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1. sometimes takes a long time for the car to turn over. even if it has been running for a while, i turn it off, and then turn it back on. weather is around 60-70 when i start it, so it shouldnt been to cold. took about 5 seconds to get it going. any ideas as to what can be causing this?
2. might be hard to explain, but when i floor it (something i do more than is necessary), it almost seems like the car is sputtering. i dont think that it is the fuel system, but seems to be more of something of the tranny, flywheel, something along those lines. am i close in this prognosis, or is it something completely else?
Once it's running, what does your voltage read? Sounds like your alternator is going south. If your alternator is dying (or your battery), you will lose power in the system. If your battery is getting low, you'll have a hard time turning the motor over, and our cars HATE being low on eletrical power when they're running...tend to run like crap.
If you have the original OEM 1989 Fuel Injectors still, it’s quite possible you have sticky/leaky Injectors. What happens is they leak fuel when the vehicle is parked, then, depending upon severity, you get hard starts. In the worst-case scenario, you’ll get a hydro locked engine, were you have to pull the spark plugs to blow the excess fuel out!:eek:
on question number two .if when you floor it and it sputters most likely it is one of two things air or fuel problem. how long has it been sence the fuel fliter was changed or the fuel pump checked.have you ever changed the rotor button inside the distributor?or distributor cap checked?wires or plugs need to be checked also. :auto: :chevy
How is the fuel pump relay? The motor will run with it bad, it just reverts to oil pressure and won't send fuel pressure to the rail until a certain amount of oil presuure is seen by the pressure sensor. How is pressure at the rail? Any cats on car #2 could be clogged pre-cats.
I would start with a fuel pressure check. Check pressure at initial key ON engine OFF (41-47 psi). Turn the key off then watch the gauge for 5 minutes, you should not lose more than say 2-3psi. Check the pressure at idle. Also watch the gauge as you blip the throttle, pressure should rise sharply and consistently. Also, the reading should be stable, for example, at idle you don't want it bouncing from 42psi to 46, back to 42.
Good luck, this is a very simple test and a good place to start. Let us know. what you find
1. sometimes takes a long time for the car to turn over. even if it has been running for a while, i turn it off, and then turn it back on. weather is around 60-70 when i start it, so it shouldnt been to cold. took about 5 seconds to get it going. any ideas as to what can be causing this?
2. might be hard to explain, but when i floor it (something i do more than is necessary), it almost seems like the car is sputtering. i dont think that it is the fuel system, but seems to be more of something of the tranny, flywheel, something along those lines. am i close in this prognosis, or is it something completely else?
thanks everyone!
Off subject I know but have had no luck navigating this place. Joined 3 days ago. My cig lighter, climate control system and my radio (including the speakers bussing/popping)have no power at all. Only found fuses on passenger side panel. What should I check under the hood? Do? ?
Off subject I know but have had no luck navigating this place. Joined 3 days ago. My cig lighter, climate control system and my radio (including the speakers bussing/popping)have no power at all. Only found fuses on passenger side panel. What should I check under the hood? Do? ?
Replace the 15 amp CTSY/CLK fuse in main fuse panel, on side of passenger dash.
My 91 was a hard start especially after leaving it sit for a couple weeks. I have to jump start it then. Battery tested good and the wires were new. Finally, took the battery out for a test and again, it was good. This time, I decided to take the starter out for testing. According to Autozone it tested good. Call me a skeptic but I took it to a rebuilding shop. They took it apart and it wasn't pretty. Seems like when it leaked in the past, oil had gotten in and messed up the inside. Now it starts good after the rebuild.
2. might be hard to explain, but when i floor it (something i do more than is necessary), it almost seems like the car is sputtering.
When my car did that it was a bad spark plug wire. I found it by looking at the wires while running in a dark garage. Wire #6 was arcing to the oil dipstick tube. When I pulled the boot off the plug it fell off the end of the wire. The internal conductor of the spark plug wire had eroded.
Replace the 15 amp CTSY/CLK fuse in main fuse panel, on side of passenger dash.
Top row, second fuse from the left.
thanks dude. i checked all those and they all looked good but it works now. and since you obviously know more then me....the popping/buzzing speakers. Does it when alternator is disconnected as well. ? Misses while idling, a little, sometimes. I've read that is not uncommon with that year. True/solutions?
thanks dude. i checked all those and they all looked good but it works now. and since you obviously know more then me....the popping/buzzing speakers. Does it when alternator is disconnected as well. ? Misses while idling, a little, sometimes. I've read that is not uncommon with that year. True/solutions?
The capacitors in the Bose amps may be the problem. Search repairing Bose amps and you will find out more.
89 used Multec injectors which are known to fail with age. May or may not be the problem. Ohm testing them hot and cold may reveal a problem.