When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i took the front calipers off (rears are still connected), and replaced the seals and boots, also im replacing the pads on all 4 calipers. My fluid is really old and dirty so im definetly goin to bleed all the lines and fill with new fluid. I have a 96, my question do i have to bleed the ABS modulator? if so, is it the same concept of a caliper, dissconnect a bleeder screw and pass fluid through the system? when and how do i do it? any feedback will help thanks alot! :cheers:
Some say you do, but I didn't and had no problems. I had a rear line bust and had no fluid in the rear resovoir by the time I got home. When I bled the line, I used a bleeder pump from craftsman to do it and it pulled the fluid through the abs module. If you're not sure, buy the pump, bleed the brakes and it should be at least enough to go to a shop and have them finish it. I was going to do that, but the pedal's super stiff, so it didn't need it.
I did a "flush" last summer without touching the ABS unit, and did not have any problems. I didn't do a true flush since all I did was keep bleeding the system until clear fluid came out at all ends.
I also first used a vacuum pump, but did not have good results with it. It kept sucking air through the nipple threads. Ended up dragging the wife in the garage to do it the old fashioned way.
This time I bought some Speed Bleeders which I will be installing this weekend. Other forum members swear by them.
The speed bleeders work well, except you can't pull fluid through the abs module without a pump if the module ran dry. If there's fluid in the module, a flush, like you did by bleeding till you get clear fluid would be fine. But if there's air before the abs module, it's not going to get all of the air out.
I ran the speed bleeders on my 86, and they worked great, but with the pump, i'm not going to bother installing them on my 88. The craftsman pump came with a tube of silicone sealant to use on different parts of the setup. I put a touch on the fitting going to the brake line and didn't have any issues with air leaking. You can test it by leaving the bleeder screw closed and mounting the pump. If you pump it, it should hold vacuum on the guage. I had a plastic cheapy one from autozone and it didn't work nearly as well as the nicer one from sears. The plastic one leaked from where the fitting was on the bleeder screw after the first time I used it.
Either way, if you bleed it the old fashioned way, you should be able to get it good enough to bring to a shop to have them flush and fill the brake system.
I also first used a vacuum pump, but did not have good results with it. It kept sucking air through the nipple threads. Ended up dragging the wife in the garage to do it the old fashioned way.
This time I bought some Speed Bleeders which I will be installing this weekend. Other forum members swear by them.
I prefer the mash on the brake poedel method of flushing the brakes to avacuum widgit. The faster you move the fluid through the lines and cylinders, the more crud you wash out.
When you want to clean your driveway, do you just gently run water over it (vacuum bleeder) or shoot it whith max pressure from your hose (500 lb gorilla pushing on brake pedal).
The problem with mashing the brake pedal down is that it still doesn't pull the air through the abs module. Even the gm shop manual says this. I'm not saying you can't bleed brakes using the brake pedal, but if there's a lot of air early in the system, simply mashing down on the pedal's not going to get it out. The vacuum bleeder pulls 25-40psi, which is more than enough to suck dirty fluid out of the system. For the old systems w/o abs, its no big deal and the old way works fine. And as long as you don't let air get above the abs module, it also works fine.
Chris
I’m lazy so I just do the old gravity method. Attach a hose to all 4 bleeders and open them up. Crack a beer, grab a lawn chair and relax. If you’re really good, you can get your wife to top off the reservoir occasionally, that way you don’t have to get out of the chair. :D
From: I'm the walkin dude I can see all of the world...
St. Jude Donor '03
Re: Brake Bleeding (87SAM)
IÂ’m lazy so I just do the old gravity method. Attach a hose to all 4 bleeders and open them up. Crack a beer, grab a lawn chair and relax. If youÂ’re really good, you can get your wife to top off the reservoir occasionally, that way you donÂ’t have to get out of the chair. :D
IÂ’m lazy so I just do the old gravity method. Attach a hose to all 4 bleeders and open them up. Crack a beer, grab a lawn chair and relax. If youÂ’re really good, you can get your wife to top off the reservoir occasionally, that way you donÂ’t have to get out of the chair. :D
[Modified by 87SAM, 7:41 AM 3/26/2004]
I like this method :thumbs:
How many beers using this method :jester
My '87 has ABS and I just put new stainless steel lines on all four. I didn't do anything different than on standard brakes as far as bleeding and they work fine. Whether your ABS system is different than mine or if it would make a difference anyway, I don't know.
The problem with mashing the brake pedal down is that it still doesn't pull the air through the abs module. Even the gm shop manual says this. I'm not saying you can't bleed brakes using the brake pedal, but if there's a lot of air early in the system, simply mashing down on the pedal's not going to get it out. The vacuum bleeder pulls 25-40psi, which is more than enough to suck dirty fluid out of the system. For the old systems w/o abs, its no big deal and the old way works fine. And as long as you don't let air get above the abs module, it also works fine.
Chris
A Vacuum bleeder It doesn't "pull" 25-40 psi if you live on the planet Earth. What color is your sky.