When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Nope,
I have done that and checked and rechecked it, no air in system....
I am thinking the sender is bad I pulled it out and it is kind of dirty with a white build up....
Thanks, P.
Give this a try - start with a cool engine. Remove the rad cap and start the engine. After the tstat opens you might notice a drop in the coolant level. Run the RPMs up to around 1500 and fill the tank to the neck. Replace the cap and shut it down. Allow to cool (overnight is good) and repeat untill there is no more room to put coolant when warm @ 1500 RPMs. Unless it is the sensor, this procedure should cure the problem.
Note: Unless you can operate the throttle at the throttle body AND pour coolant at the same time, get someone to help.
Re: Low coolant light comes on.... (Steel Blue 91)
You do have air in there, you just dont know it. Pull the cap cold and run to 1500 as stated above and you will see a significant drop in fluid. Takes 2 people to fill and hold rpm, but that will work. Another thing is that as long as your resovoir level is proper, it will take care of itself in a short amount of time...
:iagree:
I have found that a small flat blade screwdriver inserted between the throttle and the throttle stop on the TB will hold the RPM's between 1500 & 2000 allowing you to do this procedure by yourself.
Something I should have mentioned, I learned many years back to drill a small 1/16" hole in the thermostat off to the side, this helps reduce air pockets without the burping the baby thing...some race guy in Daytona turned me on to that trick,:steering:
I promise I will try the hold it at 1500 while cold thing because I want 2 see for myself what it does... :thumbs:
Also after I sanded the blade that goes in the radiator on the sender clean it stopped doing it :yesnod:
Something I should have mentioned, I learned many years back to drill a small 1/16" hole in the thermostat off to the side, this helps reduce air pockets without the burping the baby thing...some race guy in Daytona turned me on to that trick,:steering:
I promise I will try the hold it at 1500 while cold thing because I want 2 see for myself what it does... :thumbs:
Also after I sanded the blade that goes in the radiator on the sender clean it stopped doing it :yesnod:
You need to hold at around 1500 rpm's when its at operating temp and after the t-stat has opened up. Not when its cold. When you do, you will see the coolant level in the rad drops 2-4 inches. You add more when the rpm's are up to "stuff" the rad and eliminate air. Any extra will be forced into your overflow tank.
I will do the 1500 rpm test the right way.... :skep: :yesnod:
Here's a question for the tech heads...
the low coolant sensor has ONE wire on it, the sensor is in a plastic tank,
so no ground there, my low coolant light comes on if I unplug it from the sensor, and if fluid is on the sensor the light goes out, some smart person please tell me how this is completing a curcuit with one wire and a sensor in a plastic tank,
this isn't like the engine temp sensor in a iron head hence the ground.... :confused: