Ok, let me start out by saying that I did do a search on my problem only to come away more confused.

My no start problem first appeared to be VATS related which I have experienced before. First thing that I did was try my second key (after waiting 10mins) Still no start. I bought a new key, still no start. So am I correct in ruling out VATS?

What I did notice was a click coming from the area of the cowl/dashboard. I read that this is a relay of some sort. Now this is where I became confused. The fact that I hear a click means what????

If I can correctly rule out VATS, what could be causing my problem? :confused:

ps: I guess I should have mentioned that it’s a ’96 LT1, Auto.

TIA,
Jules :thumbs:


[Modified by champ53, 6:50 PM 9/26/2003]

 

Your's is doing the same thing my LT1 was. I ended up replacing the starter (common failure in LT1/4). If you have a meter you can verify the started is getting it's 12v and not kicking over. I think you can get a new one for around $150. It wasn't that hard to change on my 93.

 

My vette is an 86 but it did the same thing . I thought it was the vats. I resolved that issue by rapping on the starter solenoid. The car fired right up and I was able to get home. Sometimes when a starter solenoid fails it can be "jarred" into giving you one more start but I wouldn't count on it for more than that. I replaced the starter and my problem was solved. You could just replace the solenoid , but if you are going to the trouble to remove the starter(required to replace the soleniod) you might as well replace the starter, because it 's failure is not far away. Good luck :cheers:

 

In the tumbler are contacts that make with the pellet in your ign key. These contacts go to the VATS module and if the module measures the correct resistance in your pellet, it closes the start enable relay behind the center of the dash. The clicking you hear tells you that VATS is working correctly and is not the cause of your no crank. Power gets to the starter solenoid which turns on the starter motor by this path: Pos batt through a fusible link, through the firewall connector to the ignition switch, to the start enable relay contacts, to the auto xmsn gear selector switch, through the firewall connector, to the starter solenoid terminal on the starter. You need to check the gear selector switch by lifting the console cover and determining if the switch is ok and being activated in PARK. You can jump the gear selector switch and try a crank to prove the switch is either defective or not being activated by the gear lever. You can prove the starter is ok by jumping 12v to the wire on the gear selector switch that goes to the start solenoid and the starter should crank the engine. Also, you can eliminate the start position on the ignition switch by measuring the voltage on the wire on the gear selector switch that goes to the start enable relay. It should read 12v when you hit the crank position on the ignition switch.
Also, poor battery connections can cause the starter to not crank. Remove the battery cables (neg first), clean the cable lugs and the battery terminals and replace the cables (neg last). Measure the battery terminals when cranking, the battery voltage should not fall below 9.0 volts or the battery is discharged, poor cable connections, or the battery is at the end of its life. No load battery terminal volts will tell you the state of its charge. 12.0 volts or lower , discharged. 12.9 volts or higher, fully charged.


[Modified by jfb, 10:01 PM 9/26/2003]