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I've pulled my distributer at least 6 times and have never check the timing after putting it all back together.(I just marked the positon of the rotor) I went out last night, bought a timing gun and this is where I'm at(see sketch below). Like my Rhode Island brothers I see no numbers coresponding to the timing on my unit either. Maybe somebody can download my photo and write in where the numbers should be for us timing noobies.
And.........where is my timing based on my drawing
I wanna say that is 11* BTDC. What you need is a timing gun that has the dial on the back of the gun itself. You turn the dial to the degrees BTDC you want and then turn the distributor until the timing line comes to the 0* mark on the tab.
There are #s on it, but they are usually covered in rust.
Going counter clockwise the big indentation is 0 degrees the next point counter clockwise is 4 degrees BTDC the next indentation is 6 degress BTDC, next point 8 degress BTDC so forth and so on. The degree numbers are on the timing tab you need to clean it well to see them.
Your second picture with the EST wire disconnected shows that your timing is slightly retarded or after top dead center(ATDC). You should be at 6 degrees BTDC which I belive is the second point above the big indent on you drawing. As said before the big indent is 0 degrees.
Your second picture with the EST wire disconnected shows that your timing is slightly retarded or after top dead center(ATDC). You should be at 6 degrees BTDC which I belive is the second point above the big indent on you drawing. As said before the big indent is 0 degrees.
:iagree:
I think you will notice a difference once you have it right! :)
Chuck: I just went out and took a digitial pic of the timing mark on my 89. I will email this to you. I replaced the water pump a few months ago and cleaned and painted the timing marker. The picture shows the "before" stamp and the advance timing marks to the "0" slot. Hope this helps as your marker has similiar stamps! PS: I cannot find your email. Send me a note if you want the digitial picture. Sam
Damn chuck, you are missing about 6-8Degrees of timing.
I am sure that's some lso tperformance there. I knwo my car runs noticeably slower with 4 degrees timing. It'd probably run like garbage at 0. :D
The first picture shows your timing at 13 degrees advanced. The indent is zero degrees and each point out is 4 degrees. The second picture is at -4 degrees retarded. Your timing is way off. It should be at least 6 degrees advanced (above the big indentation), first inward point. Always set your timing with the est disconnected as the first picture doesn't even come into play. The computer is constantly moving the timing based on everything the computer sees. Good luck. :chevy
Thanks all, I'm heading out this morning to set it to 8 BTDC until I can get my hands on a scan tool that'll read knock counts. I'll give you some feedback after I go for a spin. :thumbs:
If you don't have a timing light in the future you can always adjust your timing by ear...I have had to do it several times and it would surprise you how accurate you can be..Mark
If you don't have a timing light in the future you can always adjust your timing by ear...I have had to do it several times and it would surprise you how accurate you can be..Mark
I think on older non-computer controled cars this was ok, but on FI cars I would not suggest it. The knock sensor will pick up knocks that you may not be able to hear, and when the ECM receives knock count it cuts back the timing by a large margin (I think 10+ deg) so I would use a timing light.