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Found the ALDL finally. Took one last look under the dash and behind the upper left side of the radio there it was. I still cannot explain the fuel pump though. Pulled it out of the pickup and even with direct 12v it does nothing. So, the top right pin is the jumper for the fuel pump supposedly from what I have read.
Found the ALDL finally. Took one last look under the dash and behind the upper left side of the radio there it was. I still cannot explain the fuel pump though. Pulled it out of the pickup and even with direct 12v it does nothing. So, the top right pin is the jumper for the fuel pump supposedly from what I have read.
Yeah... sounds like the fuel pump is dead then. It does happen. Is there water or anything in the tank? Just curious.
You'll also want to buy a new pickup sock (might as well if it looks even slightly dirty) and also, I would not use the fuel connector hose that it comes with... I'd buy this:
Went and picked up new pump and sock, and the correct fuel filter this time. On a sad note, that shiny chrome alternator did not work and when pulling it out, the power steering pump bracket broke and sheared off about 2 inches above the lower bolt.
Went and picked up new pump and sock, and the correct fuel filter this time. On a sad note, that shiny chrome alternator did not work and when pulling it out, the power steering pump bracket broke and sheared off about 2 inches above the lower bolt.
Got the new fuel pump in and a new sock. Without even touching the ALDL connector I connected the harness at the fuel pickup assembly to the car-side connector. It was indeed the fuel pump because the new one works and now it wont shut off. I had to unplug it, but not before fuel pressure was able to reach the fpr and showed me several leaks. So now I have the question of why is the fuel pump constantly on? I dug through the Haynes manual and looked around on here. There is what I believe a dark blue (could be another dark color)wire with white stripe on the ECU harness (where it was cut about 6 inches from the firewall. This wire is connected with a jumper that goes straight to ground on the top side of the edelbrock intake plenum. I suppose I could of just disconnected it and checked to see if I can now connect the fuel pump harness, I got distracted with the power steering pump bracket breaking off when my helper was adjusting the alternator, he was trying to get the front side bolts of the alternator bracket to line up. We are missing two bolts so we were trying to figure what goes in there. I found a replacement bracket, but I still need the bolts to mount the bracket to the engine.
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Just a friendly suggestion, throw that Haynes manual away or use it for a fire starter in your fireplace and purchase the 84 corvette GM service manuals. You will be glad you did.
Just a friendly suggestion, throw that Haynes manual away or use it for a fire starter in your fireplace and purchase the 84 corvette GM service manuals. You will be glad you did.
Be happy to if I could find one.
On another note, while I wait for the new PS bracket to show up. I tried pulling the seats out, to start the project of replacing interior carpet and the seats themselves (they are trashed). The front bolts were easy access, however the rear bolts with the seats all the way back, I cannot get to them. the power seat controls to not seem to be working. Any ideas?
Be happy to if I could find one.
On another note, while I wait for the new PS bracket to show up. I tried pulling the seats out, to start the project of replacing interior carpet and the seats themselves (they are trashed). The front bolts were easy access, however the rear bolts with the seats all the way back, I cannot get to them. the power seat controls to not seem to be working. Any ideas?
Lift bottom seat cushion (there is a metal clip in front of seat in the bottom). Once lifted you will see the 4 bolts that hold seat to track. Remove seat and youll easily get to the track for removal.
Just a friendly suggestion, throw that Haynes manual away or use it for a fire starter in your fireplace and purchase the 84 corvette GM service manuals. You will be glad you did.
I tend to agree... the Haynes manuals are really good for basic things like rebuilding a suspension or doing brakes when you're just learning and never done that before, but the service manual is critical for all the other things, like correct torque specifications (which are often wrong in the Haynes manual).
I bought mine about 3 months ago and it was $100 bucks, so better deal now. It's still not "fantastic" as you'd expect some pretty basic diagrams to be in here, that aren't. Like... I couldn't find anywhere inside that it showed where the fuel filter was, other than it stating that it was under the passenger side. You kind of expect a diagram.
I am also excited for the electrical book. PO has done some odd electrical changes, like moving the high beam low beam selector to a switch where the trip/oil temp and other switches are in the left side of the center dash. I want to restore it back to the way it was and this book will tell me what he changed and how it is supposed to be. Not sure if it will tell me why the fuel pump stays on,
but I imagine if I make all the wires correct, the issue will rectify itself. Does anyone know (I have looked) who might have an OEM or OEM equivalent dash harness that goes from ECM to all the dash items, instruments, center dash, radio etc. I was thinking if I just change the whole harness it would be less headache than trying to fix what was changed. I also need an OEM Instrument cluster, found a guy on Ebay but he needs a core in exchange. PO has put aftermarket gauges in that are not accepted.
Can someone tell me if Tuned Port injection hardware works/interchangeable with a Crossfire setup? Obviously wondering if harness connections are the same, works with the ECM, etc. I would really prefer to get TPI hardware if it works.
Can someone tell me if Tuned Port injection hardware works/interchangeable with a Crossfire setup? Obviously wondering if harness connections are the same, works with the ECM, etc. I would really prefer to get TPI hardware if it works.
No, the CFI system is entirely different from the TPI (multi-port fuel injection) system.
The wiring harness is totally different too... but it is still a small block chevy, and most of that stuff should bolt up. There's a lot of options if you want to convert away from CFI. CFI is not as complicated as I think some people think it is (this is my second CFI car)... I think it's largely misunderstood. But all that said, if you get a factory TPI set-up, you'd want to get one for a 350 (ECM, injectors, etc.), and I'm not sure if there is a different cam used in the 84 CFI versus the TPI motors... but if there is... the fuel mapping for the TPI will be a little off than what your engine has. But it should all bolt on.
There's a lot of aftermarket kits too... but what you want to be careful of is to get a whole TPI system, and then take on someone else's problem (why did they remove it, etc.). I think any fuel injection swap you do, you're going to want to go through the entire wiring harness and check all the connectors, look for any frayed or exposed wires, retape and repair things, etc.
I like CFI because it's unique, weird, and different... but TPI is pretty excellent. You can also go with TPI hardware, and then go with an aftermarket computer like a FAST EZ-EFI 2.0 management system. That's probably the direction I would go if I was converting stuff personally...
One thing to mention too is that many of the sensors on the motor are independent from the ECM, so if you do decide to do some kind of swap that's non-totally stock... you just want to make sure you don't (for example) just take wire cutters to the firewall wiring harness. One of the nice things about most 80s GM cars is that the gauge cluster is often semi or completely-detached from the ECM aside from a few things the ECM might be passing back. Things like RPM, engine temperature, etc... all generally come from dedicated sensors that feed the cluster. I haven't needed to check any of this on my 84 because all of that is working, but you likely have 3 temperature sensors (for example). 1 is a temperature switch sensor, another is a temperature sending unit for the gauge, and the other provides temperature (analog voltage) readings to the ECM. Just throwing that out there, so you can implement something like a FAST EZ-EFI 2.0 system, and still used the factory gauges (which I would prefer). There are other systems too that are a bit more advanced than the FAST system which will allow you to implement sequential port fuel injection, which improves fuel economy and around-town performance / driving (no difference at WOT). I have a whole write-up if you decide to go to one of those systems, because you want something that will control the timing. The FAST EZ-EFI 2.0 system will control the timing, but only after the signal has been converted, which you can do with a device like the MSD 6EFI system (which gives you multiple spark discharge too). But if you do decide to go down that route, you'll still want to use that shop manual for when you build out your harness.
No, the CFI system is entirely different from the TPI (multi-port fuel injection) system.
The wiring harness is totally different too... but it is still a small block chevy, and most of that stuff should bolt up. There's a lot of options if you want to convert away from CFI. CFI is not as complicated as I think some people think it is (this is my second CFI car)... I think it's largely misunderstood. But all that said, if you get a factory TPI set-up, you'd want to get one for a 350 (ECM, injectors, etc.), and I'm not sure if there is a different cam used in the 84 CFI versus the TPI motors... but if there is... the fuel mapping for the TPI will be a little off than what your engine has. But it should all bolt on.
There's a lot of aftermarket kits too... but what you want to be careful of is to get a whole TPI system, and then take on someone else's problem (why did they remove it, etc.). I think any fuel injection swap you do, you're going to want to go through the entire wiring harness and check all the connectors, look for any frayed or exposed wires, retape and repair things, etc.
I like CFI because it's unique, weird, and different... but TPI is pretty excellent. You can also go with TPI hardware, and then go with an aftermarket computer like a FAST EZ-EFI 2.0 management system. That's probably the direction I would go if I was converting stuff personally...
Thanks, that is what I needed to know. I am ok with re-tune if required. Finding a crossfire harness is proving difficult, so trying to open up more options.
EDIT: If it helps I am in process of pulling the dash, so that I can pull what is left of the cut engine harness, so I will be in need very soon of a harness. Also the replacement PS pump bracket shows up today, still need to grab another alternator, but I will have that by the weekend and will be putting that back on. Meanwhile, the engine harness is coming out, and hopefully those books I ordered show up soon.
Last edited by EpicTech; May 12, 2025 at 12:27 PM.
sounds like the fuel pump is dead then. It does happen. Is there water or anything in the tank? Just curious.
So now I have the question of why is the fuel pump constantly on? I dug through the Haynes manual and looked around on here. There is what I believe a dark blue (could be another dark color)wire with white stripe on the ECU harness (where it was cut about 6 inches from the firewall. This wire is connected with a jumper that goes straight to ground on the top side of the edelbrock intake plenum. I suppose I could of just disconnected it and checked to see if I can now connect the fuel pump harness, I got distracted with the power steering pump bracket breaking off when my helper was adjusting the alternator, he was trying to get the front side bolts of the alternator bracket to line up. We are missing two bolts so we were trying to figure what goes in there. I found a replacement bracket, but I still need the bolts to mount the bracket to the engine.
