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Anyone know the dimensions of the bolts used to lower the rear? I have an 85 if that matters. I looked briefly and it appears I would want a 1/2 fine thread bolt about 10 inches long, grade 8 of course. Am I right? Thanks.
I believe you are. Either 1/2 or 5/8 dia. Take along a bushing and see if it goes thru it, I had to open up my new bushings alittle. No big deal. Are you planning on using two ny-lock hex nuts per? I would, just to be sure....
My 91 is 14mm (9/16") x 2.0 pitch x 225mm long (9.0"). Have been looking at local hardware and supply houses for a 10" bolt to drop my car 1.0" with no luck. Still searching
My 91 is 14mm (9/16") x 2.0 pitch x 225mm long (9.0"). Have been looking at local hardware and supply houses for a 10" bolt to drop my car 1.0" with no luck. Still searching
I got 9/16 alloy ready rod and grade 8 stoffer nuts from Graingers.
Check them out :cheers:
back in April I spent some time searching for bolts...
"I've been searching for a few weeks now trying to locate a suitable replacement for the rear spring bolts. I finally found a company that carries them. They weren't stocked in my local store, but they're shipping them in for me. http://www.fastenal.com/shoponline/s...p?ProdID=44464
Stock hex head cap screws:
14mm(D) x 2.0 x 230mm(L) grade 9.8 (min tensile strength 130,500psi)
they are equivalent to SAE --
9/16" x 9" grade 6 (min tensile strength 133,000psi) or grade 8 (min tensile strength 150,000psi)
fastenal carries:
Metric socket head cap screws grade 12.9 (min tensile strength 177,000psi) 14mm x 2.0 in lengths 240mm (9.4"), 260mm (10.2") and 280mm (11")
I hope this helps "
I can't remember what size I ended up with, but the threads were not cut very far up the shank of the bolt. I ended up making round spacers from the cutting board I used to lower the front sandwiched between some fender washers.
If you use Nylocs, cross drill the ends of your bolts & use cotter pins. I did this out of concern for extra safety ..... glad I did. A couple of years after I did the lowering I was checking underneath & found that they Nylocs were "loose". :eek: Not a safety issue with the cotter pins in, tho.
Got the kit from Ecklers...put them on and spun the nut up an inch up the bolt, but would like to drop the body another inch. If they are 10" long...then I need to find an 11" rod. I guess it will be mailorder for me too.
The stock one is metric, but a 9/16" bolt is what you need. Someone already said it - use cotter pins or safety wire if you use Nyloc nuts. I use Grade 8 lock nuts of the solid metal variety (slightly distorted threads so there is extra torque & clamping friction) because I think they will last longer. I think they are less likely to be weakened by multiple use and/or the "elements." Check your Yellow Pages for a supplier in the Fasterner industry. Everywhere I've lived, I've found a company that supplies the hardware stores and fabrication industry. They will be the ones to get your 9/16" by 10 or 11 inch bolts and the best locknuts - plus other unique or hard-to-find fasteners - and theri prices will generally be very reasonable. When setting the rear height, remember that setting the nuts at something like "1.5 inches up" on each side may not have you level. I use a jack to unload the spring so the adjustment doesn't place as much load on the threads of the bolt & nuts. Measure ride height after driving to reset the load on the rear. Check alignment when finished. Good luck. :flag