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My L98 block is due back from the machine shop soon. Having a mild 383 N/A motor built with all the good stuff top to bottom.
I had a link to a pair of TPIS headers saved in my build sheet - but it seems as though those are no longer available? I've messaged them, but haven't heard back if its a website issue or if they discontinued them.
I see a $2000 American Racing set, which is insanely expensive, or Headman, which I read require denting primary tubes for clearance (user posts).
scouring the net today, I've come up snake eyes for the ole 1986 C4 vette.
Any recent purchases or recommendations out there, assuming TPIS isn't an option??
My next step is to see if my builder can bore out my stock manifolds (which I've already cut and plug welded shut all the emissions) and build my own exhaust by hand. I can fabricate - just wasn't looking to make a weekend project of it was all.
I have the Hedman Elite headers on my 86.
I didn’t have to do anything to make them fit and they were an easy tie-in to the factory Y pipe.
Appreciate the reply. At the price point, it might be worth giving them a shot. Got concerned when I saw a lot of posts saying they required tube mod, bolt alignment and clearance issues. What style header bolt did you use?
I used Breslin split lock bolts.
I did have some issues using a 12 point box end on a few due to lack of room for a box end.
I cut the end of box to look like a tube wrench and then beefed up the sides of box with some mig welding to reduce flex.
6 point header bolts would be easier, but I like the idea of locking bolts from previous cars without.
I had Headmans on my 86 and no tube denting was required. Use better gaskets than they supply with the headers. I installed Percy's Seal-4-Good gaskets many years ago and never another leak.
Don't be too concerned about having to dent a new header. I've had to "clearance" my Hooker headers here and there for bolt access. It's something to be expected (sadly) when you start swapping parts around (they're bolted to AFR heads). I would recommend to purchase the model with ceramic coating, as I have yet to see header paint last more than a year.
Don't be too concerned about having to dent a new header. I've had to "clearance" my Hooker headers here and there for bolt access. It's something to be expected (sadly) when you start swapping parts around (they're bolted to AFR heads). I would recommend to purchase the model with ceramic coating, as I have yet to see header paint last more than a year.
I too am running AFR heads (210cc Race Heads) - As they say, if going fast was easy, everyone would do it! HA. I've heard lots of folks give the same recommendation - get the ceramic coated version, and I agree. Thank you for the reply!
any pics you can post? I am lazy and want to toss on Hooker shorties from an LT1, but cannot find them anywhere for reasonable. If I need full length, oh well.
any pics you can post? I am lazy and want to toss on Hooker shorties from an LT1, but cannot find them anywhere for reasonable. If I need full length, oh well.
maybe others on the thread could comment - I wound up ordering Hedman Elite headers. Will update this thread with my experience and any notes once I get my motor back.
any pics you can post? I am lazy and want to toss on Hooker shorties from an LT1, but cannot find them anywhere for reasonable. If I need full length, oh well.
These are 19 years old now, would look better if I had not faded the ceramic coating during cam break in. 🤬
Exotic Muscle sells nice headers, very similar to what TPIS sold. Made here in the US and ceramic coating is good. They have both 1 3/4 and 1 7/8. And then they sell different options for the tubes downstream.
However, the ARH stainless is by far the best, will last a lot longer in a performnace application, 304 stainless conducts less heat... regarding the price, as it includes the dual pipes from the collectors downstream with an X-pipe and cats as an option, to make that part high quality and a lot easier, so after you add it all up with the cheaper stuff, you may be at or above the ARH.
TPIS sold a Y-pipe and that was it, I used their Y-pipe in the past, and Y pipe is not the way to go for the 383 (that was the L98 original configuration)