Brake bleeding question?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,634
Likes: 325
From: Greenville SC
Brake bleeding question?
I started bleeding my brakes on my 95, I put speed bleeders on years ago, but first time bleeding them since.
I completed the passenger side rear. I sucked out old fluid in MC, topped off with new, then cracked the bleeder, and pumped a few times, checked MC and bleeder line, did this several times until it looked like new fluid coming out. I was careful to keep the MC full.
Now I have a soft/spongy brake pedal. It is firm with car off, but not much resistance when running until near the bottom of travel.
I am hesitant to do the others now, or is that the issue, I need to do the other 3 before it feels correct? It seems like air in the lines, but it has a speed bleeder.
Should I do this same one again, and keep the line submerged in fluid? I could see the fluid in the tube, and it would just sit there unless I pumped the pedal, with no air bubbles in tube,
If the tube started emptying, I would shut the bleeder before the air would hit the bleeder just in case.
I completed the passenger side rear. I sucked out old fluid in MC, topped off with new, then cracked the bleeder, and pumped a few times, checked MC and bleeder line, did this several times until it looked like new fluid coming out. I was careful to keep the MC full.
Now I have a soft/spongy brake pedal. It is firm with car off, but not much resistance when running until near the bottom of travel.
I am hesitant to do the others now, or is that the issue, I need to do the other 3 before it feels correct? It seems like air in the lines, but it has a speed bleeder.
Should I do this same one again, and keep the line submerged in fluid? I could see the fluid in the tube, and it would just sit there unless I pumped the pedal, with no air bubbles in tube,
If the tube started emptying, I would shut the bleeder before the air would hit the bleeder just in case.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4,189
Likes: 1,312
From: LeClaire Iowa
I tried speed bleeders in my 96 and they did not seal. My only suggestion would be to remove the speed bleeders and coat the threads with anti-sieze. This will help stop air from going in past the threads while bleeding. It is not necessary to keep the hose in brake fluid as the valve that stops air going back in is inside the speedbleeder. When you redo it have someone watch the clear tube for air bubbles. Before and during hit the caliper with a rubber hammer to dislodge air bubbles stuck on the surface. Dan
Last edited by Whaleman; Nov 26, 2025 at 03:09 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,634
Likes: 325
From: Greenville SC
Yeah I thought about air getting by the threads, but I was careful about not opening it much, but maybe it still leaked. I was thinking of keeping the tube in fluid in case the speed bleeder is not working correctly and jammed open, IDK if that is likely. The fluid would just sit in the hose unless I pumped the brakes, then some would come out. When I would go look at the tube, nothing was flowing. This seems correct to me, as the one way valve is stopping the fluid and air from coming in, unless I push the fluid out, correct?
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4,189
Likes: 1,312
From: LeClaire Iowa
Yeah I thought about air getting by the threads, but I was careful about not opening it much, but maybe it still leaked. I was thinking of keeping the tube in fluid in case the speed bleeder is not working correctly and jammed open, IDK if that is likely. The fluid would just sit in the hose unless I pumped the brakes, then some would come out. When I would go look at the tube, nothing was flowing. This seems correct to me, as the one way valve is stopping the fluid and air from coming in, unless I push the fluid out, correct?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,085
Likes: 1,972
From: St. Charles MO
A few things:
I hope that helps.
- I kind of agree about the Speed Bleeders: it seems to me there is potential for air to get sucked in through the threads when they are loose. I've never used them, though, and they may have some kind of thread sealant that allows them to be back out and still remain airtight in their threads.
- If you aren't positive you kept the master cylinder reservoir full enough to prevent uncovering the bottom ports, then you should consider bleeding it. The main way to do this is to "bench bleed" it, but you can also do it on the car. The factory service manual (FSM) for the 96 C4 (and I'm sure it's the same as for 95) actually says to do that, and they don't even say to use hoses to route fluid back into the reservoir. Instead, you place a catch pan (or even just a rag) underneath, have someone put pressure on the pedal (or use a Motive pressure bleeder), and crack the nut where the front line screws into the m/c. Let it dribble until there's no air, then tighten that nut. Repeat on the rear pipe.
- Only after you know you have the m/c clear of air do you move to the calipers. The FSM says the proper order is RR, LR, RF, and then LF.
- If you do all that and it is still spongy, do it all again.
- If it doesn't get better the second time, then maybe the ABS system has air in it. I think the only way to bleed that is with a Tech 1 Scan Tool (or clone). On newer cars like my 2020 Camaro, there are OBD2 scan tools that aren't expensive and that will run the procedure. Don't know if there's an option for your OBD1ish car. Basically you put 30psi on the system (Motive will do this) and command the "auto bleed" process while you bleed each caliper.
I hope that helps.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 8,549
Likes: 930
From: Communist Colorado
When I rebuilt all 4 calipers, replaced the M/C and replaced all 4 lines, my brakes were a real PIA to bleed... I tried the Brake Motive bleeder, which worked well, but still it seemed there was air in the lines... Tried going to a gravel road and slamming on the brakes to engage the ABS solenoids.... helped a bit more.... but the true fix was using a scan tool to ativate the ABS solenoids one by one... Finally I had the correct amount of brake pedal travel.
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