:blueangel: what the best product for cleaning my throttle and under hood parts, it's spring cleaning time. :U happy draginnnnn :chevy

 

MAke sure to use a throttle body specific cleaner. regular carb cleaner leaves a residue that is not optimial for throttle body's. can't remember what I used, I think it was a gunk or gumout brand throttle body spray cleaner.

 

as long as its TB cleaner, youre ok

 

For what it is worth...........

Throttle Body Cleaning

Spraying TB cleaner into the Throttle Body is just about as bad as not doing anything. Please don't think I am being judgmental or a smart butt, I will explain. When the cleaner is sprayed into the TB, it drains into the bottom, and that is where the IAC pintel area is. The area gets gummy with all the crap that gets trapped there, and you get hesitation.

1st things first. Contact Jeff Kopp (or whoever you prefer) and get a TB rebuild gasket set. Do this first, because if you wait until the last minute, you will be at the mercy of the local GM dealership and they will charge you $30 for 4 thin gaskets.

Next, go to AutoZone and buy a can of B-9 by Sperryman. This stuff is the absolute bomb. It is highly corrosive though, so don't leave it on your hands too long. I wear latex gloves (free supply, my wife is a nurse). Now, once you are ready, remove the TB from the car. If you haven't done a coolant bypass on the TB, you will have to drain a little out before you remove the TB. Next, disassemble the TB completely except the butterfly's or idle set screws. Leave these two items as they are. Again, don't remove the butterfly’s from the throttle shaft.

Now, dip the TB into the can of B-9, and let it sit for at least 10 minutes. It may take longer, depending on how dirty it is. Mine took 20 minutes. The B-9 will turn the crud to syrup, and it will just run off when you lift the TB out of the can. I will warn you that it will take the paint off the top plate and the throttle linkage, so if you don't want these stripped, then make a jig that keeps the linkage out, and don't leave the top plate in. Pay special attention to the IAC passageway and seat area. I took a Scotchbrite pad and shoved it into mine and rotated it until that area shined.

Once the TB is clean, take it out, and wash it with soap and water.

Now, take the IAC and measure the length of the pintel tip from the gasket base. It should be 1-1/8". I don't want you to adjust it, I just want you to know where it is for reference in case something crazy happens and it gets out of adjustment.

Lastly, when cleaning the gasket off the top plate, be careful. It has a small bead area (raised lip) so don't take a knife and scarf it away. If you do, you will create a vacuum leak that is tough to correct.

When re-assembling, do not over torque the top plate. The thin lip that you so carefully avoided damaging will cut right thru the thin gasket if tightened too much. In fact, probably 25% of all vacuum leaks are created there because most mechanics like to tighten everything in easy reach. This is one place you want to use discretion.

Before inserting the IAC, take some B-9 and put on a Scotchbrite pad and gently clean the pintel. Your goal here is to remove the crud and leave perfectly smooth.

Good luck. If you need anything else, or have more questions, feel free to contact me.

~ Purp :thumbs: