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Will this https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...nes/391370_0_0 or any other of this style of harmonic balancer puller work on the lt1? I have spent days trying the 2x4 method mentioned in previous threads and it won't work as my engine won't turn. I cannot find any finger pullers small enough to fit between the engine and crossmember, and this seems much easier if possible.
Does your engine still run? I have never done this but have read about it. What people have done is reinstall the 3 bolts but leave them a full turn loose. Start the engine and blip the throttle. Some have said that will loosen it. My 96 took me 6 hours of knocking before it finally came loose. Dan EDIT: Sorry, I missed the part where your engine won't turn.
Does your engine still run? I have never done this but have read about it. What people have done is reinstall the 3 bolts but leave them a full turn loose. Start the engine and blip the throttle. Some have said that will loosen it. My 96 took me 6 hours of knocking before it finally came loose. Dan
I don't fully recommend this but it does work when done with care, like said loose contact back off a bit and a quick snap and shut down
Will this https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...nes/391370_0_0 or any other of this style of harmonic balancer puller work on the lt1? I have spent days trying the 2x4 method mentioned in previous threads and it won't work as my engine won't turn. I cannot find any finger pullers small enough to fit between the engine and crossmember, and this seems much easier if possible.
I had trouble with getting my balancer off too. the 2x4 method didn't work nor did shocking it with a hammer. I had to use a puller.
But it was still tricky. I had to use a grinder to round off that square end so that it would fit inside my harmonic balancer. Then, I had to go to Ace to get some washers and nuts. I put a socket the size of the hub bolt into the middle portion (so the puller is pushing against that rather than the hub bolt), then I put bolts through the puller and to the other side of the balancer, then put a washer and a nut on the end of the bolt to get the puller to actually pull the balancer--this last part is tricky to do, I had to turn the engine some to be able to get to some of the bolts, and I have small hands. Only then was I able to pull the balancer off (the main puller bolt should fit through the steering rack lines fine and even if it's uncomfortable you can get a ratchet wrench down there). Good luck, and don't forget to put anti-seize on your balancer when you reinstall it so this doesn't repeat itself.
Edit: I missed the part where you said your engine won't turn. I don't know that this will work for you if you can't turn the engine to get behind all three openings in the balancer. Even so, this is the best I got.
Last edited by pattydaone; Sep 9, 2024 at 04:29 PM.
I'm at this spot with my LT4. Not sure what you're after, but once you get the pulley off... then it would be awesome to get it out of there to have more room. I've got the pulley off and there is not enough clearance to get it out from between the crank hub and the cross member. I'm trying to get to the timing cover to replace the gasket. I want to pull the hub off. Such a tiny space, really sore hands/knuckles trying to get the puller on/off with and without the pulley on.
I've read to get the pulley off, one of two things... take the Optispark off first, or, jack the engine up an inch or two. I removed the engine mount nuts (I can find two?) but with a 2x4 block on the jack under the oil pan, the whole front of the car goes up, not just the engine. Maybe the Optispark off first is best, haven't tried that yet. Anyone have an answer to this? It would be so much easier to work without the pulley there. I'm not convinced there is enough room to use the puller on the pulley AND the hub at the same time and have it all come out together in that tiny space. I do have the hub bolt out currently.
Good luck and keep us posted. If you plan to do this often, the Kent Moore J-39046 crankshaft hub remover is built specifically for this engine.
Anyone have an answer to this? It would be so much easier to work without the pulley there.
Mike
I haven't done it, but the guy that wrote up the optispark and water pump replacement thread ( https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pictures.html ) claims to have; unless the clearance is tighter on an lt4 it should work. Don't you have to take off the optispark anyways to replace your timing chain gasket? (I really don't know, just asking)
I haven't done it, but the guy that wrote up the optispark and water pump replacement thread ( https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pictures.html ) claims to have; unless the clearance is tighter on an lt4 it should work. Don't you have to take off the optispark anyways to replace your timing chain gasket? (I really don't know, just asking)
Hi - thank you. Indeed, yes, optispark needs to come off anyway. I've seen both approaches discussed. I will get back on it soon and see if I can get the optispark approach to work so I can remove the pulley. It sure doesn't look and feel like that will work! I've also seen it mentioned that '95s and '96s are slightly different with that clearance, but I can't really confirm that. One of these ways sure ought to work!
We’re just talking about the balancer and not the hub, right? A quick tap with an air hammer would probably knock it right loose and be a lot safer for the crank than whacking it with a piece of wood and mallet. I’d use a really blunt ended chisel in the air hammer and obviously don’t hit the outside ring of the balancer or you can surely damage/separate it.
sorry for you guys that deal with this, my balancer popped right off the first time, no fuss.