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Yes I installed a out of the box stock Cardone from Rockauto. I've driven the car about 1,500 miles since including a 1,000 mile round trip to Tucson last weekend. So far, no drivability issues, engine starts instantaneously and does not stall. However when in Tucson I was demonstrating the onboard diagnostics to another C4 owner that didn't know about them and I was dismayed to see H16 in Module 4. That is the opti smoking-gun code. H16 did not reset on the drive home, but I didn't expect to see an H16 on a 2 month old unit. I just don't / can't trust these optis.
While so far it is running, I don't trust the cardone (or any other make at this point) opti so I bought another new one and carry it and the tools to change it with me on trips out of AAA range of my house. I drilled and tapped 3 holes in the balancer to use 'pusher bolts' to remove the balancer without getting under the car. I hope I never have to, but I'm confident that I could change the opti on the side of the highway in about an hour.
Yes I installed a out of the box stock Cardone from Rockauto. I've driven the car about 1,500 miles since including a 1,000 mile round trip to Tucson last weekend. So far, no drivability issues, engine starts instantaneously and does not stall. However when in Tucson I was demonstrating the onboard diagnostics to another C4 owner that didn't know about them and I was dismayed to see H16 in Module 4. That is the opti smoking-gun code. H16 did not reset on the drive home, but I didn't expect to see an H16 on a 2 month old unit. I just don't / can't trust these optis.
While so far it is running, I don't trust the cardone (or any other make at this point) opti so I bought another new one and carry it and the tools to change it with me on trips out of AAA range of my house. I drilled and tapped 3 holes in the balancer to use 'pusher bolts' to remove the balancer without getting under the car. I hope I never have to, but I'm confident that I could change the opti on the side of the highway in about an hour.
Do you use 'short' cap screws in your threaded holes to keep the threads clean until you need to use 'longer' for actual procedure?
Do you use 'short' cap screws in your threaded holes to keep the threads clean until you need to use 'longer' for actual procedure?
Hah. I hadn't thought of this. Short answer is "no". The holes are open. I'm not going to own this car long enough for them to get too rusted up. And once it's gone, I don't care.
I came up with this work-around to remove the balancer from above in anticipation of this year's NCRS campaign where I'll be driving this now-proven unreliable, can, and probably will, quit running at any time car about 20,000 miles over the next 5 months. If I have to use the pusher bolts between now and July I expect that the holes will still be clean enough, and if they aren't I'll force them.
I guess I could put some grease or Boeshield in them. But I probably won't. I think I'll be ok. Cheers.
If you slather all the mating surfaces with antisieze, the next time its off, you won't need any type of mechanical help removing the balancer, you can easily pull it off with just hand strength.
