has anyone relocated their battery and how did it go? Any pictures?

 

what reason would you relocate it???

 

Use to do this in the days of drag racing.......are you going to drag your vette....if so relocate........but if not leave everything alone....
tony
:flag

 

You do it for weight distribution- I roadrace mine and ideally would like equal corner weights. Since the vette is nose-heavy (and leftside heavy with driver), moving 40+ lbs from the front left wheel to right rear is a significant change. I used two steel battery trays and some threaded rod, made brackets and welded the top tray to the rear crossmember. Make sure you're using an Optima (gel battery) if you're going to lay it down like this though! Here's a couple pics...

 

gcrouse...cool :seeya :thumbs:

 

I like your exhaust setup! :D

Do you have any picture showing the car from behind so that I can see what it looks like from a little distance?
:cheers:

 

did you hang the battery out behind the rear wheels? looks like a good idea for drag racing, but for road racing, you want the shortest polar moment- seems like where chevy has it now is about the best place for that.

 

 

I think the best place to mount the battery is right on front of the rear passenger side tire.

The numbers I have seen for corner weighed vettes show the passenger rear tire the lightest.

 

I did a relocation for another reason, cool air for a SC.

But this might be of some use to you:

Procedure to Relocate Air Filter and Battery for ATI Supercharger

Parts Needed:

Optima Red Top 75/35 http://www.optimabatteries.com/products/pdf/7535.pdf
Available off the shelf at Pep Boys for $107

Vinyl Coated Steel Battery Tray $3 - Pep Boys
Battery Hold Downs $3 - Pep Boys
Vinyl Coated Steel Battery Top Hold Down $4 - Pep Boys
Battery Terminal Corrosion Protection $1 - Pep Boys
Battery Terminal Covers - Black and Red $2 - Pep Boys

Stinger 150 Amp Electronic Circuit Breaker Part Number SCB150 http://www.stingerelectronics.com/st...se_holders.htm
(6) Stinger $10 Each
(2) Stinger Top Mount Battery Terminals $10 Each http://www.stingerelectronics.com/st..._terminals.htm
12 Feet of 4 Gauge Monster Cable (Red) $3/Foot
3 Feet of 4 Gauge Monster Cable (Black) $3/Foot
12 feet of flexible black automotive wire protector

Insulated Battery Terminal Post Item: 228601---POWER POST 3/8 Price: $8.99 BoatUS

Misc. -
8" x 1" Thin Aluminum (Available at Lowes)
Misc. Bolts
Tie Wraps

Air Ducting -

4" Silicone High Temperature Duct Hose
Part # THESS-400 4" $82.99 Racer Parts Wholesale.com http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/duct.htm

Breathless Performance
Part Number 100-210(3) C5 Air Filter Red 69.99
(2) 4" SS Screw Clamps

Procedure:

On the passenger side rear storage compartment, remove the storage tray and the cloth storage compartment lining.

Remove the 8 Phillips screws supporting the storage compartment lid assembly and remove the lid assembly.

Measure and drill holes in aluminum bar to match holes in battery storage tray and mark and drill holes in bottom of storage compartment. Place battery tray in compartment, using bolts, and washer and secure aluminum bar on underside of compartment with nuts and washers. Mount battery with posts towards the drive shaft rather then towards outside side. Install terminal corrosion protection.

Drill two holes for battery cables in side of storage compartment for battery cable egress.

Measure, mark and drill to holes in side of storage compartment for circuit breaker.

Mount battery in tray.

Mount circuit breaker on side of storage compartment and secure with bolts.

Put black automotive wire protector over positive leads. Run positive lead thru storage compartment access hold, over c-beam (thingy the drive shaft is surrounded by and over to driver's side in front of rear wheels. Secure with tie wraps to existing wiring harness that runs over the c-beam.

Remove front battery access panel, remove front battery.

Use an electric wire fish tape to fish positive electrical lead through rocker panels on driver side and into engine battery compartment.

Run ground wire from negative top battery post, thru access hole, and ground to frame.

Do not remove original battery tray. Remove the back most bolt from the battery tray and use this bolt to support the new positive insulated battery post. Connect original battery post to new battery lead on the insulated post. Cover with provided insulating cover.

Tie wrap everything neatly.

Air Duct Installation:

Remove existing air filter from ATI unit.
For ease in installation, remove wiring harness from cruise control and two vacuum lines from cruse control to ease installation. Disconnect wiring harness for cable that runs along rear inside of forward wheel well.

Fish new flexible air duct under cruse control support beam, under master cylinder, and up and around into ATI air intake. Secure with screw clamp. Cut air duct to length. Install air filter to end of duct and secure with screw clamp. Place on battery tray.

Reinstall battery access panel. Reconnect all vacuum lines, and electrical harnesses.

 

I have mine relocated as well...Mine is now in the storage compartment behind the passenger seat though. The only thing you REALLY need to make sure you do is install a vent tube (NHRA requires it for "battery boxes", which is what they teched my relocation as). I've got some rough pics but don't know how to host them...

I moved mine to make room for my little 1 gallon fuel cell that carried C16 for the fuel side of the N2O system.
-Jeb Burnett

 

Can I get some pics of both the relocated battery and the gas tank?
I plan to do exactly the same thing.

 

Sure...Email me at badvette@prodigy.net and I'll forward them to you...
-Jeb

 

Yes that's one aspect, as is corner weights, cross-weights, CG height, front / rear track width, scrub radius, suspension frequency, chassis frequency, spring rates/preload, shock motion ratio, compression/rebound damping, tire compound, tread width, and of course alignment.

It wasn't an arbitrary choice; the rear is lightened by quite a bit (no glass, no spare, light exhaust) and I'm carrying too much weight up front; the resulting polar moment after reducing the rear weight and moving the battery is still lower than original. Also with me driving the left side of the car is 275lbs heavier than the right :jester

 

Can relocating the battery help out by discouraging some robbers from stealing your vette? Since they wont see a battery up front? :confused:

 

You have mail

 

John, email me the pics and I'll post them. Let me know next time you're coming over to Memphis. :steering:

 

Yeah...I'll email 'em to you the same time I get them to Bill. Posting them would be cool. I'll actually be in Memphis on Thursday; I'm bringing a fairly radical 1980 Vette I built for another Forum member up there to dyno and tune with TJ of MotorVation. Throw me an email at badvette@prodigy.net and maybe we can hook up..
-Jeb

 

Here're the pics, :steering:

 

Thanks to Ransome for posting the pics...Sorry they're not any better and don't have the battery in there. When I get the interior pieced back together again I'll take some more pics so you can see what it really looks like. I'll also try and explain what ya'll are seeing here...

Pic1- This is a pic of the passenger side rear compartment that the battery is in. The batt. wires run through a grommet into the compartment from the passenger floorboard. They run under the carpet and insulation on the pass. side and out through another grommeted hole in the firewall.

Pic2- Where the wires exit the passenger compartment into the engine compartment.

Pic3- Another view of the storage compartment.

Pic4- Large 8 guage primary wire feeding the powerblock on the driver's side. This comes off of the starter hot lead to feed the block...

Pic5- View from outside the storage compartment to where it goes into the passenger compartment (under the carpet behind the pass. seat).

Pic6/7- My window switch for the N2O system. Mounted on the passenger side of the radiator shroud assembly.

I think Ransome is going to post the N2O system pics later...
-Jeb