Hey guys, I'm thinking about my winter project coming up in a few months.

I want to install a SuperRam on my car but I'm still debating if I should change the Cam also.
I know I'll benefit allot just with the SuperRam since I have a 383 with stock TPI intake but I'm wondering about how much HP or Torque I'll be missing out on if I don't install that recommended 219 cam which is made for the SuperRam.

I'm really debating the Cam because changing the Intake seems like a bolt on job without to much complications or coast.. but changing the Cam means I would have to remove all the front components of the Engine and having it professionally installed for me.. witch means more $$.

Any advise or input is appreciated.

:cheers:

 

you would probably get 50-75hp from changing the cam to the 219


[Modified by vader86, 2:59 PM 9/20/2003]

 

Are you kidding? Pulling the intake is 60% of the work of getting to the cam.

And a cam will give you great bang for the buck. I say go for it. :steering:

 

Exactly!

Jake

 

If I had a 383 I'd go bigger than the 219 cam

 

Hmm well I don't know about 60% but he is about third of the way there. He still has to get the radiator out, move the AC condensor out of the way. Remove all the accessories, water pump, then pull of the balancer then remove the timing cover. After removing both valve covers, rocker arms, push rods and lifters, cam sprocket bolts, and cam retainer bolts he can slide the cam out. But he may have to and if it applies remove the motor mount bolts so he can raise the engine so that the cam clears the crossmember.

One note here about the rockers and push rods, you will want to keep them all in order so that they go back in their respective positions. Unless you are planning on replacing all of the which in that case you can ignore this.

Lifting the engine has to be done on a LT1 C4 and I am not sure if the same crossmember is in a earlier C4. To get the timing cover back on and to assure a good leak free seal with the oil pan it is best to remove the oil pan at this time, then reassemble the timing cover. It is hard enough on a regular car of truck to get the timing cover back on and getting a good seal with the oil pan in place. In a C4 the oil pan just about drops out. The hard part is cleaning all of the surfaces of the old gasket.

Another thing to consider at this time is valve springs. Depending on what cam is installed new springs would most likely have to be installed to be complatible. And if he is going with a 219 cam it is recommended. And since you are in there to replace the springs you may as well install some good valve seals. It is a big job no doubt about it, and being its a C4 it makes it a bit harder.


[Modified by tjwong, 11:57 AM 9/21/2003]

 

Don't forget to check the valve lift for coil bind and for interference with the seals. Thes heads may have to come off to the machine the guides.

 

I wont pretend I know how to change a cam, because I don't.. but I do understand how it works and I'm not affraid of a wrench. I might be able to get some help from my step dad "I baught my car with an engine fire and he rebuilt the hole engine bay".
But I'm also considering having it done by an engine mechanic, IF its not to expensive $$$

I basicaly have two options...

Option 1:

- Have a mechanic do all the work.

Option 2:

Removing all the front part of the engine myself, like water pump, alternator, pulleys, radiator, air compressor, the top part of the engine - like the Plenum and runners and base manifold, then have an engine Mechanic install the New cam/rods/springs for me and then I can rebolt every thing up myself.

I'm wondering about how many hours of work a mehanic will need to do all the work, and about ow many he would need if he just installed the Cam for me instead of unbolting every thing.

Any one here as an idea?

 

ummmm... if you have to pull oil pan, all block accessories, and remove engine mounts, would it not be faster to pull motor and then do it?

 

I have no clue what would be faster.... but more then anything I would like to be "easier".

If leaving the engine in the car makes it longer but easier, that's what I'll do, but if your saying taking the engine out makes it easier... I think I'll need a lot of extra help doing that because I'm not a mechanic... I'm just a grease monkey who likes to work on his car on the weekends

If any one reading this had there CAM changed for a more aggressive one could you please post me a message saying how much it coast you and if you did the work your self or by a mechanic... of if you did part of the work... a bit of details would help me make my decision.

I work on a computer all day... so I'll be here all day.

Thanks!

 

Stef, I am in the same position as you, I have the cam and I am just waiting for the fine weather to break before I take the car off the road.

I have done this job before, but on a C3, and I can tell you that it is not difficult at all --but - (there is always a but), it is a big job and time consuming, because you will want to do it properly, clean and polish bits before they go back on etc.

I suppose what I am saying is if you want it done properly, and are not in a rush, do it yourself. If you want the job done quick and the car back in use - pay a mechanic.

 

I know your right about cleaning the parts, but I'm lucky on that part... the engine bay was rebuilt and the parts were cleaned scrubed and repainted. "almost every one of them"

I think I'll undo every thing I have to myself... then bring the into a garage have the cam installed and then I'll just rebold every thing up myself.

Seems the most coast effictive and more logical option.

Thanks for the help guys

Ps: Did you buy a Superram and cam for your 89 Vette? I still have to buy mine sometime this winter.

 

All the ones of you who installed the Super ram or the Stock TPI.. did you actually use a .. "Sorry for not calling this tool by its correct name" but did you all use a pound measuring wratchet? or just bolted it up with a normal wratchet.

 

You took the words out of my mouth.

 

Book time is 18 hours of work. If you presented him with a stripped down engine, had him put the cam in, and you put everything back on it would be far less.

 

It took me two long days over the weekend to do a cam swap including springs. The GM manual for a 94/96 LTx cars specifies that the engine is to be removed to do the cam. Even the Mitchel flat rate manuals which most shops use to give you an estimate says to remove the engine.

It is do able in the car, but its not an easy job. Getting the balancer of is a rea PITA in a LT1 car. Like I said if that crossmember isn't there then the job is a lot easier. Look at the following picture and just below the drop light, you will see the crossmember I am talking about. See how close it is to the balancer.

 

Torque Wrench? Yes, you have use one

 

I have been contemplating an engine overhaul/power increase also. Knowing what I know I would definately pull the engine to do the cam. If you dont you will have to reach in to places that are virtually impossible and try to clean and match gaskets that you can not see and it just would not be worth it. Especially if you end up with oil leaks. And dont forget the A/C will have to be discharged and recharged when you remove the condensor coil if it must be moved. It looks like it most likely will.

If you pull the engine and take just the engine to a rebuilder he can make all the changes you want like a new cam, refit the valve springs, clearence anything that needs it and give the engine back leak free. You can then reassemble the induction system and put the engine back in the car.

Pulling the engine may sound harder but I think in the long run it will probably be less of a headache. Pulling the engine is not really that hard anyway.

Good luck

 

Thanks for the info..... I just wish 3 years ago I had more money and more knowledge and when the engin was rebuilt I would of had the engine rebuilder install a more aggressive cam.

god dammit! :banghead:

 

hey, this is just my opinion. i just pulled the pan on my 91, and changed the bearings across the whole crank. That sucks laying in the oil and coolant that will fall off and on your face.

my vote is to find a friend with an engine puller and pull the engine rather then get underneath a jacked up car. unless if you have a car lift...