C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

88 L98 not starting when warm

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Old Feb 14, 2026 | 02:21 PM
  #61  
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thank you ctmccloskey
I have not messed with the egr valve but I have not change it either. I don't know if you went back and read all the things I have changed but all of what you wrote. I did have access to the MT2500 that read the OBD1 but at the time we thought we had found the problem. I would purchased one but if I did I would not know how to use it.
I really believe it is somethiing simple but what. I know that the computer is not telling the injectors to fire when warm. but what?
I also have a 40 chevy with a L98 that I've had for 30 years and has not gave me any trouble. I'm a pretty good wrench but I'm not a tech.
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 01:47 PM
  #62  
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the way I understand it is the distributor sends pulses to the ECM and the ECM sends pulses to the injectors. If the distributor was bad or a component in the distributor is bad would it post a code
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 02:30 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by snackstick
the way I understand it is the distributor sends pulses to the ECM and the ECM sends pulses to the injectors. If the distributor was bad or a component in the distributor is bad would it post a code
a loss of drp will not cause a ecm code
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 02:50 PM
  #64  
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If you’re missing injector pulse only a few things can cause it.
engine not cranking 400 rpm or higher. No drp on purple/white wire from icm to ecm or damaged wire. Shorted injectors when warm or power or bad ground for injectors.
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 03:04 PM
  #65  
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i'm sorry but what does drp mean
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Old Feb 15, 2026 | 06:30 PM
  #66  
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Distributor reference pulse (or distributor reference period) depending upon the context.

If you short ALDL pins A & B and turn the ign on, the SES lamp (if you have one) should flash 12. This literally means no distributor reference pulses which would be expected from an engine that is not running with the ign on.

While keeping ALDL pins A & B shorted while cranking (when you have the no start condition present when warm), does it continue to flash 12 the whole time while cranking? or does the ses lamp go off, stay on, or blink steadily at the open loop rate (2.5 hz)?

Note: I've never tried this, but reason would suggest that it will continue to flash 12 during cranking if no reference pulses are detected by the ecm.

Last edited by tequilaboy; Feb 15, 2026 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 09:17 AM
  #67  
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I know how to use the ALDA. Everything I have read or heard says not to start the engine with A & B shorted that it would damage the ECM.
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 01:02 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by tequilaboy
Distributor reference pulse (or distributor reference period) depending upon the context.

If you short ALDL pins A & B and turn the ign on, the SES lamp (if you have one) should flash 12. This literally means no distributor reference pulses which would be expected from an engine that is not running with the ign on.

While keeping ALDL pins A & B shorted while cranking (when you have the no start condition present when warm), does it continue to flash 12 the whole time while cranking? or does the ses lamp go off, stay on, or blink steadily at the open loop rate (2.5 hz)?

Note: I've never tried this, but reason would suggest that it will continue to flash 12 during cranking if no reference pulses are detected by the ecm.
forgot about 12 and 42 est code
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 01:22 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by snackstick
I know how to use the ALDA. Everything I have read or heard says not to start the engine with A & B shorted that it would damage the ECM.
? What ! It’s forces the ecm into diagnostic and if left in running field service mode
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Old Feb 20, 2026 | 03:04 PM
  #70  
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I want to thank everyone for there patience and help. I have never in my life have I had anythng to beat me but this swap has. I have replaced everything that has been suggested. I have checked the ressistance and voltage to everything that I could not replace and still the problem remains that it will not crank when warm, and I do mean warm when run less than a min. I haven't decided if I'm going to buy another truck and sit this project aside or abolish it all together. Again, thank you everone
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Old Feb 20, 2026 | 03:16 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by snackstick
I want to thank everyone for there patience and help. I have never in my life have I had anythng to beat me but this swap has. I have replaced everything that has been suggested. I have checked the ressistance and voltage to everything that I could not replace and still the problem remains that it will not crank when warm, and I do mean warm when run less than a min. I haven't decided if I'm going to buy another truck and sit this project aside or abolish it all together. Again, thank you everone
crank ? I thought it wouldn't start when warm ?
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Old Feb 21, 2026 | 09:42 AM
  #72  
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I'm sorry just a miss use of words. yes will not star when warm.
I was told yesterday and I don't know where to verify the information. I was told that on corvettes that the ECM was different than the cameros and firebirds.that on the corvette it goes to start mode and after it warms up it goes to run mode and the computer checks for a lot more components and if some are missing then it will not start. the informaton I got was the ECM has to be tuned for a stand alone harness, they said that the cameros and firebirds does not need turning. first does anyone know of a company that does tuning. second, how would I verify if that is true before sending my ECM to someone. and is it the prom or the computer
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Old Feb 21, 2026 | 09:52 AM
  #73  
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86-89 tpi used the same 1227175 ecm. Bins are interchangeable but c4 had vats enabled. You might update to $6e w/vats delete but if you have lost injector pulse when warm starting or your fp is bleeding off that’s not the problem. Sounds as if you were misinformed on the camaro/corvette ecms.
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Old Feb 21, 2026 | 10:50 AM
  #74  
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At this point I'm trying to follow every lead. what are you talking about $6e
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Old Feb 21, 2026 | 11:52 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by snackstick
At this point I'm trying to follow every lead. what are you talking about $6e
89 based mask
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Old Feb 21, 2026 | 02:27 PM
  #76  
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I'm not a tech, will you please put things in layman terms. I still don't know what your talking about
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Old Feb 25, 2026 | 03:00 PM
  #77  
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to verify the distributor reference pulse do I insert one probe on the purble wire and the other probe on the white wire and have the multimeter on AC current while starting
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Old Feb 25, 2026 | 03:06 PM
  #78  
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Use a scanner and watch cranking rpm or hookup a tachometer to the purple/white wire.
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Old Apr 9, 2026 | 12:09 PM
  #79  
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I'm sick of this engine swap. I haven't got it to start when warm as yet. Fuel pressure drops from 45 psi to 0 I immediately when switch is truned off but holds at 40 when running. have just checked my csi and it is spraying proper and no leak as I can see. I hve removed the TPI and raised up the fuel rail enough to see the bottorm of the injectors. switch on I applied 45 psi of fuel pressure without starting and no sigh of leaks. are there any other way to test the injectors.
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Old Apr 9, 2026 | 12:17 PM
  #80  
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Have you pinched the return line with injectors raised. Could have a regulator not seating .
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