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The thought was that the throttle body should be warm so it doesn't collect ice from the throttle plate. Later years, GM stopped warming the throttle body with no ill effects. Bypassing is supposed to allow the TB to run cooler, and the fuel/air passing through it will also be cooler and therefore higher density which will produce more horsepower. The throttle body is in good thermal contact with the engine, so the bypass isn't going to do much for a cooler TB. Also, several CFers have admitted that they did not notice any performance improvement after the bypass.
Sorta like the bag of ice on the intake trick eh? :smash:
Kind of...I like the idea someone had last year of running a hose to one side of the bypassed TB and on the end of it a funnel somewhere up front so cool air can help cool the TB...Has merit (AGAIN - IN THEORY) :lurk:
My manifold intake temp(measured by the sensor screwed in underneath the upper plenum) dropped by about 25 degrees in the summer and with the weather in the 40's now, it doesn't go above 70*. It doesn't get cold enough even here in colorado to freeze the t/b blades, and it definately doesnt get cold enough in alabama to freeze it.
This modification on my car improved the clutter in a very tight area of the engine. With the hoses gone from the TB, it is much easier to work in that area of the engine. I would do it again for this reason. Did it help performance...only in the mind!
This modification on my car improved the clutter in a very tight area of the engine. With the hoses gone from the TB, it is much easier to work in that area of the engine. I would do it again for this reason. Did it help performance...only in the mind!
:iagree:
I bypassed mine and noticed it was still realy hot after running for a while.
Then I had IAC problems and the bypass hose was in the way, so I returned it to stock.
Now that I have removed air pump and the valve by the ac compressor, I will have more room to reroute hose for bypass.
Only for the reason of making TB removal easier. :smash:
:cheers:
Agent 86: I did not route the new hose under the TB. Instead, I spliced the heater hose just behind the right front wheel and routed the hose forward and looped it to the connection at the front of the engine. I have a picture, but do not know how to post pictures....too much tech stuff for an ole Alabama boy!
Agent 86: I did not route the new hose under the TB. Instead, I spliced the heater hose just behind the right front wheel and routed the hose forward and looped it to the connection at the front of the engine. I have a picture, but do not know how to post pictures....too much tech stuff for an ole Alabama boy!
Damn :smash:
It's never too late to teach an old dog new tricks :jester
I drive both of my 96's with the TB bypass, year round in Chicago. I'm not surprised GM finally dropped this, IMO, it's a relic from carbs. No gas evaporating, no ice build-up.
I don't know if this only helped in my mind. I certainly didn't feel a difference, but at the track, that along with a couple other free and close to free mods(t/b bypass, bumped up the fuel pressure a couple psi, adjusted tps voltage to .62V from .54V) yielded 3 tenths and 2.8 mph consistently with nearly the same weather conditions.
I guess what I'm saying is that all that free stuff does add up. And yes, it does make it much less of a pita to remove the t/b, which in itself was completely worth it. I did the bypass on my '86 when I first got it and never realized what a pain it is to have to crack open and refill the coolant system every time you mess with the intake till I got the '88.
OK, this has me intrigued; How DO you adjust TPS voltage?
I'm guessing replacing a resistor etc?
Nope, much easier than that.
The TPS is held on by I think two torx screws. Measure the voltage between the top two wires going into the TPS. Loosen the screws and rotate the TPS. There's a little lip on the TPS and by rotating the unit, the lip is moved. This is how the voltage is changed. When you get to the desired voltage, simply tighten the torx screws.
The only thing I'll add is that you want to torque the screws a little at a time going back and forth between the two. This'll help it to keep the setting you just adjusted as you tighten everything down. And double check your voltage after you tighten everything down. It's very sensitive.
Some of the later years aren't adjustable, but you'll be fine with an '85.