Looks like many are getting their winter projects up and running and I'm no different. Car has been apart for 6 months, but with Nebraska winter...no harm.

Took 3 days to reinstall the power train with lots of swearing after forgetting how it goes together (6 months!), but it hasn't leaked a drop of anything and runs better than it did for sure.

Added Stage III CNC to my stock castings with increase to 11.2 compression along with a Canton 7 quart oil pan. Everything else remains the same as my last dyno visit...except for the #7 piston down in the bore an extra .025 of an inch...don't ask me how that happened or when it happened. Hope it don't blow.

Car runs great on the stock tune so may visit the dyno as it is before I mess with LT1 Edit/36# injectors/new fuel pump. Need to get my Autotap running and then I will be set.

In all honesty, even if it don't make any more power...I'm just glad it runs after all that work...again...:)

Any guesses?

And don't be a :crazy: as I test on a conservative Mustang 1750 dyno...350 RWHP would be an optimistic number...maybe 330. Hope it don't blow!

 

I am running an LT1 with a similar set-up and dynoed 353 rwhp on a Dynojet.

 

Good luck at the dyno...my guess.....359 :hurray:

 

Congrats on getting it all done, and good luck on the dyno.

I know how you feel, my vette has been down for 7 months, I'm starting to go crazy.

Jim

 

Oh, I forgot to guess your dyno numbers. I will guess a 30 hp increase, whick will put you around 335 rwhp on the Mustang dyno. But, I hope you hit your 350 rwhp goal.


Good Luck.
MP

 

:cheers: Hope all goes well. For some odd reason...Putting the car back together is always more difficult than taking it apart.

 

Nice setup! I'd say 340 rwhp, but it looks like you're ready for some LT headers to help it breathe.

 

Put a few more miles on it and I think I like it...alot. Power band is very, very similar to before the heads until you hit 3500 and it just zings to the fuel cut (6400 rpm). I'm amazed at how well it runs with the stock program/stock 28# injectors/etc.

I can see why 4.10's would be great...I wish I could shift more often...the sound is intoxicating! I'm doing over a hundred in the blink of an eye...not even out of third gear! Would make a rough ticket in those 45 mph industrial parks...:)

STL94LT1: I followed your build pretty closely. My Impala gaskets appear to be working as advertised...little concerned that they might not be good for the aluminum heads, but no problems. Did you retorque them? I've decided to wing it...Chevrolet doesn't retorque them so...too much work for me. :)

I would really like to add the headers, but...would really like to keep the car looking stock for the most part. The CNC stamp is hidden-must look for it to see it. "Yes sir, its just a stock LT4...330 horsepower I think." :lol: Will be interesting when I switch to bigger cam and 383 shortblock.

:yesnod:

 

I used my stock head bolts with GM thread sealant, and Impala head gaskets, torqued the head bolts once, and no problems to date.

Also, 4.10's are perfect for these cars. First and second gears are out of control, and you are still only turning 1800 rpms @ 70 mph.




[Modified by STL94LT1, 10:26 AM 5/16/2003]

 

I would do 4.10's in a heartbeat, but I'm after a higher speed goal :)

My OEM LT4 head bolts required an angle meter for torquing...wonder when Chevy went that route-I'm sure it is cheaper. I added ARP head bolts and permatex sealant.

:)

 

When I did my heads, I bought new GM head bolts. A full set from Scoggin-Dickey Chevrolet cost only $26, which is a lot cheaper than buying them individually from the local dealer or ARP.

I posted the results of my research on the stock TTY (torque to yield) head bolts a couple of times. TTY bolts are designed to perform best when they are "stretched" a specific amount during installation. It has little to with the actual torque reading. From memory, the proper procedure for the 1996 heads is to first tighten them to 20 ft/lbs, then turn the long bolts another 80 degrees and short bolts 68 degrees. This requires a torque angle gauge, which cost $12 at Autozone.

TTY bolts are designed when they are stretched the right amount which has little to due with torque reading. Torque readings are affected by many factors such as condition of the threads, type of sealant compound is used on the treads, lubrication on the head, type of washer, etc. As I recall, the torque readings were all slightly different when I turned them to the proper degrees.

TTY bolts are designed to be used only once. After they are stretched then relaxed, then installed again, they stretch much easier and more, thus loose their clamping ability. So, if your engine has TTY head bolts, do not reuse them.

I found using the torque angle gauge method awkward as you have to use a hook to hold the body of the gauge stationary while you tighten the bolts. This may be OK for the factory as the head bolts are tightened by a machine that does all of them at the same time. But for us garage repair guys, more orthodox torque to ft/lbs bolts such as ARP would probably be a better solution.

 

Besides new bolts are already clean-I despise cleaning hardware...:)