JrRifleCoach

So before I start hackin on this thing, what SHOULD I do, or NOT do? The spring is out. Between the chassis and the spring there is an aluminum shim about 3/16 thick plus almost an inch of rubber. Can I discard the shim? What tool is best to cut off the rubber? The end of the spring has a shoe that can take off another 1/2 inch of drop. Is it advisable to chop this off as well?

Lately it seems I had better ask the forum before jumping in with both feet.

Thanks, -JRC- :cheers:

oldace84

You know I've had the lowering kit from MAD, for over a year. But it seems to much trouble for 1/2". So it just sets on the shelve in my garage.
Maybe sometime.
Good Luck (had to correct mispells).
tony
:cool:


[Modified by oldace84, 7:10 PM 2/23/2004]


[Modified by oldace84, 7:11 PM 2/23/2004]

TIMSPEED

drop that badboy! :cool:

AGENT 86

I left the end pads on :smash:
That pad is the first line of defence against road noise and harshness to the spring. :eek:
Look on the bottom of cross member where spring pad rests. Mine had a 5/16" recess there. I used that knowledge and removed enough of my spring pad to leave a 1/8" gap between the spring and the crossmember when installed with shim.
Others have totally removed the pad and put a thin layer of plastic on the spring. :eek:
I didn't feel comfortable with that plan either.
Good Luck Steve
If you have any q's please email me. I have some pics :cheers:

Motorworx

Don't remove the spring pads for the lower control arm. Mine was done like this (in addition to the cross member mount) and I ended up with a cracked spring.

DieL

took out the shims, chopped the rubbers. Poly bushings throughout the car. the feel' is incredible. Couldnt be happier the way it handles and looks.

tuband

Keep the shim to put on the OTHER side of the spring support. That way you will be bolting everything together without worrying about running too far up on the threads. The shim becomes an outside spacer instead of next to the spring.

I used a hacksaw and carefully cut the rubber off. It is difficult to keep the blade in a straight line, but if you can brace the spring from moving, it can be done. DO NOT allow your blade to get into the spring (for obvious reasons).

I would advise against cutting the "shoes" at the ends of the spring since that it is a contact point on the spring. I've heard of others doing this successfully but I would be concerned about unusual wear on the spring at those points of contact. That's the main reason for the rubber bumpers.

When you glue the wedges onto the spring, let everything set for at least 24 hours before reassembling. Use sparingly some chassic lubricant where the wedges contact the frame as well as on the tip ends where contact is made to the frame.

While you won't notice a dramatic difference in the front end drop, it is there plus it makes the rear drop a whole lot better. I've had mine on Road Atlanta and even with stock springing & shocks, the handling is noticeably improved from the original. You will like the change.