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Alright so I know that it’s a vat’s malfunction and my no crank no start, but since it’s a 1990 corvette the vats is programmed into the ecm. I don’t own a fsm for my vette yet, anyone with some knowledge is greatly appreciated.
Alright so I know that it’s a vat’s malfunction and my no crank no start, but since it’s a 1990 corvette the vats is programmed into the ecm. I don’t own a fsm for my vette yet, anyone with some knowledge is greatly appreciated.
If you have a second key, try that first.
But basically code 46 the CCM and ECM are not communicating on circuit 229
If you have the car titled, you can take the registration or title + corresponding personal ID to a GM dealer and ask that they do what's called a 'Key Call'. For a '90 I believe it would include original key numbers and also the code for the 'resistance'. Dealers will NOT do it without ID and they do generally charge for it. If the key cylinder has ever been replaced then that key code wouldn't work but 'very seldom' is the 'resistance' ever changed. I believe you could rely on the resistance. To confirm the key code have them or a locksmith cut a brass 'work key' and confirm rotation before doing a resistance key.
If you have the car titled, you can take the registration or title + corresponding personal ID to a GM dealer and ask that they do what's called a 'Key Call'. For a '90 I believe it would include original key numbers and also the code for the 'resistance'. Dealers will NOT do it without ID and they do generally charge for it. If the key cylinder has ever been replaced then that key code wouldn't work but 'very seldom' is the 'resistance' ever changed. I believe you could rely on the resistance. To confirm the key code have them or a locksmith cut a brass 'work key' and confirm rotation before doing a resistance key.
Well a little while back I had a resistance problem and had my cylinder replaced, could it possibly be because i didn’t ‘program’ my key/key cylinder
If you changed the cylinder it would have come with a 'work key' to only rotate and you should have had a new resistance key cut to that mechanical cut. Are you still just trying the key that came with it? Do you have your old key still? If you can measure the resiatance of the old key get a new key cut to match the mechanical of the new and the resistance value of the old.
If you changed the cylinder it would have come with a 'work key' to only rotate and you should have had a new resistance key cut to that mechanical cut. Are you still just trying the key that came with it? Do you have your old key still? If you can measure the resiatance of the old key get a new key cut to match the mechanical of the new and the resistance value of the old.
No, I tested my ‘work key’ to make sure my cylinder rotated then got my new keys cut, same resistance and all.
No, I didn’t get a crank or a start? Got any ideas?
If it ran previously(with old cylinder) then either the connector at the steering column base isn't connected, you've torn the wires to the bottom of the column while routing them OR a bad resistance key. Was this a 'For Hire' repair or a DIY?
If it ran previously(with old cylinder) then either the connector at the steering column base isn't connected, you've torn the wires to the bottom of the column while routing them OR a bad resistance key. Was this a 'For Hire' repair or a DIY?
DIY, I inspected the column before and after, shouldn’t have any torn wires and my cylinder is connected properly.
DIY, I inspected the column before and after, shouldn’t have any torn wires and my cylinder is connected properly.
If you bought your cylinder 'local' ask them to maybe loan you for diagnostics another. Connect the 'loaner' to the connector at the base of the column, insert a known good resistance key in the cylinder and use the key in the column now for crank. That's a very simple bypass for testing. If a tourist had an issue in the past we would suggest this vs a steering column disassembly to do a repair if their pockets were light! The 'loaner' doesn't need to rotate it just need to provide the resistance through the connector.
Use a resistor to bypass if that works. How did you determine the key resistance you used was correct? Do you have the old key(s) still? Use that key in the 'loaner' cylinder!
If you bought your cylinder 'local' ask them to maybe loan you for diagnostics another. Connect the 'loaner' to the connector at the base of the column, insert a known good resistance key in the cylinder and use the key in the column now for crank. That's a very simple bypass for testing. If a tourist had an issue in the past we would suggest this vs a steering column disassembly to do a repair if their pockets were light! The 'loaner' doesn't need to rotate it just need to provide the resistance through the connector.
My issue with that is I wasn’t able to buy locally and had it shipped since I live on one of the Hawaiian islands
My issue with that is I wasn’t able to buy locally and had it shipped since I live on one of the Hawaiian islands
Do you still have the old cylinder? If the wires aren't torn or an issue you could check the resistance of the connection with a meter. You could try that. Check the resistance of the key using the wires at the base of the column. How do you know you had a correct key resistance cut?
Do you still have the old cylinder? If the wires aren't torn or an issue you could check the resistance of the connection with a meter. You could try that. Check the resistance of the key using the wires at the base of the column. How do you know you had a correct key resistance cut?
Checked both my bought keys and my original cylinder keys with a multimeter. I’ll try the old cylinder in a bit.
Key in on position displays a solid security light
So resistance does not match expected value in CCM.
Original key in cylinder, is security light on or off?
Is this a new car to you?
Did it ever run previously?
How was VATS code determined off your old key
So resistance does not match expected value in CCM.
Original key in cylinder, is security light on or off?
Is this a new car to you?
Did it ever run previously?
How was VATS code determined off your old key
New cylinder original key won’t fit the new cylinder
Corvettes aren’t new to me but the c4 vats is very new to me
it ran previously but it wasn’t reading the keys resistance correctly triggering vats so i replaced the cylinder. Prior to replacing the cylinder I had one good start pulled it into my garage then it went dormant, no crank no start. That’s when I changed my ignition cylinder. Prior to this code I had the active code where the injectors weren’t getting the signal to pulse but now it’s the VATS malfunction.