engine miss and then quit...possible opti?





The whole kit was $12, so I didn't mind getting the timing cover gaskets to boot.
How had is it to pull the hub?
I've got an electric waterpump.
I want to put that on instead, but I heard that if you don't take the waterpump drive out and plug it, the unsupported shaft makes the seal leak. But if I'm doing all this anyways, I could just drop the pan and plug it.





The bolt behind the PS pump was a real PITA! :mad
I don't think the waterpump is busted. The weep hole is plugged with oil! :crazy: Actually the whole front of the engine is caked with it. Probably the problem. :rolleyes:
The waterpump drive is right above the opti BTW. Getting a freeze plug over it will be tight.
I got the relays today to convert the pump to electric. You can find them in the trailer light section. No weather pack seal for it though. I'll have to mount it so the leads are pointing down, and wrap it up nice and tight.
I checked the wire I picked, fired her up before I took it apart. The wire is still HOT when the engine is running.
TIP Get a timing chain gasket set ( FelPro ), even if your not removing the cover. Not only do you get all the seals, you get the waterpump gaskets as well! :cheers:





I'll also see if I can just get the stud.
What size bolt is it?
I got the balancer off :cheers:
I used an extention and a hammer, I tried a piece of wood first all I got was a BOING!! as the wood flexed :crazy:
SEARS doesn't sell reverse torx sockets anymore :mad
I tried calling around, no one had them
I jambed a 1/8 socket on it though and got it to work. :cheers:
There's a little water in there, but not much. So I think it's OK
the cap & rotor are definitely gonzo.
I can definitely tell where the seal was riding on the opti drive.
It also looks like that's where all the oil was coming from.
I'll replace all the seals and hope the wear isn't enough for it to start leaking again. :rolleyes:
The plug wires are drenched!
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
The bolt behind the PS pump was a real PITA! :mad
Also, a lot of people are having trouble locating the E4/T20 reverse torx screw, let me know how the 1/8" socket worked out for you once you get the cap back on.
Thanks! :cheers:
Thanks! :cheers:
I've heard that tip before, but have never needed to try it.
BTW: I'm going to give accolades to everyone in the guide who's contributed. As you can see, I have alot of time on my hands :lol: :yesnod:
BTW: I'm going to give accolades to everyone in the guide who's contributed. As you can see, I have alot of time on my hands :lol: :yesnod:










Felpro TCS 45956
Looks like it's got the seals for both types of optis, splined and large seal.
Great guide BTW
Thank you great help :cheers:
Thanks! :cheers:
A friend has a press, so I'll take the pump over there to press out the impeller and drive in the plug.
BTW Mine rotor was held down with T8 fittings not T5
There's a lot a differences between the older opti's and and new ones.
Miine opti seal is the size of the crank's :eek:
It's driven by the pin off the camshaft, it fits over the camshaft bolts.
I bought a balancer puller for $15
My Hayes manual shows how to adapt it to pull of the remaining hub.
With the opti fully apart it doesn't look all that bad in there.
Looks like the way these things "fail" is the optical window gets junks infront of it so it can't read the wheel. I wiped mine down. Hardly anything on it. :cheers:







