this new controller
John
When my car was a manual, I had my best runs when the clutch was going out.
interesting! , ill go back to the track this wknd (weather permitting) and run it (no nitrous, just boost)
at least if clutch is going out, then theres prob no way i could wreck the IRS
I also got my crappy mickey thompson et street r’s warrantied out yesterday due to high balance weights ((> 5 oz) and vibration with a new set. I wanna try the new ones out
Grubbworm wont run an LS - bc it’d either break or he’d lose (according to him his filled Buick station wagon factory lt1 block is stronger than those)
Google up the Hoonicorn , guy has his 14 yr daughter driving it , defeating a Plaid (that tried to cheat and jump the light) , while manually shifting it.
Drag racing
