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Vic check the fluid level to see if it's still up to just after bleeding em. It's possible that the pistons or bores are worn and are now leaking since they are not fully inward.
If brake fluid is up to snuff, blead them again.
If you haven't already bedded the pads yet, do it asap.
If you had a solid pedal before the new pads I don't think the problem is in the master cylinder; recheck the brake job work.
Vic check the fluid level to see if it's still up to just after bleeding em. It's possible that the pistons or bores are worn and are now leaking since they are not fully inward.
If brake fluid is up to snuff, blead them again.
If you haven't already bedded the pads yet, do it asap.
If you had a solid pedal before the new pads I don't think the problem is in the master cylinder; recheck the brake job work.
My manual says to bleed the rear brakes elevate the front of the car to prevent air from being trapped inside the caliper and with engine off depress the brake pedal several times to remove any residual vacuum from the booster; then depress the pedal and have someone open the bleeder on the left rear and close after fluid ceases to flow. Repeat till no more air comes out; then do the same for the right rear.
There is no mention of raising the rear of the car to bleed the front brakes; but the order of bleeding should be the same as for the rear, i.e. farthest or nearest first.
Also, bed the new pads well before tackling a possible issue with the master cylinder.
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