I've called around to many places such as Flatlander, Speed-o-motive, and Thunder Racing to find out if a 383 stroker cast crank can be internally balanced. Everyone I spoke to said that only the forged cranks can be internally balanced and that cast would require a 400 balance and flexplate. Is there not a 383 stroker kit that can use my current balancer/flexplate?

Thanks
Riker

 

Scat makes an internal balanced cast crank for both single and two peice rear main seals. Check them out at:
http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/

 

An engine machine shop can do it for you. It cost me $50.

 

Internal balance of a non-internally balanced crank can cost you some dough, I had my cast 400 crank internaly balanced and the mallory metal alone cost me $175. but it can be done.

 

I just had my SCAT 9000 casr crank balanced using the stock flywheel and balancer.. it can be done..

it ran me about 120.00 in mallory metal and i think it was like 150-200 for the balance..

 

Most all 383 internaly balanced cranks are made to use 6 inc rods then it will not take to much mallory to balance them.

Jay

 

Wow! My machinist charged me $50 labor and $20 for the heavy metal. He may have been nice to me because he also balanced the entire rotating assembly and that cost me $400.

 

If you are buying a cast crank and then have to spend the extra money to have it internally balanced, you'd be better off buying a forged crank in the first place. At least assuming the machine shop rates here in the northeast. My machinist even questions the advertized as internally balanced Scat forged cranks.......he says unless you use light rods, it going to need mallery metal too.


[Modified by ralph, 6:17 PM 8/27/2003]

 

Thanks for the input guys. Sounds like a forged crank is the way to go. Any thoughts on this combo? http://www.flatlanderracing.com/stroker350383.html
I then pick 1, 4, 11 for a total of $1169. Would I need a local machine shop to still balance it?

 

BTW: i re-used the stock rods..

 

yeah, hey im interested in this combo too.. seems cheap and decent

hey real stupid question (dont laugh at me just instill me with some knowledge please) but what is so great about 4340 steal? :confused: is it ultra light?

 

It doesn't appear that you are cutting corners, so I would go ahead and also have the rotating assembly balanced. Your machinis will instantly notice if the crank, flexplate and balancer are off. Its a neat way to get a smooth running motor. You will already have the block at the machine shop to be bored. I would also take a real good look at your front balancer and if it doesn't look new, I'd replace it. On occasion you will have one in which the outside ring has slipped and moved a few degrees.

 

ok. no answers to the 4340 steel part huh?

what about mallery steel, is it just a welding to the crank? i dont get that term...

 

My crank was a cast one. On mine the machinist showed me a piece of steel he called "heavy metal". It was round, the size of a quarter and perhaps 1.25 inches long. It was very heavy compared to regular steel. He bored a hole in the front counter weight of the crankshaft (the direction of the hole was in line with the crank. He then used locktight and pressed the piece of heavy metal into the hole. (I asked him if the crank would per chance break easier since it has the hole drilled in the end and he said no that actually the pros liked it better that way.) After that he balanced the crank with the dual mass flywheel and the front balancer bolted on. Later he balanced the entire assembly. I put mine together with all cast parts as I only wanted a stock redline. My total bill for all machine work/parts was $2600. That even included putting the longblock together. I typically put my motors together but at that time I was swamped at work.