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^^^^ Wrong. If you take the cycling switch out of the equation for any length of time, you will freeze the evaporator. Why is it there if it is ok to bypass it???
WRONG. The low pressure switch has nothing to do with with the system aka CCOT (cycling clutch orifice tube), the low pressure switch is just a safety switch to shut off the compressor when the system is low on refrigerant. The cycling switch is in the evaporator.
WRONG. The low pressure switch has nothing to do with with the system aka CCOT (cycling clutch orifice tube), the low pressure switch is just a safety switch to shut off the compressor when the system is low on refrigerant. The cycling switch is in the evaporator.
When I got it to run I found a BIG LEAK. So I gotta depressurize it anyway. But thanks!
also to the above about why did I even bypass it.
I bypassed it to make sure the system actually works because since I’ve owned the car, I’ve never got the compressor to go on until then.
When I got it to run I found a BIG LEAK. So I gotta depressurize it anyway. But thanks!
also to the above about why did I even bypass it.
I bypassed it to make sure the system actually works because since I’ve owned the car, I’ve never got the compressor to go on until then.
Exactly. When you bypassed the low pressure switch the compressor will turn on because the system doesn’t know it is low on refrigerant. The low pressure switch is there to protect the compressor, if you have low refrigerant the compressor will not run. You don’t need to “depressurize” it if it’s working. There is nothing to depressurise if it’s working because you have pressure in the system
I think you had said earlier that when you bypassed the switch the system was running cold inside the car ? If you had a “big leak” than it wouldn’t be cold at all. Now you say it has a “big leak” and how do you know that ? If it gets cold inside the car then it sounds like the system is working?
WRONG. The low pressure switch has nothing to do with with the system aka CCOT (cycling clutch orifice tube), the low pressure switch is just a safety switch to shut off the compressor when the system is low on refrigerant. The cycling switch is in the evaporator.
Stop it! Stop punching yourself in the nuts. The orifice tube is exactly what it says and nothing more. Lowers pressure and temperature. It is NOT a TXV. Educate yourself. See post below.
When I got it to run I found a BIG LEAK. So I gotta depressurize it anyway. But thanks!
also to the above about why did I even bypass it.
I bypassed it to make sure the system actually works because since I’ve owned the car, I’ve never got the compressor to go on until then.
Dude! If you had a BIG LEAK then you wouldn't have any refrigerant left. You said previously it was in a line by the firewall. I'll bet my brother's left nut you were hearing the refrigerant passing through the orifice tube.
Dude! If you had a BIG LEAK then you wouldn't have any refrigerant left. You said previously it was in a line by the firewall. I'll bet my brother's left nut you were hearing the refrigerant passing through the orifice tube.
I feel air leaking? Only when the compressor runs. And it makes a hissing noise. The tube gets real cold. Maybe it’s not a leak? 🤷♂️
I feel air leaking? Only when the compressor runs. And it makes a hissing noise. The tube gets real cold. Maybe it’s not a leak? 🤷♂️
but yes I got cold air in the car.
YES DUDE! FK Me! You stated previously it had not worked in a long time. FFS dude. Put your thinking cap on. AGAIN, if it was leaking, you would have no gas left - compressor running or not.
So if I am understanding this right. Just run it with the bypassed switch and it will be fine?
Do whatever you want. I don't GAF. Nothing harder than trying to educate someone who doesn't want to be educated. If you want to do what the other misinformed dude says, then fill your boots. I told you to research and educate yourself. I'm done.
Do whatever you want. I don't GAF. Nothing harder than trying to educate someone who doesn't want to be educated. If you want to do what the other misinformed dude says, then fill your boots. I told you to research and educate yourself. I'm done.
so don’t bypass it because it will burn up the compressor from constant use? I just don’t understand your advice on the topic.
I have been googling and reading the forums. I am a little lost on what to do. I have no A/C in my 1991 coupe. The fan works and it blows air just not cold. I did try the code thing you can do with the A/C unit and it didn't have any codes. I do not see any obvious leaks. The car has never had A/C since I have owned it so not sure what stopped it.
Should I try adding Arcic Air, R12 substation in? Should I just save up and convert it to R-134a? If I do convert it can I just change the O-rings and valves?
Looking for the most budget friendly way to get cold air in the upcoming Texas summer.
@LixC4 Hey, you are asking good questions, i think you might be like me, just new to cars but have experience working on other mechanical things? My advice >>>. Hop on the interent after googling key words of what it is you wan to learn. If you plan to deepen your relationship with your '91, then be all means buy the 2 volume set of Field Service Manuals. There's tremendolus knowledge and experience on the forum. On the internet there are some excellent videos. Try googling key words like "how do i trouble shoot my 1991 c4 corvette air conditioning" or, "why don't i have cold air coming out of my 1991 air condtioning?"
YES DUDE! FK Me! You stated previously it had not worked in a long time. FFS dude. Put your thinking cap on. AGAIN, if it was leaking, you would have no gas left - compressor running or not.
I guess I was not sure if it could leak but only once the compressor was on. I was thinking maybe once the compressor was on that might up the pressure and then it could be leaking. But guess not. Thanks!
Alright so the temp gun shows before and after air temps from the vents AC off / on. IT GOT NICE AND COLD! I let it run for about 30 minutes.
Third picture in red circle is where I found the air is coming from. Its rushing out of that area. The blue circle was were I thought it was leaking from but its not. Its coming from that red circle area.
Exactly. When you bypassed the low pressure switch the compressor will turn on because the system doesn’t know it is low on refrigerant. The low pressure switch is there to protect the compressor, if you have low refrigerant the compressor will not run. You don’t need to “depressurize” it if it’s working. There is nothing to depressurise if it’s working because you have pressure in the system
I think you had said earlier that when you bypassed the switch the system was running cold inside the car ? If you had a “big leak” than it wouldn’t be cold at all. Now you say it has a “big leak” and how do you know that ? If it gets cold inside the car then it sounds like the system is working?
Update, for everyone saying my whole system would explode and do not do this. I have been running it like this for the last 4 days with no problem. Thank you Solar88
Update, for everyone saying my whole system would explode and do not do this. I have been running it like this for the last 4 days with no problem. Thank you Solar88
Against better judgement, I need to respond to this. I really shouldn't because you have shown your inability to use common sense. Where exactly - name which post, where ANYONE suggested "your whole system would explode". My god dude! You are the one that suggested it may blow up!!! Did you even watch the video I linked? It says so right in the description of how the refrigerant is regulated. It also says that without regulation, a low heat load will freeze the evaporator. Running with the cycling switch bypassed will freeze the coil if the heat load drops and allows the pressure/temp to drop below 32°. That's just simple science - thermo dynamics. Solar88 obviously watched it and learned something because he hasn't responded with any more nonsense. All the posturing and "I've been doing this for X years" does not over rule science and physics.
Why doesn’t anyone just tell him what to change to get the ac system running without using a jumper wire
That has been done but he would rather believe false information rather than physics and seems content not to correct the system. On top of that, he likes to invent things that people didn't post.
I know how to do a lot of stuff on my 96. Learning how to do AC is not on my list. The learning curve is long and I don't think I would use the knowledge enough to make it worthwhile. I do have a small town local and honest shop that does AC only 2 miles from my house so that might be a factor. Dan
Stop it! Stop punching yourself in the nuts. The orifice tube is exactly what it says and nothing more. Lowers pressure and temperature. It is NOT a TXV. Educate yourself. See post below.
Did you even watch the video I linked? It says so right in the description of how the refrigerant is regulated. It also says that without regulation, a low heat load will freeze the evaporator. Running with the cycling switch bypassed will freeze the coil if the heat load drops and allows the pressure/temp to drop below 32°. That's just simple science - thermo dynamics. Solar88 obviously watched it and learned something because he hasn't responded with any more nonsense. All the posturing and "I've been doing this for X years" does not over rule science and physics.
