When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Came out great, the aluminum suspension arms clean up real nice on the c4's.
When I put the 4.10's in my ruby I actually painted all of the rear arms a high luster silver with clear coat and the diff carrier black with clear coat just to do something different.. with the clear coat on there everything cleans up with ease
Curtis, You can bleed those brakes by yourself.
I do all my work on my vehicles solo.
Here's my one man brake bleeder tech article:
OPEN AND BLEED ONE BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER AT A TIME.
Get a small bottle (8-16 oz.) (find around the house or garage) and a piece of small rubber vacumn line or a clear line if you can get one that will attach to the port on the bleed valve.
Bottle should be one you can see through so yuo can see the air bubbles coming out of the system.
Get enough line so you can see your homemade "overflow" bottle from any wheel you want to bleed.
Pour some new fluid into the bottle (about half) to keep the line end submerged.
Attach the line to the bleed fitting and stick the other end into the bottle of fluid. (open the bleed valve first)
Take the top off the master cylinder so you can keep it filled as you do this.
Press the brake pedal completely down particularly the first stroke to be sure and fill your rubber line with fluid.
Keep doing this until no more bubbles form in your homemade "overflow" bottle. Continue to add fluid to the master cylinder as needed.
When you are getting just fluid (no bubbles) in the overflow bottle that line and wheel cylinder has no more air in it.
Open and do this to ONE wheel cylinder at a time. DO NOT let the master cylinder run out of fluid.
That's it. This will take about three minutes per wheel cylinder. One man job.
No real whoopdy doo. You can do it Curtis.
Looks great. :cool: I just did all four corners last month. The calipers are a lot harder to get clean. I cleaned/polished the rears and was dreading having to do the fronts, but I got lucky and picked up a set of new GS calipers on ebay pretty cheap, so I just swapped them out instead.
Curtis, You can bleed those brakes by yourself.
I do all my work on my vehicles solo.
Here's my one man brake bleeder tech article:
OPEN AND BLEED ONE BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER AT A TIME.
Get a small bottle (8-16 oz.) (find around the house or garage) and a piece of small rubber vacumn line or a clear line if you can get one that will attach to the port on the bleed valve.
Bottle should be one you can see through so yuo can see the air bubbles coming out of the system.
Get enough line so you can see your homemade "overflow" bottle from any wheel you want to bleed.
Pour some new fluid into the bottle (about half) to keep the line end submerged.
Attach the line to the bleed fitting and stick the other end into the bottle of fluid. (open the bleed valve first)
Take the top off the master cylinder so you can keep it filled as you do this.
Press the brake pedal completely down particularly the first stroke to be sure and fill your rubber line with fluid.
Keep doing this until no more bubbles form in your homemade "overflow" bottle. Continue to add fluid to the master cylinder as needed.
When you are getting just fluid (no bubbles) in the overflow bottle that line and wheel cylinder has no more air in it.
Open and do this to ONE wheel cylinder at a time. DO NOT let the master cylinder run out of fluid.
That's it. This will take about three minutes per wheel cylinder. One man job.
No real whoopdy doo. You can do it Curtis.
Cool, thanks for the tip! R94LT1 and i just got done doing it together though :). No air in the lines that I can tell. Pedal isn't mushy. Feels really solid.
I used the little red can of Mother's aluminum wheel polish .. i just went to the garage to find it and I don't know where it ran off to, lol. But if i remember right the Mag stuff was in a smaller tin can - and that's not what i used.
Those A arms really pop with some polish don't they? It is really easy to paint the black grease fitting bracket with a little krylon and it will work well with the polished A arms. I just cleaned the area with carb spray, masked off the zurk fitting and the A arm and sprayed it... Looks :cool:
That is the method I used on mine too. Great work!
Just don't be surprised, although you may be OK since you removed the rotors, but mine smoked like a stuffed pig after I did mine, I though the car was on fire. :lol:
SOme of the grease and grime must have got down into the rotor opening and been cookin off. After a few hard stops, it disappeared. :cheers:
Once you have them nice and clean, it doesn't take much to keep them looking nice
Those A arms really pop with some polish don't they? It is really easy to paint the black grease fitting bracket with a little krylon and it will work well with the polished A arms. I just cleaned the area with carb spray, masked off the zurk fitting and the A arm and sprayed it... Looks :cool:
Yup, I did that too! Makes them look much better when painted fresh black :yesnod:
That is the method I used on mine too. Great work!
Just don't be surprised, although you may be OK since you removed the rotors, but mine smoked like a stuffed pig after I did mine, I though the car was on fire. :lol:
SOme of the grease and grime must have got down into the rotor opening and been cookin off. After a few hard stops, it disappeared. :cheers:
Once you have them nice and clean, it doesn't take much to keep them looking nice
yup! i think taking the rotors off helped a lot, haha. I didn't get any smoke or anything. that's funny that it burned all that off though, hehe.
I'm definitely going to keep these clean, especially now that i have my old '93 blazer back as a daily driver :D