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Just want some insight on some mods that can be done to still keep the basically stock drivability of the car... plus somethin that could help my mph??
stock w/ only bullet mufflers, 13.6@99 w/ a 2.0 60' was my best run.
maybe i should change my exhaust set up? like maybe an x pipe in place of the resonator? I really just want it to be a solid low 13 car. not looking for any too expensive mods, just some small things to give the car some 'umph'. I'm 18 & in college.. so money is kinda tight. current mods in sig.
Sleeper??? Tunin' adjustin' and just playin' around with my Crossfire has cut 2 1/4 seconds off my 1/4 mile times. Our cars are too different for you to copy my changes, but I'm right behind you with a best 1/4 of 13.86 and a 60' of 1.99. It has 160,000 miles on it and never been into the long block.
If its an automatic, a torque converter will do you wonders.
Then add gears and you could potentially break 12s.
:iagree:
It might be a bit out of your budget, but these mods will make the biggest difference, for the money. ESPECIALLY if you don't have the performance axle ratio, which I think is 3.07. A torque converter like the Random Tech unit will make that car jump out there towards that 60' mark!
those will come, maybe when I'm working full-time this summer & not in school. But right now I'm more looking for the small things, which I'm sure there has to be enough of them to give me a low 13 sec. time slip.
RR's, plugs, & wires have crossed my mind. When i mentioned a thermostat, my roomate said I would have to reprogram something, maybe it was fan's like mentioned. How would I do that?
All I want is a solid .3-.4 drop than my previous times, and a couple mph. I run a good 1/8 mph, but the car seems not to pull through the 1/4 like it should (nothing noticable while driving). I ran 5 constistant 99 mph passes, and the usual mph I see out of a stocker is atleast 101.
HP obviously isn't cheap, and when I decide I want lots of it & have the money for it, then I might choose to do so. I don't plan on going 13.0, nor did I say that, and I don't think asking for a low 13 sec ET is much to ask when I run a 13.6 stock.
As for 60', I got a 2.0 and that's probably the potential out of a bone stock motor, factory converter, and tires. Not saying I haven't seen 1.9's, but that's probably in perfect conditions.
so... like i said.. i don't think i'm asking much.
The AFPR allows you to add fuel at WOT to match increased air flow by increasing fuel pressure.
Fuel flow increases as the SQRT of the pressure ratio increase, e.g. increase fuel pressure by 10% will increase fuel flow at WOT by ~5%. At part throttle the ECM will use the O2 sensor(s) data to maintain stoch A/F ratio.
you dont need to have the fans reprogrammed just because of the 160, but you do if you want it to keep cool
to do it you need someone to reflash the PCM or you can buy a Hypertech PP to do it yourself (its not good for much besides this and shift points in the A4)
The AFPR allows you to add fuel at WOT to match increased air flow by increasing fuel pressure.
Fuel flow increases as the SQRT of the pressure ratio increase, e.g. increase fuel pressure by 10% will increase fuel flow at WOT by ~5%. At part throttle the ECM will use the O2 sensor(s) data to maintain stoch A/F ratio.
:iagree:
With the 160 stat I didn't have to mess with the PCM to keep it cool, as it never breaks the 200 degree mark. The fans never really come on. (w/ A/C off)
Those programers will help the shift points and spark/fuel curves though... :thumbs:
That said: Best bang for the buck- NITROUS... Where else can you get an additional 150 hp(*) for $500?? It is easily hidden and when used properly will give you years of fun. A 100 shot will put the car in the 12's EASILY!!
-Jeb
(*)- I said 150 shot but wouldn't recommend a steady diet at that level on your stock cast pistons.