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I'm taking a look at 1.6 rockers, and I've got several ?'s.
Why are Comp Cams RR's seemingly more popular than the
Crane gold self-aligning? Isn't it required to use hardened guide plates
with the Comp RR's?
Does anyone know how big a difference there is between Comp's
RR's and Roller-Tip? The RR's have less friction, while the Tipped ones
have a more friendly price. Decisions, decisions.
Any other suggestions will be helpful.
The Comp Pro Magnum rockers are popular because of their strength for high performance applications. The Crane Golds work very well but with aluminum bodies are not the best for every application. They do work well in most street applications very well though. I was running a set of the Cranes before swapping to the Pro Magnums for strength when I went to a solid roller cam.
It is required to use hardened pushrods and guideplates for any non-self aligning rocker.
I would not do just a roller tipped rocker. Spend the extra cash to get the full roller.
Just a warning, the Crane's sometimes have clearance issues with large diameter valve springs. Not sure about the CompCams RR's, I think they are not as bulky and may work better in such applications. The CC's cost a bit less too. I have the Cranes but would go with the CC's if I did it again.
I run the Crane RRs 1.5. Didn't want to change springs, but wanted the efficentcy of the roller rockers. If I do head work, I'll change to 1.6s. They do run smooth.
If you really look into it, you will find that the roller tips, don't roll over the end of the valve stem. i.e. There is no point in spending $ on that part of it. The real advantage is the roller fulcrum. There is a lot of heat that gets generated by the 1/2 moon fulcrum types. i.e. Added wear, lost power, etc.
[>>Just a warning, the Crane's sometimes have clearance issues with large diameter valve springs.]
Does this mean that the Crane RR's will be just fine with stock or stock diameter springs?
They will work fine with stock diameter springs. I have 1.460" dia springs and some (not all) of them had retainer to trunion contact, requiring some light "clearancing" with a die grinder. This was with the 1.6 ratios on LT1 heads, don't know about 1.5.
The ProMagnum RRs have more strength and less rotating mass than the Al RRs so are quite popular. After seeing both sets on display at Summit I chose the ProMagnums.
The full RRs are prefereable to the roller tips due to the reduced friction at the fulcurm and so less power loss to friction and resultant lower oil temps.
You can not get the ProMagnums in self-aligning (so don't need guide plates) or non self-aligning (which require hardened pushrods & guide plates). However you need to know the setup in your engine, i.e. if it uses holes to index the pushrods you could run into some binding; if it has slots then either setup would work ok.
With tests on an '85 L98 1.6:1 RRs on the intake and 1.5:1 RRs on the exhaust produced the best results; with 1.6:1 also on the exhaust idle suffered a little roughness. However, I have 1.6:1 RRs on both int & exh and a very smooth idle.
So I don't know which setup would be best for your L83. You might want to check with the X-Fire guys to see what has worked best for them and check out the pushrod binding issue with them too.
I have heard of running 1.5 on the intake and 1.6 on the exhaust. But I havent seen anyone try it yet.
I have heard of L98 guys doing this, whereas the LT1 / 4 seems to like 1.6s all around. I am no expert just repeating what I've read here and my LT1 is doing quite well with GMPP 1.6s. :chevy