LT-1??????????
the L98 would be a MUCH more affordable and easier option. then take the money you saved by not doing the LT1 motor and mod the L98 and the rest of the car. you will have a much better car with a modded L98 than with a stock LT1 for probably around the same $$.
this is not why i chimed in on this message, but matter of fact i am selling CHEAP an LT1 intake, TB, fuel rail, injectors, and sensors, that will would be a great swap for your crapfire (i think). check out C4 parts for sale if interested.
:D :D
[Modified by SonnyinVA, 1:19 PM 4/23/2003]
I think you should seriously consider the easiest cheapest mods possible (that will give you the best results). you are young and you ARE going to have other things that you will want to spend money on. modding an LT1 adds up QUICK!!! you don't even want to know hom much money i have tied up just in MODS on my car.... you can probably look at my sig and tell it is ALOT!! and i have a lot left to do!! i could have bought a whole 'nother car with that dough. or a boat, or a motorcycle, or ....
my point is, don't break the bank to mod your car, i'm an old married guy so it's not such a big deal for me to be car-broke... LOL i'm not trying to go out and party on the weekends. and i only have one woman that wants me to spend money on her.
anyway, just my opinion. WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!!
http://www.rancefi.com has intake manifolds and whole EFI setups, just remember there is limited space below the C4 hood, I believe around 9"
Holly stealth ram comes as a complete intake/EFI system. (modified plenums are available from forum members)
If you go this route you will be way ahead in terms of performance and tunability then any stock C4 engine
gotta remember this kid is 15 and probably doesn't have that kind of $$$ to throw around. (correct me if i'm wrong lil dude)
just trying to look out for you.
not trying to flame but we should all consider that when we make suggestions to him?
let's not get his dreams bigger than his wallet!! think back to when you guys were 15...
i say you get rid of the crossfire, do some minor bolt on's and you will be happy to have a car that could run 13's and handles like a race car for very little $$.
lots more than just about every other 15 year old could say!!
and maybe you'll have some money left over to take a hot mullet-loving chick to the drive in!! :cheers: :cheers:
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


The Holley system is $2300
The FAST sytem is $1400 + $200 (sensors) + $220 (ford injectors) + $255 (intake manifold)
Yes, more expensive now, but I think it would wash out if you consider future mods. Gen1 mods are cheaper, plus you can go larger (454ci) and the ECM system will grow with and compliment the changes you make.
I guess a good question is, Why do you want to swap out engines? Did you put a rod through the block?


We are only speaking from expirience. Many of the people here on the forum have built engines their whole lives. If they suggest something, it's not directed negatively on you, it's just that, they have been there and done that. They know what will be easier, cheaper, and what works with what. It's nice to be ambitiuos but, we are letting you lnow now, it's going to be expensive.
If a vette engine, then you will have to decide if you are going speed density (92-93) or MAF (94-96) but understand that the 96 is OBDII and sort of unique in that regard. The '95 is OBDI with an OBDII ALDL connector. You will need all that stuff and then some. I'm not certain of the issues you face in trying to hook a non-ABS, non-ASR car to a(n) ECM/PCM'd car that wont have this stuff in it. The '94+ requires the 4L60E tranny unless you have a real custom chip in mind. The PCM controls the TC lockup function and possibly some other functions, but I'm not sure. Others have done the TH400 install, so it is possible.
I don't know if the exhaust will be an issue or not...it will be if the manifolds aren't included since you need them for the EGR operations. Then you'll need a stock one or custom one done if you need to be emissions compliant. The steering column or rack system might be an issue as well with placement and how things are routed between your year and the intended year of LT1. Your radiator is different as well if I remember right. Isn't the 84 straight up and down? the LT1's lay at that odd angle. Not sure if that will be an issue.
The air pump on an LT1 is electric. Not much of an issue as it is unpluggable if not liked, so you probably won't have to sweat this item.
The '95 has the better Opti system and is cheaper to replace when the time comes (and it will). You could just buy a '95 timing cover, newer Opti unit and the harness to plumb it with separately.
You will have to upgrade the fuel pump as well. The LT1 is designed with much higher pressures than the TBI that you have now. Your car has what 9-14psi in it? Whereas the LT1 is 30-50psi.
Just some stuff to consider. I hope you have done lots of research, have much access to this info and people with this info as well. Not an easy tasking. If it was just a matter of hooking up a fuel line, throttle cable and such then no biggie. But things are a little different now.
[Modified by Goody, 7:27 PM 4/23/2003]


350 - There are two blocks, one with two-bolt mains and one with four-bolt mains. They both have the same 10125327 casting number, so there’s no sure way to know which one you have until you get the pan off. However, if it came out of a Corvette, it should be a four-bolt block, and if it came out of anything else, it was supposed to be a two-bolt. GM used the two-bolt block for everything but the Corvette because it had plenty of strength and it weighed a little bit less.
265 - There was only one block used for the 265 cid version of the LT1. It’s a 10168588 casting that had the numbers "4.3" cast on the side, too. It’s real easy to spot if the heads are off because of the small 3.74" bore.
There were two heads used on the 350, one aluminum and one cast iron, along with one cast iron head for the 265. GM claimed that the original LT1 aluminum head had a 15% increase in airflow as a result of revised port angles and higher port ceilings when compared to the 1991 L98 head. That was impressive in 1992, but the iron LT1 head that came out in 1994 was even better. It flowed 20% more on the intake side and made more horsepower on the dyno.
All LT1 heads used small combustion chambers to get the higher compression ratios with flat top pistons; the 350s had a 10.5 to 1ratio and the 265s had a 9.8 to 1 ratio.
350 IRON HEADS - All of the full-size cars came with iron heads. They were 10125320 or 12554290 castings.
265 IRON HEADS - The 265 had its own unique cast iron head with a 10208890 casting number. The chambers are smaller, so these heads cannot be interchanged with any of the 350 LT1 heads.












